LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,650
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Sorry for having a dense moment, but i went to time me Mazda up last night and i couldn't for the life of me remember if i do it to the TDC mark or the 13Deg Adv. mark on the Timing wheel? The 2 workshop manuals i have are of little use Oh, another thing, when the strobe is doing its thing on idle the mark seems to jump around (if you know what i mean) on the pully, you have to build the revs slightly to get it static. Is that normal?
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If there is only a TDC mark and 1 other then it must be the 'other' mark. Usualy done with the vacuum advance pipe disconected (It's been a while since I set timing... I take it it's the Mazda in the photo? I have an Autodata book that should have the info in, what model is it?
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down and that's not really the car's fault.
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mercmad
Posted a lot
Flush Hard,it's a long way to McDonalds.
Posts: 1,740
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The "jumping about" isn't normal. Sounds like spark scatter from worn ditributor bushes,loose points,worn points,cracked distributor cap,worn leads,loose coil leads, loose advance mechanism,worn advance springs,loose vacuum canister or burnt rotor . by revving it slightly you are moving the advance mechanism in the distributor to a point where it's starting to advance so if you set it there you are going to set it wrong. timing should `13btdc at idle with vacuum disconnected.
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Many years ago I changed my driving style to cope with rising fuel prices; I have now reached the stage where I am contemplating keeping my eyes shut in order to lower wind resistance.
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,650
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She's a 1976 Mazda 1300
I fitted a Aldon Ignitor a few weeks ago and have only just got round to setting the Timing up. Though i doubt this is causing any problems? She pulls cleaner thatn she did with points
I'm not revving it enough to start any sort of advance, literally adding say 100rpm (it idles at 600)
Am I best to sort out a new cap, and rotor then? there prob original to the car tbh...
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mercmad
Posted a lot
Flush Hard,it's a long way to McDonalds.
Posts: 1,740
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She's a 1976 Mazda 1300 I fitted a Aldon Ignitor a few weeks ago and have only just got round to setting the Timing up. Though I doubt this is causing any problems? She pulls cleaner thatn she did with points I'm not revving it enough to start any sort of advance, literally adding say 100rpm (it idles at 600) Am I best to sort out a new cap, and rotor then? there prob original to the car tbh... The ignitor will show any faults straight away.Yes I would replace 30+ year old ignition parts...they have a finite life,about 5 years on average. How are your leads? .On some of those the resistors were in the plug ends ( solid copper leads) and fitting carbon string suppressor leads will lose power because of excess resistance. Are the plugs new or as old as the car too? Everything works together. But I would pull the distributor and overhual it .
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Many years ago I changed my driving style to cope with rising fuel prices; I have now reached the stage where I am contemplating keeping my eyes shut in order to lower wind resistance.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Ignition Timingslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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I find the scatter at idle is pretty normal. Its the clearance in the advance mechanism i think. Once you build the revs slightly it takes up the slack and smoothes out.
You don't normaly set the timing at idle anyway its normaly at 1500rpm without vacume advance or something like that isnt it? it should quote in the manual.
Replacing leads an plugs etc. goes without saying relly
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,650
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May 18, 2008 10:18:15 GMT
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Both manuals say to set it at 600rpm? Neither mention owt about the vacuum
Best start the search for some new caps, lead etc..
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May 18, 2008 19:21:54 GMT
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from my ancient autodata book, it says 11 degrees at 600rpm. thats a bit flaming low IMO. I'd try it at like 12-1500 before the mechanical advance swings right in picture also shows three notches in the front pulley on a 1300, one at TDC, one at 7 degrees and one at 11 degrees. if it has three notches it must be the furthest one from TDC.
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,650
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Nope, just the two marks on mine. I bought some new parts last night, new cap and rotor, gonna stick them on later today and see if that helps.
I also took the dizzy apart last night and it was full of a dark thick oil, someones clearly tried to keep it lubricated but it was so think the weights were struggling to move. That explains the massive bogging down when the engines cold, i thought it was the choke, but the oil was that thick when cold nothing could move so there was no advance!
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May 19, 2008 19:30:41 GMT
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... the only injury I sustained was a bumped head when I let the seatbelt of without realizing the car was upside down and that's not really the car's fault.
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