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Bike Carbs - How I did it.BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Mar 14, 2010 15:55:47 GMT
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take it only cars with distributors that you can put them on with out buying crazy stand alone wiring systems? If it's got ECU-controlled injection and / or ignition you can always go with bike carbs and use MegaJolt for the ignition - cheap and accessible as it uses Ford EDIT bits.
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khaOs
Part of things
Posts: 115
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Mar 14, 2010 17:08:44 GMT
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take it only cars with distributors that you can put them on with out buying crazy stand alone wiring systems? You can always get rid of the ecu and loom and install a distributor. I know of a few people that have done that. Colortune looks interesting. And so does Carbtune! I'll probably end up buying both so i can also tune other carbs.
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Mar 14, 2010 17:22:01 GMT
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Hi-Colourtune-It's a see through spark plug that allows you to tune the fuel mixture/jets/needles to suit the engine
Carbalancer-It's a vacuum type gauge that you use to balance each carb-making sure each carb is "breathing " the same amount
I got both of them from ebay,I'm in Ireland and it was easier and maybe quicker to get them from ebay.The drills are often on ebay as micro drills.At the moment my jets are at 1.4mm but I want to drive my car-it's for racing-before I go too big.
Carmad-It depends on the cars ignition system whether you car use carbs-you might find an earlier model had a carb setup you could use it's ignition-i.e opel xe 16v redtop often gets a 1.6 ohc cavalier ignition system used for carbs
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,988
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Mar 14, 2010 18:14:42 GMT
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there are certain early-mid 90's ford ignition bits that can be used for running bike carbs, called ESC (electronic spark control) its 3 wires basically, crank sensor, temp sensor and power (plus obvious earth and maybe tacho output) megajolt and other ignition management will get the best out of any carbed engine.
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khaOs
Part of things
Posts: 115
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Mar 14, 2010 19:34:39 GMT
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carmad
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,000
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Mar 14, 2010 19:53:37 GMT
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that is a kinky bit off kit
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Last Edit: Mar 14, 2010 20:07:19 GMT by carmad
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Mar 14, 2010 21:56:14 GMT
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Hi-I'm still testing/tuning my carb setup.If you've just rebuilt your engine it might be wise to run it in first on whatever setup you have now.Adding bike carbs to it might give you too many variables-and things to go wrong.That carb tune in the videos isn't what I use to balance the carbs.The carbalancer I have connects to the mouth of the carburettor on the air filter side.
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khaOs
Part of things
Posts: 115
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Mar 14, 2010 22:08:49 GMT
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i know it's not the same. But from the reviews i've seen the Morgan Carbtune is better and if i buy both it's 86£ delivered to Portugal.
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I'm going to try this. I should think my 976cc engine should be pretty adequate for bike carbs! Anyone stuck with metal inlets, can try and modify a K-series inlet as it's plastic. I have a really crappy Solex single carb in mine and fuelling cuts out round corners. Would love to see more videos of people's carbs and how they sound.
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Chr1s
Part of things
Posts: 38
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May 13, 2010 11:22:37 GMT
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Wicked thread lots of info, I'm just going to bump it up to see if anyone has anything to add since march as my mate doing this to his mk3 8v 2.0 golf. Thanks to benzboy for pointing me this way ;D
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prey
Part of things
Posts: 856
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May 13, 2010 12:00:50 GMT
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I've been running bike carbs for about 18 months now on my nova, using r1 carbs on a 1.6 8v engine. I had a manifold supplied by a local chap (if anyone wants details pm me) who has cast and fabbed ali ones produced very reasonably.
I used a facet cube mounted at the back and a filterking reg in the engine bay, jets are drilled out and needles adjusted - mine were setup using the good old wideband and knock sensor method on the road. For ignition I'm using megajolt which is a big improvement over the previous dizzy - again mapped on the road. The same chap also supplies the megajolt units etc built and ready to go with/without a loom and fitting etc etc etc if anyone is interested.
To the carb haters (lol) - I've never had any problems with them regarding running, starting or needing tweaking etc - fuel consumption is excellent if you drive nicely, curse word if you don't and they sound awesome with some custom trumpets! That said mine tends to come on song above 3k and if you keep below that, accelerate gently and don't have a loud exhaust people never need know much has changed - handy for the local area and early mornings.
Behaviour wise the combination of the mj and carbs has made mine very urgent, the throttle response is sharp, but it is very well behaved ie pulls from 1k cleanly and goes til 7k - personally I found the midrange the most impressive tho, it really goes from 3k up. For a small engine it's surprising - altho being in a light car does help!
I would say the only bad bit is the fuel as you will rev it more and burning 20 quid in one sitting isn't hard to do but you can't have everything hey.
I have some pics in my wip and a video or two somewhere if I can find the links.
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kel
Part of things
Posts: 61
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Hey guys heres my current set up on my Honda all homebuilt in my shed! Anyways everything is now plumbed up but when i turn on the ignition and the bike pump is running it floods the carbs causing fuel to leak from the spouts underneath each carb.
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Neil
Part of things
Posts: 599
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I fitted the ZZR1100 carbs and fuel pump to my E28, the pump off the bike has a built in regulator and stops when it's right. Does yours not have this? Could your float bowl gaskets be shot?
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Best to start at the bottom of the carbs and work your way up.
