Old paint new paint help needed

[retromadness123]

Hello guys got my self a issue I'm hoping someone can help me resolve I had some rust on a arch I repaired but after respraying the arch I am now left with a line that's you can now see the old and new paint, I'm now wondering what's the best way to resolve this and was there or is there a way to get rid of the new paint old paint line without respraying a whole panel all help is greatly appricated in advance thanks

[Rich]

You need to paint more of the panel to a point where a blend will be minimal. Also, the colour match isn’t good enough to blend if the photo is a true to life comparison of the colour.

[Deleted]

That looks like a silver to me - you are not going to blend any metallic up to line like that - has already stated you need to cover more of the panel - its called blending in - only real way to do it is to prep the entire panel with a fine scotchbrite and a flatting paste - mask up blend / fade the basecoat out over the panel and once the basecoat is dry paint the entire panel in a clear coat - you can fade out / blend clearcoats too but I would not recommend it to a beginner or someone new to automotive paint application

[okp]

Silver is a horrible colour to match. Personally I'd scotch the whole panel, fade it out and steer clear of going edge to edge to adjacent panels. And clearcoat upto the nearest swage line I can soft edge mask off.
If you're not competent, just find a smart repair company to come save you

[retromadness123]

Thanks guys so it's best to do a whole panel , I have done while panels before without issues but this only had a couple rust spots on the arch so thought il keep the painting to minimum but it's clearly made it worse off, the picture I uploaded is how the paint is I did give the paint company the code for the car so thought it could been the old paint has faded over the years but it does look different

[okp]

No, don't paint the whole panel, then you'll end up with a whole panel darker and it will be more obvious when its edge to edge, just flick the paint out further to fade it out.
Yiu want it to softly fade into the existing paint. Then there is no obvious hard line of colour difference.

Then clear a larger area and take it to where you can lose it, a hard sewage line, or if there isn't one blend it and buff it back.

[chris y]

Exactly what people said.

I did exactly this last week and I'm an amateur.

I did some rust repair on my astro silver Carlton wheelarches (my own fault because I put new arches on it 9 years ago just to get one more MOT and didnt bother with stonechip or any other protection).

I did my repair, then flatted the whole panel with 2000 wet and dry (used wet), then scotchbrite over it and over the swage line I planned to laquer to.
I painted with the silver base, obviously full coverage in the repaired area and fading to nothing half way up the panel, then when the basecoat was touch dry laid on 2k laquer.
I put masking tape with its edge lifted at the top of the swage line so no hard edge, once dry some wet and dry work at the swage line made that disappear.
It was a quick tidy up job but worked out better than expected, I wished I'd spent more time on prep after seeing how the paint finished up.

[retromadness123]

Sept 24, 2019 18:32:52 GMT chris y said:

Exactly what people said.

I did exactly this last week and I'm an amateur.

I did some rust repair on my astro silver Carlton wheelarches (my own fault because I put new arches on it 9 years ago just to get one more MOT and didnt bother with stonechip or any other protection).

I did my repair, then flatted the whole panel with 2000 wet and dry (used wet), then scotchbrite over it and over the swage line I planned to laquer to.
I painted with the silver base, obviously full coverage in the repaired area and fading to nothing half way up the panel, then when the basecoat was touch dry laid on 2k laquer.
I put masking tape with its edge lifted at the top of the swage line so no hard edge, once dry some wet and dry work at the swage line made that disappear.
It was a quick tidy up job but worked out better than expected, I wished I'd spent more time on prep after seeing how the paint finished up.

Thanks so do Laqure the whole panel or just the part that was basecoated, then cut the orange peel ?

[retromadness123]

Unfortunately I Laqure the painted part before I asked the question on here, so with it being Laqure and orange peel removed what would be the best way to tackle this, I'm thinking the following

2000 grit the panel

Use the very fine grey scotch brite over it

Soft mask the swedge line and apply the base coat blending in to swedge line

Apply the Laqure

Then use some fine grit to work on orange peel if any

Use some compound And do the whole panel

Hope I got this right, I'm still a learner so if I got it wrong just give me your in put lol thanks guys always appriciate the help and advice given

[Deleted]

Sept 25, 2019 7:53:12 GMT retromadness123 said:

Unfortunately I Laqure the painted part before I asked the question on here, so with it being Laqure and orange peel removed what would be the best way to tackle this, I'm thinking the following

2000 grit the panel

Use the very fine grey scotch brite over it

Soft mask the swedge line and apply the base coat blending in to swedge line

Apply the Laqure

Then use some fine grit to work on orange peel if any

Use some compound And do the whole panel

Hope I got this right, I'm still a learner so if I got it wrong just give me your in put lol thanks guys always appriciate the help and advice given

Hang on tight until this evening and I will dig some pics out of how to blend in on a step by step process

[retromadness123]

Sept 25, 2019 13:38:24 GMT @grumpynorthener said:

Sept 25, 2019 7:53:12 GMT retromadness123 said:

Unfortunately I Laqure the painted part before I asked the question on here, so with it being Laqure and orange peel removed what would be the best way to tackle this, I'm thinking the following

2000 grit the panel

Use the very fine grey scotch brite over it

Soft mask the swedge line and apply the base coat blending in to swedge line

Apply the Laqure

Then use some fine grit to work on orange peel if any

Use some compound And do the whole panel

Hope I got this right, I'm still a learner so if I got it wrong just give me your in put lol thanks guys always appriciate the help and advice given

Hang on tight until this evening and I will dig some pics out of how to blend in on a step by step process

Thanks that would be much appreciated

[chris y]

What you wrote would almost work.
At the base coat stage only go a little further than enough to cover the area that is the wrong colour with full coverage.
Your base coat will fade to nothing over the few inches beside that.
Keep well back from the swage line.
laquer to the swage line.

