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I was under the impression that some were cast in pairs, like some throttle bodies are. What about Fireblade carbs, are they separable (yes it is a word according to the spellchecker!), and what size are they?
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1953 Minor (Long term project) PT Cruiser
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Carbs are individual things, they're linked by bars/brackets and linkages. 'Blades have been around since 92 or so, loads of models about so depends on year.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Flatsides! gorgeous sounding but I don't wanna be you when you come to set them up! no problem ;D if i can do eight then four is a doddle.
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soggy
Part of things
Posts: 90
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Here is my conversion,zx9 carbs on a 1.8 hybrid cvh using home made manifold and a bike fuel pump. . sorry about taking this off topic; but what sort of power did that make? ive been tempted by the 1800 bottom end in mine. whats it like strength wise? and do you need to modify anything to get it to fit inplace of a 1.6 and fit a 1.6 head on it? A bit long replying , i never had it rolling roaded so don't know the power,the work was done by ferriday engineering and uses zetec pistons and the better 1.6 head with bigger valves( the standard one is curse word) as far as i know it fits straight on and as far as fitting goes i cant help.Give ferriday a call they can answer all your questions.
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16,000 mile, 88 polo breadvan. Now in bits in the garage,watch this space!
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soggy
Part of things
Posts: 90
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For a lot of info on bike carbs a throtle boddies have a look at www.locostbuilders.co.uk and do a search it been done a lot,its where i got me info.
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16,000 mile, 88 polo breadvan. Now in bits in the garage,watch this space!
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hi all
my tubing should be here tomorrow to get cracking on the manifold and i was wondering if peopl ehave made the extra tube for the vacume?
do i just run 1 vacume feed from #4 or all 4 or is it not really needed?
all help would be great so i can get started
cheers
Ben
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I'm dropping of the bike carbs and manifold I made to the lad who got me to do the work; he has two 1985 'vintage' mk2 Golf's; one with late 1300 fitted, t'other with the original still has it non-hydraulic pre 86 original 1300 fitted; he runs the later engined car every day, and reckons he cant afford Bike carbs on his daily (fuel costs) so the bike carbs are going on the earlier engined mk2 Golf... bit pointless, IMO, but there you go... To get to the point I explained about the lack of vacum outlet for the servo and how I didnt fancey lugging all my welding gear 70 or so miles, he reckons he'll get the right 'fitting' (plumbers supplies) for the servo vacum, and simply drill, tap/tread in the fitting in no.4 manifold, PTF tape taking care of any possible leaks... I'm a bit of a stubborn Diesel tinkerer and have forgotten most of the petrol tech (reorganisation and priority of info for the 'minimum memory my brian runs on), but I reckon I'll make up another manifold someday on some other application...
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so it is needed then? and if so just run it off no4
anyone else tried it with out?
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I tried it without vacuum (forgot to connect the hose) and I'd strongly advise you run a vacuum. You simply don't stop without it.
Just one hose should be sufficient off #4, that's what I did and it was fine
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1967 Morris Traveller 1971 Series IIA Land Rover 1991 Golf GL 4+e 1992 Corrado G60 1986 E28 BMW 528i
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Once this thread has run it's course, any chance of putting it into the useful threads archive?
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1953 Minor (Long term project) PT Cruiser
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Mar 10, 2009 11:01:31 GMT
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In answer to some of the questions raised I thought I'd add some info (I've been away for a week) As far as fuel pumps are concerned, if the carbs you are using were originally gravity fed, then a cheap pump should be OK along with a regulator to cut down the operating pressure to a minimum. Generally standard fuel pumps off fuel injected cars run at much higher pressure, too high for the carbs causing them to overflow and leak. On the (originally carburetted) Golf there was a feed and return pipe from the tank, so I blanked off the return, and connected the electric pump to the feed in the bay. I'm not sure how the motorbike pump would cope with being mounted back near the tank, in a short pull long push setup, I can't see it being a huge problem as long as the pipework under the car can stand the pressure without leaking, and the pump can stand the extra load. I guess it would be a case of try it and see if it works. When I did mine, I ran the Golf's mechanical diaphragm pump initially before the electric pump arrived, and found it overfuelled on tickover, and was suffering from fuel starvation at high revs, causing it to miss and cut out. That's why I figured the CBR6 pump was the best for the job. The length of the runners you use when making your manifold depends really on the space available, although as far as I'm aware, shorter is better, as the shorter the length of the inlet tract (between carb and combustion chamber) the quicker throttle response you'll get. The only issue that may arise if the carbs are really close is heat soaking from the head into the carbs, causing the fuel inside to vaporise. Spacing of the carbs is a bit of an issue, as most car inlet ports are wider spaced than the barrels on bike carbs. The easier option is to fabricate your manifold with tubes angled to meet your carbs, and the hard way is to space the carbs out to match the inlet ports on your head, and use straight tubes. The way I see it is although the easy option causes the inlet tracts to be slightly different lengths (2 longer 2 shorter) in real world 'on the road' applications it would make no noticable difference. Spacing the carbs out is difficult as it requires spacers to be made up, and the throttle spindles/linkages between the carbs to be extended (which I see someone has done earlier in the thread), but I imagine that this can make it a bit of a mare to balance the carbs. My aim was to do the job as cheaply as possible, but as has been shown, the skills of a lot of people on RR are far beyond my own, and you can go to town if you're a stickler for detail. As mentioned earlier the locost site is a good one, there's a lot of experience using bike carbs on there. Just as an aside, I'm over the moon this thread has proved so popular, it's a great feeling knowing that my limited experience is proving useful to fellow RR'ers and that I'm giving a little something back...
