cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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Feb 17, 2020 21:26:33 GMT
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Anyone else struggle getting oil seals out? I was told by many the rear gear box seal on the Capri is a two min job... so far its a 2 day job for me!!! had to give up today. I was told you can flick it out with a screw driver from the back. i can feel the screw driver getting behind it but no luck. I tried hitting it up away from the edge but stopped doing that as i was worried about the gear box.
Thinking of drilling into the metal part of the seal and trying to screw something into it. If not i might just try and destroy one part of it with a drill . Any ideas?
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Feb 17, 2020 21:37:44 GMT
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No specific advise...but even the ‘easiest’ of jobs are often more of a pain than most people like to admit 😉
I ended up destroying a perfectly good gear lever the other day when trying to fit a quickshift kit...if the internet is to believed, it should have take 5mins ...but not for me. Ended up buying a new gear lever!
Psssst- people also lie a LOT about how much money they spend on stuff haha
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Feb 17, 2020 21:44:32 GMT
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It should pry out easily with a hooked tool. If that doesn't work for you, screw in large self-tapping screws about 60° apart, and gently ease each out with some mole-grips. Screw them in by hand so you don't damage the face behind the seal.
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Feb 17, 2020 23:30:42 GMT
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I took the gearbox rear seal out of the type 5 on my Scimitar without taking the gearbox out by hammering a couple of soft metal tent peg tips into L shapes and hooking them behind the seal's metal, then tapping them out with a hammer on the hook ends. Came out. Nice and easy. Didnt damage the gearbox housing because tent pegs are soft/less dense. The tip was more L shaped when I started. A 90° bend. The pic is after I'd removed it. I cut/pulled away the seal's plastic because that was making it difficult to get behind the seal. I personally found this a lot easier than screwing in to the seal, which didnt work for me because the front most part of the seal (as you view it) is relatively malleable plastic and the back end of he seal has metal embedded in it, and that's the bit you have to get moving. I found it was very difficult to get to the important part with the rest of the seal in the way. Like you I'd struggled for a while with all the other methods people suggested before I invented my own. But the other ways were 100x harder because there is just no room under a Scimitar SE5a for getting the seal out. I'm not saying they were bad ideas, just not suitable for this particular situation Probably more room under a Capri I imagine.
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Last Edit: Feb 18, 2020 0:39:01 GMT by Deleted
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Psssst- people also lie a LOT about how much money they spend on stuff haha So true. People lie a lot about all kinds of things to make them look a lot better than they are.
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,588
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Feb 18, 2020 12:45:29 GMT
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Man that was stuck in there! i don't know who these people are who are just flicking these out with screw drivers. Untill i made the hole in the bottom and got the screwdriver inside the seal, it didnt move. My next issue is drifting this in with a socket and mallet under a lowered car. Even though the back is jacked up I'm laying on my back with my arms behind my head. Any tools i can borrow maybe for this?
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Feb 18, 2020 12:52:05 GMT
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My next issue is drifting this in with a socket and mallet under a lowered car. Even though the back is jacked up I'm laying on my back with my arms behind my head. Any tools i can borrow maybe for this? I found a length of the right diameter pipe was better than a socket. I used an 8" length of plastic plumbing pipe because it was easier to tap it in from 8" away than right up close due to the spaces I was working in. Then once it's home, a good tap round the rim with a flat headed 'punch' style item to make sure it's bedded all the way back, all the way around.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,984
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Feb 19, 2020 10:00:44 GMT
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I've been fighting a similar stubborn little curse word on my Saab 900 a few years ago, also took me the best part of two days rather than five minutes. Installing the new one was very rewarding though, and only took an actual 5 mins. Tip: buy the best quality replacement seal you can find so you won't have to deal with this again any time soon.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Feb 19, 2020 11:52:15 GMT
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I've done them before by just working around with a small hammer and punch tapping them in a little bit at a time.
If you haven't put the seal in yet it might be worth sliding the prop in to see how worn the bush is if it is badly worn the seal won't last long.
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