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Sept 13, 2021 16:35:45 GMT
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I have bought another compressor, a 1975 broomwade One of the main reasons for buying it is it had this pressure switch, which will be handy for my hydrovane if I can't get this broomwade working It was originaly 3 phase but had the motor swapped for this single phase one The air link pipe is missing, I assume it goes from here To here? It has 2 valves on this block. Any idea why 2? A safety I'd guess, and maybe a pressure relief? But triggered by what? Main air outlet presumably from the pcl connector on the front, but why this tap on the side? Lastly, this extra hole in the head. Air outlet to pressure switch? Just somewhere to mount a switch? Where should the pressure switch connect? It rather nicely has it's cylinder test certs up to 1982 It's original sales brochure and paperwork for the new single phase motor A note of the use its had And the operating manual Surprisingly all this paperwork doesn't shed much light on my questions of what goes where! I'll clean it up and the pump will be stripped and checked before I fire it up. Apart from the connection questions, the last things are... How likely is this tank to kill me when it has 150psi in it? Do i paint it or not! More pics will be posted as things progress.
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 16:37:16 GMT by VW
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Sept 13, 2021 16:45:59 GMT
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Oh, and i have the original air filter Although I've read somewhere bigger air filters are better and even motorcycle silencers can be fitted to quieten compressors down.... Eyes gsxr1100 exhaust in scrap pile Pump label Receiver label Unsurprisingly the vent is on the bottom
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Sept 13, 2021 16:47:59 GMT
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Might need new belts! Got to love some stenceling
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Sept 13, 2021 16:50:37 GMT
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£2300 New in today's money!
I realise this is probably just an old compressor to alot of folk on here, the kind they were glad to see the back of when replaced for modern gear, but for some reason I'm more excited by this thing than I should be 😂
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93fxdl
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Sept 13, 2021 16:59:20 GMT
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First thing to do is remove the large bungs in the side of the receiver, so you can inspect the inside for rust. The valve at the bottom is for draining moisture from the receiver. The line from compressor to receiver would probably have fins to cool the air. Often industrial compressors are set up with multiple outlets to serve different needs Ttfn Glenn
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v8ian
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Sept 13, 2021 17:04:05 GMT
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I had one a few years ago, converted oil into oil mist, totally knacked, so it Evolved
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Sept 13, 2021 17:09:17 GMT
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I had one a few years ago, converted oil into oil mist, totally knacked, so it Evolved In what was was it knackered? Just wondering what to look out for. This seems to have not done much work though, andnthenlinknpipe was missing so he could drop oil in it and turn it over to stop it seizing. It's been in his family from new and he always ment to put it back together but never got round to it. It's basically just how you want to buy a classic car, unfortunately it's a compressor though 😂 Do you remember how it all links up? Edit, I guess there are only 3 real points of failure, big/small end knock causing noise, rings/bore meaning low pressure, or valve sealing meaning it produces oil mist?
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 17:15:37 GMT by VW
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Sept 13, 2021 17:11:41 GMT
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First thing to do is remove the large bungs in the side of the receiver, so you can inspect the inside for rust. The valve at the bottom is for draining moisture from the receiver. The line from compressor to receiver would probably have fins to cool the air. Often industrial compressors are set up with multiple outlets to serve different needs Ttfn Glenn Finned! I don't think this one was, he said it was just a pipe and now of the (admittedly different) ones in the litterature have finned pipes (i don't think, ill check) So the side tap was probably just to also send air to somewhere else, that solves that. Looking at slightly different ones I think the connector on top of the pump goes to the pressure switch. I'll get those bungs out and have a look. I don't expect it to be shiny, so what am I looking for? Pitting I guess? Hopefully it will either look fine, or look terrible. That way the decision will be easy and I don't have to worry about if it's ok or not. I guess I could get it tested, but I assume they will just say it's no good purely as it's 46 years old!
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 17:13:48 GMT by VW
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93fxdl
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Sept 13, 2021 17:50:51 GMT
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Pitting is what you are looking for, just the bottom really as that's where the water sits. If there is a port into the cylinder head, this may be a compressor where, the motor runs continuously and the intake valve is held open once pressure is reached, to reduce the load Ttfn Glenn
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Sept 13, 2021 18:57:28 GMT
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Pitting is what you are looking for, just the bottom really as that's where the water sits. If there is a port into the cylinder head, this may be a compressor where, the motor runs continuously and the intake valve is held open once pressure is reached, to reduce the load Ttfn Glenn I'll read the manual, I'm sure it says something like that can be fitted, or it can be fitted with a pressure switch.
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Sept 13, 2021 19:07:24 GMT
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I have been poking and proding this. Washed the majority of the loose stuff off and dragged it into the workshop.
Took the bungs out the tank. It's a bit surface rusty, apart from the bottom, which was a bit wet with some accumulated flakeyness. Hovered it out and I'm pretty sure the wetness is oily.
It looks about how I'd expect the inside to look to be honest. I scraped the tank wall in an area i could see and the surface rust doesnt seem to have pitted anything.
I think I'll get it down to a bare receiver, seal off all the holes, and swill it out with water based degreaser.
