npp
Part of things
Posts: 121
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Aug 31, 2019 13:39:05 GMT
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- nothing worse than going to a trade counter and attempting to describe something that you need that you don't know the name or brand of - oh yes - in particular if English isn't your first language and you've only started tinkering with cars as a result of buying a Lotus late in your midlife crisis ...
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Have you moped over the lights they look very nice and shiny compared to the before pictures?
Very nice finish over all compared to factory.
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Sept 1, 2019 11:19:27 GMT
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Have you moped over the lights they look very nice and shiny compared to the before pictures? Very nice finish over all compared to factory. Pete - Not done the lights yet but I will be doing them - it only takes a few mins to bring them up - I have the roof & tailgate which are still in original paint to go over has well just to put some shine back into them
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Sept 1, 2019 19:44:46 GMT
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Straight answer... always. Grumpy bloke, in his words yes, in everyone's eyes who has met him and asked him decent questions... never.
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Chris - thanks the latest updates, I always enjoy your projects. The TT is particularly interesting as it would be considered modern by a lot of folk on here but as you say, is a fast appreciating classic. Although not to everyone's taste (including my own when new), the design and build techniques were quite revolutionary. The repairs are also very useful and can be applied by a lot of people to their more daily runners, such as the bumper cone repairs and sills. I have a question for you as I appreciate your advice but apologies it isn't really related to your current projects. I have searched RR and Google but got a whole range of answers. I want to know what you would recommend for painting suspension components and ancillary parts in the dirty underside areas of a car. Quite a few forums still love things like Hammerite or POR 15 but others suggest Epoxy Mastic and even marine paints. Some say to use primer and some not. Some say single coat, others not. This question is for my old VW Scirocco i'm rebuilding but relates to a thread i started questioning how modern cars deteriorate in different ways to old cars. A lot of modern cars still have good bodywork and mechanicals 10 years old, but then have very rusty suspension and brackets and make repairs very difficult. More expensive models such as the TT have alloy suspension parts. It all makes it interesting to adapt restoration techniques and repairs. Anyway, thanks for your time reading this and appreciate any advice. Personally I would not recommend Epoxy Mastics or POR 15 for your task - these set to a hard surface / shell finish (has does Hammerite) - when impacted by stone chips or debris the surface cracks allowing water to enter - the surface coating then acts has a capillary and the water travels under the paint surface and the rust issues continue. I would clean up / degrease the components and remove any loose rust has you can through abrasion / wire brush etc (I am assuming most of the components are still affixed to the car / not loose and you don't have access to a blasting cabinet) - I would treat with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/hydrate-80 Once dry you need to paint it with a suitable surface coating - Frosts Chassis Black is very good - available in either gloss or satin and either by the can or in aerosol format (unfortunately their website was down so I cant paste the links) - Frosts products are not cheap but they are good Many thanks Chris, you have confirmed what i was suspecting regarding chipping and water getting underneath. I know first hand this is what Hammerite does and can't believe so many folk on other forums still rave about it. I know it was good but like so many things these days, the receipe seems to have changed. I know Bilt Hamber well and have looked at Frost alot but never purchased from them. All the components will be blasted so thing will be a little easier. Thanks again,, Matt
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Sept 2, 2019 12:45:18 GMT
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I believe that the 'proper' hammerite was based on fine glass flakes suspended in a resin containing (I think) arsenic or some other poison. It was very good. Of course health & safety killed that off.
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Sept 2, 2019 20:02:30 GMT
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So with the paintwork largely complete I needed to do something with these Has they have had a very hard life & now look completely out of place with the car but they took some getting off - the wheel studs had been tightened beyond belief - I had a 900mm breaker bar with 1800mm scaffold tube half way down it and it took me to put all my weight and spring board it before they the studs would let go Gave them a good scrub & wash off before running them over to my tyre fitter to break the front face rim beads on the tyres I quite often revert to using plastic spacers to keep the edge of the tyre off the rim so it allows access to clean the wheel rim up & paint it Quite a lot of prep later Ready for primer first thing in the morning - I should be able to get them into colour basecoat & clearcoat by tomorrow evening I hate doing alloys to be honest - they are painful to get right and very time consuming - especially when they are has grotty has this set was More tomorrow
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Last Edit: Sept 2, 2019 20:03:09 GMT by Deleted
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,842
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Sept 2, 2019 21:54:25 GMT
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Have you seen the bin bag method for masking tyres? It's a lot less time consuming than masking tape.
