|
|
Sept 26, 2008 14:43:24 GMT
|
Looking around for a new daily hack & been looking at Mondeo ST24s, seen a nice 2000 estate
Any good? Expensive to fix? 0-60 time? Top s[eed? Tuneable? What MPG? Worth getting an estate? Anything else?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 14:45:34 GMT
|
Quick but not fast.
Sounds nice!
|
|
1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
|
|
jaswh
Part of things
Posts: 154
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 14:56:05 GMT
|
i ran a 99 one a while back,not bad. quick but the gsi vectra faster water pumps can fall apart (plastic type,change to new steel type air bag light plays up (easy fix) can be a hard ride for some appox 23mpg round town get the rsa kitted one (looks lots better)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 16:49:11 GMT
|
What engine do these have? 24v Cologne type affair or something else?
I've driven one when I worked as a car transporter for a spell - totally knackered bottom end and only just made it to the stealership for resale. Quite quick, but I didn't cane it as I didn't want to grenade the engine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 16:52:29 GMT
|
24V 2.5 Duratec
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 18:15:33 GMT
|
I run one of these, Very quick, sound great when pushed but very juicey, It cost £60 to full up and only last 300 miles, hence why I would like to sell it. I paid £1850 in March for it from a Seat dealer in Sa'Fend which was a good price at the time bust the market has dropped out of these big engined cars now . Still it's a great drive and feels very tight even after 78k. No cambelt to worry about as chain driven but watch out for the plastic water pumps as they break, but very cheap to fix, (it's a Ford). Does 0-60 in about 8sec, (less with the traction control off) and has around 167bhp i think. Mine:
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 26, 2008 18:17:22 GMT by trigger
|
|
spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 818
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 21:08:16 GMT
|
Well, I don't run a ST24, but I do run a '99 24v SI, which is a similar deal in it has the same 167 - 170 (depending where you get your figures) Duratec V6, same interior (but cloth), you get the idea. Difference is it looks like a 1.8 LX with 16"s and only has tiny 24v badges, so it's a lot more fun for pushing chavs around with ;D As said the plastic impellers can fall of the water pump, which with two heads to warp, can be expensive to fix. Exhaust manifold gaskets can blow, giving a ticking sound, bit like a dodgy tappet. Last time I calculated I got 29 mpg out of it. I don't hang around in it by any stretch either, but if you insist on constant use ofthe upper rev band (they do sound nice up there) this will suffer. Rear arches seem to go crappy on mk2 Mondeos'. Like I said mine is a 'lesser' one but if it helps it was advertised at a respected local dealer for £1450 in 2006. It was tidy, had fsh, a/c, good boots alround, but had a few car park dinks and 118k, it was a trade in and he wanted rid cos he could sell smaller stuff for more! I bought it out the back door for less and bar consumable stuff, service, tyres etc the only things to go wrong are that it will tick from the front manifold for a few weeks, then it goes quiet for a while (defo the manifold, you can see the black mark!), a rear ABS sensor went and rear ARB saddle bushes. Overall I'm pretty happy with it
|
|
Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Sept 26, 2008 21:34:59 GMT
|
I know an ST200 can get 25MPG around town with relatively gentle driving (and it's not difficult to do). Even my GTi-6 I don't need to rev the balls off it around town to keep up with traffic, it just keeps up fine . Most of the problems have been highlighted. Generally they are solid cars. As for rust, the last 3 Mondeos I've seen (I briefly owned a 2000 1.8 TD LX Estate on a W plate, mate had an N reg 1.8 LX, and another guy had the same), I haven't really seen any rust on them. If the rust is in a stange place, chances are that it's a pattern part, so probably seen a crash etc. But the arches can sometimes rust on them, never seen one crusty though. My Focus' arch went crusty, but again this was down to a poor 1/4panel repair, shown by the fact that the rest of the car was perfect rustwise. What I will say is I would keep the plastic type impellor water pump for reasons why some VAG guys say to keep one. You don't really think manufacturers would spend ages developing a water pump only for it to destroy itself? Metal ones are more likely to seize up, which as I am sure you know will finish off any engine. Plastic will break the impellors. If the impellors break, the engine may overheat if you don't turn the engine off in time. Make of that what you will. Knowing a guy who has been in the warranty business for a while, even he said that water pump failure is not as commonplace as people would have you think. Just change it when the cambelt is done as a safeguard. Yes I know it's an extra expense, but it's cheaper than the other options.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 27, 2008 0:41:30 GMT
|
I run one of these, Very quick, sound great when pushed but very juicey, It cost £60 to full up and only last 300 miles, hence why I would like to sell it. I paid £1850 in March for it from a Seat dealer in Sa'Fend which was a good price at the time bust the market has dropped out of these big engined cars now . Still it's a great drive and feels very tight even after 78k. No cambelt to worry about as chain driven but watch out for the plastic water pumps as they break, but very cheap to fix, (it's a Ford). Does 0-60 in about 8sec, (less with the traction control off) and has around 167bhp I think. Mine: MY MK5 CORTINA COSTS £55 TO FILL AND ONLY DOES 200 MILES ON A TANK:(
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 27, 2008 7:50:05 GMT
|
Got a bit more time now. My dad ran a 2.5 V6 Ghia X estate (soggier suspension, leather seats, wood dash etc...) as a company car for 3 years. It sounded lovely and was pretty much faultless all the way through, would stand its own against most warm hatches in a straight line and around corners. It did drink well but being a company car it was probably a lot to do with the driving style Only problem is that the seats and driving position, although very comfortable at first, aren't at all good for your back. My dad had to change it on medical grounds in the end
|
|
1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
|
|
|
|
Sept 27, 2008 18:50:57 GMT
|
Don't know much about V6 ones but I've got experience of Mondeos in general.
The central locking is too clever for its own good and can play up something chronic. The boot is also prone to leaking leaving you with a paddling pool in the wheel well.
|
|
Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
|
|
CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
|
|
Sept 27, 2008 19:16:09 GMT
|
Get one and pretend to be Andy Rouse. Or Paul Radisich.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 28, 2008 17:09:40 GMT
|
got nearly 40mpg on the motoway. Just get a metal waterpump and make sure you keep oil slightly above max. I prefer the RSAP kitted saloons, bit stiffer and less common....stock mondys are dull....
Bottom end issues are caused by low oil + very hard cornering which in some rare cases may cause oil stavation... Performance is pretty good, certainly I didn't find it lacking compared to my old Saab T16S, though I missed the addictive turbo 'kick' of that car...
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 28, 2008 17:12:26 GMT by chrissyb
'98 e36 316i lux '97 mx5 harvard '87 Saab 900 T16s
|
|
|
|
Sept 28, 2008 17:40:52 GMT
|
And watch for high kerbs when parking and muti-story car parks, you will keep grounding out your front chin spoiler, what with the lowered stuff suspension!
|
|
|
|