I might then put some chain in in and roll it round the garden for a few hours (wish I hadn't sold my cement mixer!). See if that cleans it well enough to inspect more thoroughly. I didn't see anything that looks concerning though.
I took the belts off. Pump turns over freely and makes pumpy noises.
Motor runs nicely.
I'll test the pressure switch on my other compressor because that won't care if it doesn't shut it off.
Other things I've discovered... The inlet into the non return valve is 1/4 bsp, which is nice. The outlet from the pump is bigger than 3/8. The outlet from the head is smaller than 1/4. The pcl snap connector on the front is bigger than normal.
Once I've cleaned the tank a bit ill post some pics of the inside. Once I've cleared the bench I'll take the pump apart and see what it's like inside. The manual has all the clearance specs etc.
Then, if that all checks out I guess I'll be down my local air accessories again looking for some suitable connectors to join it all up.
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Sept 13, 2021 19:09:42 GMT
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Quick look tells me the connector is pcl 100 series and they are expensive! Good job I don't need them, guess I'll swap it out for a normal size one.
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93fxdl
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Sept 13, 2021 19:49:52 GMT
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Outlet from pump looks like a compression fitting, something seems off, since would be strange to strangle the compressor with a 1/4 feed into the tank, wonder if there is something like a non return fitting missing, also likely that the supply pipe would have compression fittings on both ends Ttfn Glenn
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Sept 13, 2021 20:33:09 GMT
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Outlet from pump looks like a compression fitting, something seems off, since would be strange to strangle the compressor with a 1/4 feed into the tank, wonder if there is something like a non return fitting missing, also likely that the supply pipe would have compression fittings on both ends Ttfn Glenn I did think it a little odd as even my little sip has 3/8 fitting into the tank. The guy I bought it off is still trying to find the link pipe, would really help if he could! Edit to say, this may have had a few different set ups in its life. The pressure switch is set to 10psi differential and 50psi max so the 1/4 fitting may not have mattered. If you look at the front of the valve block, under the gauge, there is a large blanking plug. I guess that could have been the original inlet. I'll take the valve block off and work out what does what.
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 20:37:05 GMT by VW
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Sept 13, 2021 21:07:16 GMT
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Thought I'd mention too, I'm pretty certain the valve block is original as it has exactly the same blue paint on it as all the rest.
I'm assuming the blue paint is original due to the stencils. There also doesn't seem to be any other colour where this blue has flaked.
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Sept 13, 2021 21:12:21 GMT
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First thing to do is remove the large bungs in the side of the receiver, so you can inspect the inside for rust. The valve at the bottom is for draining moisture from the receiver. The line from compressor to receiver would probably have fins to cool the air. Often industrial compressors are set up with multiple outlets to serve different needs Ttfn Glenn Found this pic, same pump, different receiver. Has pipes on top that mine doesn't have too, but shows the finned pipe you were talking about. Same size fittings both sides too. I wonder if the valve block was originaly where the tap is on the right. Maybe the pressure switch mounts to the 1/4 fitting and the pump went directly into the receiver. Would leave no one way valve though, assuming that block has one inside.
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Sept 13, 2021 21:13:26 GMT
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Sept 13, 2021 21:17:32 GMT
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Replying as I think of things. It couldn't take the pressure switch feed from the head as there would be a relief valve to release pump pressure for easy starting. The pressure switch needs to read receiver pressure.
The more I think about this the more I think It may have been swapped around to fullfill one specific task.
Either that, or I'm confusing myself as I don't 100% know what port is for what yet.
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 21:18:21 GMT by VW
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Sept 13, 2021 21:32:30 GMT
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So this tells me the link pipes on top, if it has them, are something to Do with the air governor. Or, like mine, it can have a pressure switch. It also suggests only ac35 and ac41 can have unloading valves. Doesn't mean there can't be one added to the tank connection though I guess This pic has the valve block. It's a different compressor though. Shows the connection from pump to valve may well be 1/4. Shows a connection to the pressure switch too and the pipe to the head. This pressure switch has a built in relieve valve by the looks of it, mine doesn't.
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Sept 16, 2021 14:35:52 GMT
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Looking at pics online it seems the hole in the head is just a mounting hole, goes nowhere. If there was an external unloaded valve it would have been connected on the head by the outlet. Seems this either doesn't have an unloaded, or it's built into the valve block. I'm sure it will make sense when I take the valve block apart. So, I decided to stop worrying about how it was set up before. I know what it SHOULD have, so I'll set it up how I want. The valve block needs cleaning and inspecting, the receiver I'm sure is fine but needs cleaning and checking properly. The pressure switch needs checking too. I can mix and match parts with my other compressors to test individual items. All pointless if the pumps no good though, so I had a peek. The valves look really good, few bits of dirt in the head but that's to be expected. Pistons look great, bores look great. Oil was a little dirty but nothing in it. Nothing in the bottom of the crankcase. Crank end float feels spot on. I was going to take the pistons out and check the rings and ring gaps etc but I really don't think there is much need. It all looks as good as new really. Seems the note implying it's not done much work is right. Looks like the last car painted was yellow 😂 I don't think it's worth disturbing the big end bearings in order to get the pistons out so I'll just put it back together and clean everything. The paint keeps flaking off which is a shame, looks like it may get painted, but I'll get it up and running first.
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