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Have you seen the bin bag method for masking tyres? It's a lot less time consuming than masking tape. Yep but does not like the DA sander when accidently caught which then wraps its self into the spindle of the sander - you also have to be very careful with some plastics - some contain silicone release agents that then contaminate the paint - last thing that you need
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Have you seen the bin bag method for masking tyres? It's a lot less time consuming than masking tape. Yep but does not like the DA sander when accidently caught which then wraps its self into the spindle of the sander - you also have to be very careful with some plastics - some contain silicone release agents that then contaminate the paint - last thing that you need Everyday is a very enjoyable schoolday on this thread!
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Can I be vulgar?
Tell me to jog on if you wish, I understand it’s between you and the customer and lots of variables involved but what’s a good ball park figure for this kind of work?
It’s something I’ve got in mind for my rover but with it not being roadworthy yet it’s hard to get a rough estimate from places, even then it’s hard to know a good price from a bad price.
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With the fixings being that tight I’d be checking very carefully round the seats for cracking, seen a wheel sheared off before leaving the centre and bolts behind , not pretty, but with the quality of your work you’ll have already thought of that👍
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Can I be vulgar? Tell me to jog on if you wish, I understand it’s between you and the customer and lots of variables involved but what’s a good ball park figure for this kind of work? It’s something I’ve got in mind for my rover but with it not being roadworthy yet it’s hard to get a rough estimate from places, even then it’s hard to know a good price from a bad price. Not at all but for what - just the wheels or the complete job ?
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This is then a rough guide and it all depends upon the amount of damage on the car - any rust rectification etc - I have not painted the roof or the tailgate either on this one they have just had a polish and a touch in of any minor stone chips - wheels wise you can get alloys done by a specialist if needed - some bodyshops will do them but a lot don't want to touch them - Its all quite subjective and it depends upon where you go - you can get a quick blowover done in the lower end of the market for £1k + - this is not my market and I personally & politely turn this type of work away - at the other end of the spectrum other places are going to quote premium pricing - think £5k + in the middle of those prices you should be able to source a good reliable bodyshop that return a good honest job for sensible money - probably £2.5k - £4k - I'm in different park from the vast majority of bodyshops - my overheads are minimal due to my home based workshop therefore I can maintain prices towards the lower end of the £2.5 - £4k range quoted - but quality costs money and the amount of car owners out there that have no idea of the time & commitment involved in producing good quality work but think that £1500 is expensive for a repaint is unreal and I for one would be very cautious about what you were getting for your £1500
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Last Edit: Sept 3, 2019 9:57:14 GMT by Deleted
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Sept 3, 2019 19:44:47 GMT
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Wheels put into primer Guide coated Then flatted, base coated & clear coated Wheels back on the car - just some minor odds to sort now, wheel nuts to torque & a quick valet prior to collection tomorrow
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Last Edit: Sept 3, 2019 19:46:04 GMT by Deleted
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This is then a rough guide and it all depends upon the amount of damage on the car - any rust rectification etc - I have not painted the roof or the tailgate either on this one they have just had a polish and a touch in of any minor stone chips - wheels wise you can get alloys done by a specialist if needed - some bodyshops will do them but a lot don't want to touch them - Its all quite subjective and it depends upon where you go - you can get a quick blowover done in the lower end of the market for £1k + - this is not my market and I personally & politely turn this type of work away - at the other end of the spectrum other places are going to quote premium pricing - think £5k + in the middle of those prices you should be able to source a good reliable bodyshop that return a good honest job for sensible money - probably £2.5k - £4k - I'm in different park from the vast majority of bodyshops - my overheads are minimal due to my home based workshop therefore I can maintain prices towards the lower end of the £2.5 - £4k range quoted - but quality costs money and the amount of car owners out there that have no idea of the time & commitment involved in producing good quality work but think that £1500 is expensive for a repaint is unreal and I for one would be very cautious about what you were getting for your £1500 Thankyou for the reply, very honest and gives me food for thought that’s for sure.
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Sept 4, 2019 12:27:48 GMT
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quality costs money and the amount of car owners out there that have no idea of the time & commitment involved in producing good quality work but think that £1500 is expensive for a repaint is unreal and I for one would be very cautious about what you were getting for your £1500 bob on. although you could also argue that paying for a cheap respray guarantees you a cheap respray, but paying top money doesn't necessarily get you quality job comment is in complete isolation from flat cap industries, obviously
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2019 12:28:20 GMT by darrenh
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Sept 4, 2019 13:57:03 GMT
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I love your work Chris but I struggle so see, even at your fantastically sensible price, how Mr TT is going to get that money back on the sale? Or is it a keeper and therefore not looking for profit? I thought TT's were at an all time low?
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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