If it's coming out of a stub at the bottom of each carb bowl, which has a little hole in the end (and I think I saw you mention this in another thread? Maybe not) then your bowl drains are open. These are meant to be used to drain fuel out of the carbs before you remove them, and there should be a little screw for each one that needs to be tightened up. On my bike carbs it's a little brass allen headed screw.
If it's coming from the join between the float bowl and the body of the carb itself then the rubber gaskets might be knackered. Make sure the bowls are screwed on tight enough and the gasket is seated properly.
If it's coming out higher up on the carbs than this, it might be stuck floats/needles. In this case, take the bowls off and check that the floats move freely and needles are in the right place. I only really know how the floats on my YZF600r carbs look and work, but if you search on some bike forums you should find some guides on sorting stuck floats for your carbs.
If it's none of these, maybe the fuel pump delivering too much pressure, but this would be strange from a correct bike pump as they're meant to stop this from happening.
I only know this through trial, error and Google when doing my own bike carb setup. Hope it helps!
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kel
Part of things
Posts: 61
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Cheers for the replies now guys, its been a bit of trial and error for me but thats the best way to learn IMO.
Anyways my school boy error was that the drains where slightly open, and then a couple of the floats where sticking as they've been sat for a while. Anyways its now resolved an the car starts with no leaks.
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mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
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I wrote tons of info, from my experience coverting various Polo/Golf engines back in the day, on www.clubpolo.co.uk and most of that info is still there in the archives. I started in 2004 with CBR600F-X's on a 1.6 Polo engine, my current 1.6 16v Seat Leon engine in my MK2 Polo Coupe is running CBR900RR carbs. My highest reccomendation for fuelling is to have a pressure release valve to send any excess fuel back to the tank (set at around 3psi). Do not use a regulator instead. This is because these carbs can only take minimal fuel pressure, but with a broad range of demand. This also means you won't have more than 3psi of pressure in the whole system, bringing the risk of fire to minimal levels. And remember to pipe your fuel breathers down the back of the engine - fuel vapour and HT lead leakage are another risk, and i see open fuel breathers on bike carb conversions all the time. 1.6 Polo engine 2004 1.4 Golf engine 2005 1.4 Golf engine 2006 (different car) 1.6 Polo engine, 2006, as ran in the red one in 2004 1.6 16v Hybrid Polo/Bora engine 2007 1.6 VVT Polo engine with throttle switch cam-flipping (switch on carbs can be seen, also required 3D mapping) 1.6 16v Leon/Polo GTi Hybrid engine Making a manifold Note impact fuel pump shut-off switch, for electric pump (injection engines used), so i don't die in a fireball.. Other things can go wrong if you're not careful, this was the result of a lean-running carb.. Don't make the mistake of using carbs that are too big. They'll be harder to set up and the engines run nicer on smaller ones despite the automatic venturi sliding throttle gates. Remember a bike engine revs twice as high, and is typically in a higher state of tune to boot - CBF400s are good for a 1.3, CBR600s are good for a 1.8. These carbs flow better than 40s and a pair (half set) of the 36mm CBR600 carbs are equivalent to a twin 40. You can split a set into any number of carbs you need, but you may need extra or to modify one, as each carb is fitted up to work in it's position. I.E one is a master with a pulley, some have linkages both sides, one per set doesn't, fuel/breather inlets vary etc. But yeah, you can use them on Air cooled, straight sixes, A-series etc. Bike carbs are very efficient, i saw economy i'd never get from an EFi and MOT examiners thinking their equipment was faulty, i even ran a catalyst on the 16v's.. but remember that running at the leaner end of the scale can get you melted pistons. But whilst most associate bike carbs with power tuning, they're also good for updating a mild engine for daily use (they don't go out of balance quickly like other multi-carb conversions, and being idividual they are naturally more efficient than the fuel/air scavenging you get from division manifolds). Notice i've only covered Honda's Kei-Hin range they used on some '93-'01 CB's. This is simply because my first set were CBR600F-X's, and i wanted to keep my spares and knowledge in the same field until i knew what i was doing. It's made sense not to deviate as a DIY'er even though i'd learn more through experimenting with other types. People have got better results than me with other carbs, i've heard of 200bhp 1.3 8v's and 300bhp 2.0 16v's using Mikunis but i think my limits were more to do with my tendancy to run economy than anything else (current engine ran 128bhp whilst running hopelessly lean with a restrictive exhaust - the back box was on the wrong way around for a start!).
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2015 4:29:05 GMT by mikeymk
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Jun 21, 2017 23:05:03 GMT
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Hi guys I'm a big peugeot enthusiast simply because in south africa its quite a different amd unpopular vehicle i own, a 306gti6 505gti amd a 304 coupe Ive recently discover the effectiveness on bike carb application and recent breakdown to my little 1300cc peugeot 304 coupe lead me to take thid opportunity to get a little more power out of it, i currently fitted the later block and head of the 1500cc "305" model on the 1300 gearbox and flywheel, ported /flowed the head aswell as very mild cam,I'm sourcing carbs at moment amd i came across a set of gsx750 carbs which the owner claims is 34mm in size,i would like to know if this would suit my engine ,bare in mind this is an old model and airspeed not of todays 16v's or even 8v's the compression is standard quite high at 9.2:1, Hope to get response from someone as bike carbs application are not realy done in s-a tht much yet
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