Exhaust heat shield pad advice needed

[ud-uk]

I had to replace the exhaust centre section and support brackets, it is a pattern part as Mercedes don't supply them any more.

The problem I now have is the the exhaust is hitting the floor of the car, not all the time, it's mostly when you select reverse gear, the gearbox and engine mounts were changed shortly after, and that made things worse.

I was thinking that if there was a pad between the section of exhaust and the floor of the car, it might help the problem.

Obviously there are some issues with heat, does such a product exist?, or any advice on alternatives would be great.

Here is an old photo showing the section I'm talking about.

[colnerov]

Have you got room to get a cotton reel bump stop in? Either fixed to the exhaust on the car. -

www.carbuilder.com/uk/cotton-reel-rubber-bump-stop-25mm-dia-x-20mm

Colin

[ejenner]

You should bend the brackets and exhaust pipes so they fit. It's not uncommon when fitting exhausts to have to make adjustments to the shapes of the metal. No law that says you must accept a pattern part the way it comes, especially applicable to exhausts.

Look at these two downpipes which both supposedly fit a Saab 900 turbo. They both couldn't possibly be correct as they're so different.




Often, if you can, it is best to loosen all the clamps on the complete exhaust system and make sure all the parts are free to move at the joints. This is only really possible on a workshop lift but you could do it on the ground if you got the car nice and high on x4 jack stands. With the system fully loosened at all joints you can use pry bars to shift the position of silencers and add clearance in tight spots and then start tightening it up again working from front to back.

[ud-uk]

I'm sure how I would fit it, but thanks for the link to that site, there is some good stuff on there.

[ud-uk]

Nov 13, 2023 11:29:38 GMT ejenner said:

You should bend the brackets and exhaust pipes so they fit. It's not uncommon when fitting exhausts to have to make adjustments to the shapes of the metal. No law that says you must accept a pattern part the way it comes, especially applicable to exhausts.

Look at these two downpipes which both supposedly fit a Saab 900 turbo. They both couldn't possibly be correct as they're so different.




Often, if you can, it is best to loosen all the clamps on the complete exhaust system and make sure all the parts are free to move at the joints. This is only really possible on a workshop lift but you could do it on the ground if you got the car nice and high on x4 jack stands. With the system fully loosened at all joints you can use pry bars to shift the position of silencers and add clearance in tight spots and then start tightening it up again working from front to back.

That's some good advice, many thanks

I've just found out a local garage not to far from me are doing a rent a ramp service, 20 euros an hour, so I might get myself down there and follow your advice.

Do I need something to seal the joints again? Sorry, I've not really worked on exhausts before.

[ejenner]

Depends on the kind of joint you're sealing. You can seal a joint with a thin smear of exhaust paste (on both surfaces) so take a tube of that with you (the toothpaste tube from Halfords).