Help, I've got a trapped/stuck bolt

[HoTWire]

So I'm currently trying to replace the rear shocks on my Porsche. I've got a bit of an issue though, most of it has come apart relatively easily, but the bolt through the lower control arm doesn't want to move, it has come out a certain amount with a bit of hammer and drift action, but now seems very stuck. There isn't much space to get tools in... Any ideas?

Suspension as it sits




The "nut" side (the side I've been pushing from)


The greenish bit is the lovely clean bolt and how far out it is. Has another half inch to go


Also worthy of note, it is possible to rotate the bolt, so it isn't stuck fast...

[stealthstylz]

Are you're sure the punch you're using isn't bottoming out on the hole so it's not actually pushing on the bolt?

Once they get to that point I usually use a open ended spanner that will fit over the shank of the bolt (but smaller than the bolt head) then use that as a drift on the underneath of the bolt head

[welshpug]

do you have both sides jacked up? I see an ARB there, might be placing tension on stuff, or might it be the strut placing stuff under tension?

[colnerov]

Hi, That looks like it has still got a side load on it and that far out it should be released enough to be removed. As said you need to take that load off either by making sure it's jacked level so it's not the ARB. Or that the strut is not still loaded or is turned.

Colin

[carat 3.6]

As the others have said it's probably got a load holding it, if not use an impact hammer to push it out.

[Darkspeed]

ARB looks disconnected - with no spring compressors on the strut chances are it will still against the spring or do you have the jack just acting against the bottom of the strut (spring unit) alone.

[HoTWire]

Thanks for the feedback folks.

Yeah the ARB is disconnected, although that isn't clear in those pictures and I should have mentioned it. The top mount is also disconnected.

I've tried jacking up the knuckle at the bottom of the strut in isolation to change angles a bit, but it is lifting the whole of the suspension with it.

The problem really seems to be one of access and space. I'm glad actually the suggestions so far have been things I've tried, or had to rule out due to space, makes me feel a bit less stupid.

The spring shouldn't be loaded... but I could put the spring compressors on with it in the car and see if there is still some load going through.

[Darkspeed]

If the strut is loose at the top - gap between it and the body - then it just sounds like a little corrosion making the bolt stick a bit reluctant. Just keep turning.

[xbl]

Has the screw got enough room to pass the lower wishbone? It looks like it's travelled as far as it'll go unless you drop the balljoint and move the lower arm down.

[droopsnoot]

In the first photo, the exposed part of the casting for the wishbone looks as if it's threaded. It seems unlikely, but could it be that the bolt needs to be unscrewed to get it past this part? (I'm sure you'd have noticed that if turning it seemed to be extracting it.)

[HoTWire]

I tried unscrewing, just in case, but that isn't it.. Is how I found that it will turn. I wondered if there was some kind of sheering force at work from the control arm wanting to go one way and the suspension wanting to go the other, but I don't seem to be able to move them independently to find that out (which in itself may be part of what is trapping the bolt). Every article and video on this job says this bolt is hard to get out, but NOT A SINGLE ONE shows how they managed it!!

[Deleted]

Any bludgeoning needed to get it as far as you did? Not that maybe the end you were knocking with a drift of some sort is a bit mushroomed over now? Can you push it back in again,or is it now stubborn in both directions?

[HoTWire]

Negatives:
Slightly flattened start of thread, not sure best way to fix that, cut it away?
Now the strut central top mount bolt doesnt want to come loose.

Positives:
I did it!!!
Other side will be easier.

Ended up using spring compressors to give me that extra bit of wiggle room. None of the online guides say to use them, and all say that bolt is hard and to use a pry bar to remove the strut mounting from its position. Found 911uk.com and asked in there, suggested spring compressors at the stage that the strut is on the car as this bolt is easier and no need.for pry bars (which is true, little tap with a hammer and it was all easy enough to remove by hand)

I've partially remounted the strut now as the central top mount on the shock just didn't want to come loose on the bench. However even in place and using some ugga dugga power I've not been able to get it moving

[xbl]

Run a door but down the thread and it'll remove the burr.