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1967 Morris Traveller 1971 Series IIA Land Rover 1991 Golf GL 4+e 1992 Corrado G60 1986 E28 BMW 528i
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Mar 10, 2009 18:49:52 GMT
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by the way, you can use a fuel injection pump on carburettors with the correct regulator. i have done it a couple of times. all you need is the regulator off a carbed turbo car as they run low pressure for the carb with a high pressure pump only upping the pressure for boost. as there is no boost the pressure will not rise . easy you will need to use the return to the tank but this has the advantage of circulating the fuel so it can't sit in the pipes, get hot and boil. a Montego Turbo , Renault 5 turbo etc will have the correct regulator as they run high pressure injection style pumps anyway, or you can get an aftermarket Power Boost valve for these cars with adjustment to lower the pressure even more if required. this is the route i'm taking with my project
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Mar 16, 2009 20:50:42 GMT
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silly question but what kind of mpg does a 1.8-2.0 get on bike carbs? anyone got any first hand experience?
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Mar 24, 2009 14:24:48 GMT
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Seriously considering bike carbing the Derby..... but a little reluctant at the moment.
There seems to be alot of people talking about the how-to's with fitting bike carbs to a car engine, but little is documented on the results. Has anyone done any back-to-back tests with rolling road print-outs etc, how do they behave/feel like on the road?
How does the conversion & BHP gains compare to a more simpler induction options such as twin choke webbers (DGAV etc)
Cheers
Dan
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Mar 25, 2009 13:26:48 GMT
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I never bothered RRing my old golf, as it was a seriously budget project, and a pretty wheezy old 1300 to start with anyway. It did however feel a lot more responsive and willing to rev than it did on its old pierberg 2e2 carb, which wasn't a good starting point anyway. The throttle cam on the bike carbs has a very short travel, as it's designed to be used with the twist grip hand throttle on a bike. I had issues with mine because of this, and because I developed a heavy right foot, ended up bending my pedal linkage. The solution would be to either extend the linkage to operate over a longer throw on the carbs, or adjust the cable so that the carbs are only at wide open throttle when the pedal is on the carpet!
I'm sure there are plenty of folks around here (or on the Locost forum) who have verifiable printouts for before and after.
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1967 Morris Traveller 1971 Series IIA Land Rover 1991 Golf GL 4+e 1992 Corrado G60 1986 E28 BMW 528i
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Mar 25, 2009 15:36:06 GMT
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I never bothered RRing my old golf, as it was a seriously budget project, and a pretty wheezy old 1300 to start with anyway. It did however feel a lot more responsive and willing to rev than it did on its old pierberg 2e2 carb, which wasn't a good starting point anyway. The throttle cam on the bike carbs has a very short travel, as it's designed to be used with the twist grip hand throttle on a bike. I had issues with mine because of this, and because I developed a heavy right foot, ended up bending my pedal linkage. The solution would be to either extend the linkage to operate over a longer throw on the carbs, or adjust the cable so that the carbs are only at wide open throttle when the pedal is on the carpet! I'm sure there are plenty of folks around here (or on the Locost forum) who have verifiable printouts for before and after. I just made a throttle stop and rivnuted it to the floor of the car under the pedal, easy ;D
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Mar 25, 2009 16:46:29 GMT
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I just made a throttle stop and rivnuted it to the floor of the car under the pedal, easy ;D Haha! Genius! Seriously though, depending on the car of course, and the linkage setup, if you like to be able to modulate the throttle at all, it requires either modification of the pedal linkage, or the linkage at the carbs. On mine it went from tickover to wide open throttle within about half an inch, which made things interesting for hill starts!
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1967 Morris Traveller 1971 Series IIA Land Rover 1991 Golf GL 4+e 1992 Corrado G60 1986 E28 BMW 528i
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Mar 25, 2009 19:00:05 GMT
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happy as a pig in the brown stuff my manifold came back today so got the silicone out and it looks good. just waiting on the jubilee clips to arrive and a 10mm union to tap in for the brake servo and then a 6mm union to tap in for the vacuum ALSO: does anyone know what the ruber hose on top of the carbs is? it runs from the middle of both sets of carbs and joins to become one and exits from the side? Cheers Ben
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Last Edit: Mar 25, 2009 19:03:01 GMT by benlg81
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Lopez
East Midlands
Posts: 867
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Mar 25, 2009 22:13:12 GMT
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I have that hose on my CBR6 and it vents into the airbox or just to atmosphere. Unless you have way too much fuel pressure - in which case petrol gushes out of it
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khaOs
Part of things
Posts: 115
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Dec 16, 2009 14:57:48 GMT
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A quick question, i wanted to fit a set of bike carbs to my 1.6l Opel Kadett but i'm having trouble sourcing one (at a good price) here in Portugal. Does anyone know where i can get them (cheap) online? Or maybe someone has one to sell?
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