You will have the old colour at one side, the new colour at the other, and in between it will fade from one to the other. When you bury this in some laquer it'll disappear, unless the colour match is bad, in which case it'll fade from one colour to another which you may be able to see, but much less than with a hard edge.

Having said all that what Grumpy will post should be more helpful than words.

[Deleted]

Firstly colour matching - Whilst you may well have used the colour code from the vehicle being painted for having your paint mixed there is no guarantee that this will be a direct match - the chances are that they will be several variants / shades of the same colour so its always best to either take the vehicle with you or a small painted area of the bodywork (towing eye cover on the bumper or a painted trim) and ask the automotive paint supplier to match to the sample - metallic / pearlescent paints can be difficult to match directly on a panel to panel basis or when locally painting a repair on a larger panel



In the pic is a rear wing & rear door being painted with a basecoat colour - I had to paint the entire door due to the size of the repair area on it - I have already prepped the adjacent front door panel but for ease have kept it masked whilst I get the colour built up on the repaired panels



Masking removed and even before the clearcoat is applied you can see the shading difference between the fresh paint & the original - with the front door having more yellow green hue to it



Basecoat colour blended on to the front door - for a indication how the basecoat is applied look at the masking tape at the top of the door skin - you need the basecoat to match the adjacent panel then gradually fade the paint out to just beyond the mid point of the panel - getting lighter with the paint the further into the panel you go - with a fine mist has you blend out - do not be tempted to go too far down the panel with the basecoat - if there is not enough room on your panel to blend the basecoat out before the swage line you will have prep the entire panel



Lacquer / clearcoat applied then flatted & polished - net result is no visible colour difference between the panels - Note - that you can effect the shade of the paint that you are applying with technique alone - apply the paint heavy and it will be darker in shade - apply it light and will be lighter in shade - trick is to apply several even coats to build the paint coverage up on the panel - post up any further issues that you may have or if they is anything that you don't understand and I will do my best to reply promptly

[retromadness123]

Sept 25, 2019 20:30:53 GMT @grumpynorthener said:

Firstly colour matching - Whilst you may well have used the colour code from the vehicle being painted for having your paint mixed there is no guarantee that this will be a direct match - the chances are that they will be several variants / shades of the same colour so its always best to either take the vehicle with you or a small painted area of the bodywork (towing eye cover on the bumper or a painted trim) and ask the automotive paint supplier to match to the sample - metallic / pearlescent paints can be difficult to match directly on a panel to panel basis or when locally painting a repair on a larger panel



In the pic is a rear wing & rear door being painted with a basecoat colour - I had to paint the entire door due to the size of the repair area on it - I have already prepped the adjacent front door panel but for ease have kept it masked whilst I get the colour built up on the repaired panels



Masking removed and even before the clearcoat is applied you can see the shading difference between the fresh paint & the original - with the front door having more yellow green hue to it



Basecoat colour blended on to the front door - for a indication how the basecoat is applied look at the masking tape at the top of the door skin - you need the basecoat to match the adjacent panel then gradually fade the paint out to just beyond the mid point of the panel - getting lighter with the paint the further into the panel you go - with a fine mist has you blend out - do not be tempted to go too far down the panel with the basecoat - if there is not enough room on your panel to blend the basecoat out before the swage line you will have prep the entire panel



Lacquer / clearcoat applied then flatted & polished - net result is no visible colour difference between the panels - Note - that you can effect the shade of the paint that you are applying with technique alone - apply the paint heavy and it will be darker in shade - apply it light and will be lighter in shade - trick is to apply several even coats to build the paint coverage up on the panel - post up any further issues that you may have or if they is anything that you don't understand and I will do my best to reply promptly

Thanks for that great work and lovely write up, couple of questions

Did you 2000 grit wet/dry the entire front door and is it nessary to very fine gritt scotch brite the panel after the the wet/dry process.

I had a chance to see the rear quarter of my one and I can't really see a visable swedge line on it so in this case would I need to lightly fade out the paint as I go up the panel

Thank you again

[chris y]

The 2000 then scotchbrite was just my way of providing a key and getting the old surface flat. I'm an amateur though.
From what I've read different people have different preferences for this kind of thing, it's not set in stone.

Grumpy is clearly better than me so I'd follow his guidance, I'll be reading for future reference myself, always willing to learn from someone who can show you results.

[Deleted]

For prepping the front door prior to paint I just panel wiped the area first to remove any waxes / tar spots etc - I then use a fine scotchbrite with something called a flatting paste which is done sparingly with water - you wont have flatting paste so just use a fine scotchbrite - these tend be colour coded so you need the grey one has a minimum - ultra fine is a brownish gold in colour - the panel needs to be consistently keyed / flat / dull in appearance when done - any difficult spots can be done with 2000 wet and dry carefully - if you have no swage line or its a difficult heavily rounded swage it would easier to prep & paint the entire panel - once prepped & masked I would always panel wipe the panel again prior to a wipe over with a tac rag before the paint goes on - hope it all goes ok - post up the results of your efforts when you get the chance - good or bad it gives other readers the opportunity to learn / view the failings & glory's of what we get up to and from that we can all learn