RetroMat
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Jul 31, 2008 23:26:10 GMT
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I have some extra gauges to install into my Toledo thanks to tallsam, already done the voltmeter, now i just need to wire in the ammeter, anyone got any hints tips on how to do it?  cheers Mat |
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Jul 31, 2008 23:57:43 GMT
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A quick google found this page www.houlihane.co.uk/amps.htmThe problem with an ammeter is that you have to wire it using pretty heavy duty wire which will be carrying at least 30 amps of current and if that shorted out it would make a pretty good fire  As the article says a voltmeter is more useful and you have already wired that in. I would find another gauge instead, there is a matching Yazaki oil pressure gauge on ebay at the moment.  I just won these the other day on Ebay  I do like Yazaki gauges, they are basically the Japanese Smiths  |
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Last Edit: Aug 1, 2008 0:00:18 GMT by Deleted
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RetroMat
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Column Shifting!
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hmm cheers jammzr, more complex than i was imagining Oh well, oil pressure guage was next on the list and i've got a 52mm rev counter that could go in. Although i've mounted the guages under the dash so not easily in the drivers eye view, not really where you want a rev counter. That ebay set looks excellent, is it going in the 323 or the Viva? |
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MartinC
Part of things
Don't like stretched tyres, very low profile tyres & I think a car CAN be too low. Perhaps I'm odd.
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The ammeter goes into the main wire from your dynamo (if you have an alternator it's the same). It really isn't difficult. As mentioned, it does need to be thick enough to carry whatever Amp output your dynamo/alternator produces.
I'm guessing a Triumph uses Lucas wiring colours? If so it's the thick brown one coming out of your dynamo, break that wire using a junction box or silmilar, extend the two ends up to the two terminals on the ammeter. Easy.
An ammeter is far more useful than a voltmeter, especially if you have a dynamo. It tells you wether your battery is being charged or discharged.
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1937 Standard Flying Twelve
1943 Bedford OYD
1947 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty-Special
1954 Hillman Minx MkVIII
1956 Austin A30
1957 Vauxhall Victor Super
2001 Chrysler 300M
2002 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE Tourer
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If in doubt about ammeters put an inline 30A or 60A fuse in. It's a useful piece of kit to have.
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Martin,
That wiring will only measure the charge, not the discharge as well.
To measure the discharge too, you need to connect the ammeter between the +ve battery terminal and all of the wires that connect to it EXCEPT for the very heavy wire that runs to the starter motor.
These wires normally connect to the starter motor solenoid on the battery side. Remove them from there, connect the together. Connect the +ve side of the ammeter to the solenoid terminal and the -ve side to the combined wires.
Heavy duty wire, capable of carying 50-odd amps is essential with a big fuse being an excellent idea.
James
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you can get ammeters that don't need the heavy duty wiring, you wire in a shunt between the battery and everything else (not starter cable as mentioned above) and then connect the shunt to the ammeter with ordinary light gauge cable, its much safer in case of an accident, competition cars are generally wired this way.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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MartinC
Part of things
Don't like stretched tyres, very low profile tyres & I think a car CAN be too low. Perhaps I'm odd.
Posts: 935
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Martin, That wiring will only measure the charge, not the discharge as well. To measure the discharge too, you need to connect the ammeter between the +ve battery terminal and all of the wires that connect to it EXCEPT for the very heavy wire that runs to the starter motor. These wires normally connect to the starter motor solenoid on the battery side. Remove them from there, connect the together. Connect the +ve side of the ammeter to the solenoid terminal and the -ve side to the combined wires. Heavy duty wire, capable of carying 50-odd amps is essential with a big fuse being an excellent idea. James You're absolutely right, I stand corrected! |
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1937 Standard Flying Twelve
1943 Bedford OYD
1947 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty-Special
1954 Hillman Minx MkVIII
1956 Austin A30
1957 Vauxhall Victor Super
2001 Chrysler 300M
2002 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE Tourer
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I will be putting the dials in the 323, Japanese dials in a Japanese car I wont be putting all four in like that though, I will be putting the rev counter in a pod on the dash and the voltmeter will be going in a twin pod along with an oil pressure gauge that I have already installed. I don't think I can be bothered to plumb in the Vacuum gauge even though it does look cool. I may have made installing an ammeter seem more hassle than it is, don't let me put you off wiring it up lol. For some reason I really want an oil temp gauge, not sure if Yazaki made any though. |
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Last Edit: Aug 1, 2008 22:08:04 GMT by Deleted
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vacuum gauge is probably the easiest to plumb in and one of the best ways of saving money while you drive, ive found with mine in the cortina that knocking 5mph off my nromal cruising speed gets the needle out of the "drive" section and into the "idle" section, hence me getting just over 30mpg out of a 2.9 litre cortina.  |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Hirst
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This avatar is inaccurate, I've never shaved that closely
Posts: 3,930
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I will be putting the dials in the 323, Japanese dials in a Japanese car I wont be putting all four in like that though, I will be putting the rev counter in a pod on the dash and the voltmeter will be going in a twin pod along with an oil pressure gauge that I have already installed. I don't think I can be bothered to plumb in the Vacuum gauge even though it does look cool. Interesting, does that mean you'll have a rev counter spare? I know a 323 which could do with one..... |
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I will be putting the dials in the 323, Japanese dials in a Japanese car I wont be putting all four in like that though, I will be putting the rev counter in a pod on the dash and the voltmeter will be going in a twin pod along with an oil pressure gauge that I have already installed. I don't think I can be bothered to plumb in the Vacuum gauge even though it does look cool. Interesting, does that mean you'll have a rev counter spare? I know a 323 which could do with one..... Sadly no, for some reason the other 52mm Yazaki rev counter I got off Ebay doesn't work properly  Hopefully this new one will be better. |
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Hirst
Posted a lot
This avatar is inaccurate, I've never shaved that closely
Posts: 3,930
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Boo! I suppose the ultimate goal would be for the 323 tacho dash:  Suspect they cost a fortune though. Someone needs to knock up an easy guide to general wiring as I've no idea at all to be honest. I've got an Omori rev counter lying around in the Charmant glovebox and despite having a wiring diagram, I'm still thoroughly confused. |
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I'd leave it Mat - as mentioned, it won't be of any use and they can be quite hazardous. Put a vacuum gauge (economy) in instead! Much more fun It's like boost, in reverse |
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Last Edit: Aug 2, 2008 10:15:57 GMT by Lewis
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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thanks for the info, I have been given a vacuum gauge today so will bung that in. Probably wont bother with the ammeter. Anyway, i've fitted the dials, holes were already in place for the guage holder so I didnt have to drill anything.  |
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Last Edit: Aug 4, 2008 1:51:14 GMT by RetroMat
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I do like Yazaki gauges, they are basically the Japanese Smiths 
Hopefully this new one will be better.