MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 10, 2013 18:13:28 GMT
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But of course A bit more pricey than the Civic one but I managed to avoid the 'Old Skool Ford Scene Tax', so it landed with me for around a ton
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Aug 10, 2013 18:32:11 GMT
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I was under the impression that whilst old Fords were pricey, their parts were relatively reasonable and available in a good quality unlike many BL things . Still, a ton is pretty cheap from what the other options appeared to be. I guess that was a new rad? If so, what are the quality of the welds like in your opinion? I ask since they happen to sell a set of non pre-cat exhaust manifolds for my Mondeo V6, and they seem to promise alot.
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Last Edit: Aug 10, 2013 18:33:16 GMT by ChasR
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 10, 2013 19:38:27 GMT
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Yeah, seems to depend a lot on where you buy from. I've seen prices as high as £800 for exactly the same spec radiator. I sh1t you not! Brand new radiator. No idea of country of origin tbh, but the welds look ok to me. Not 100% but certainly of a high enough standard not to give me any sleepless nights. You're more than welcome to have a nose under the bonnet
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Aug 10, 2013 22:11:02 GMT
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Lovely rad and a great improvment in size over the civic unit. Will be nice to see this again at prescott.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 12, 2013 19:12:32 GMT
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Yes, It's showed to be good so far. Drove to Warwick and back yesterday and temperature was totally under control at all times. Included using a few too many revs through town oooopsy! lol
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Wakey wakey Mr Speedy! I'm too bone idle to work on my own Vitesse so I need your updates to keep my mojo up!
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Ha ha. TBH, I have been rather lacking in work on this. I've just been thrashing it about and scareing Toyota Prius owners! Not to mention being flat out at work, recovering after moving workshops!! However, there WILL be things happening over the winter period. Hopefully, the Megasquirt conversion will get done (with ITB's, new exhaust manifold fabrications, and maybe a little rust reduction Here, have a quick drive-by video my Daughter took
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2013 9:38:35 GMT by MrSpeedy
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You moved workshop? That must have been hard work to get all that stuff shifted!
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Koos
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Oct 10, 2013 22:39:10 GMT
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Vitesses are so disgustingly cheap at the moment i have a lot of want for one.
Among many other things of course. Great engineering solutions in this thread, bookmarked!
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Oct 10, 2013 23:37:21 GMT
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That sounds bloody lovely!
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Just read this whole thread, great project & great engineering going into it. Love it. Makes me wish i hadn't sold my vitesse 15 years ago, she was my first love, all those times we broke down together... the time her engine caught fire and i had to douse it with cider cos that was all i had... or the time her conrod got fed up with wobbling around at 95mph with frugal lubrication and popped right out the side of her block
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gavs1
Part of things
Posts: 571
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brilliant read, bookmaked buddy
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Dec 10, 2013 12:56:52 GMT
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Thanks folks Having answered a question, it looks like I need to get the ECU finished off so I can get the ignition side sorted soon, then I can fit the EFI at a later date
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Mar 19, 2014 18:18:47 GMT
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Small update; Still not finished the ECU build, having issues uploading the firmware. Dunno if it's me or it or cable issues. I'll get back on it at some point tho. I have changed the spark plugs tho. When I built the engine, I fitted a set of triple electrode 'Accuspark' plugs. A bit of a gimmick I know, but that's what I did. Anyways, having pulled all the plugs and examined them for evidence of running, it's looking ok. A little rich on the front, and a little lean on the rear. (No 3 on left and No 5 on right) So, tweaked the front carb a couple of flats richer and the rear carb a turn richer and then added a set of these; I can actually feel the difference! Revs more cleanly, pulls stronger, but does have a tendancy to get bogged when in traffic for a long time and an occasional misfire, which I put down to running a little too far on the rich side when warm
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Last Edit: Jan 13, 2015 23:34:08 GMT by MrSpeedy
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Mar 19, 2014 23:53:33 GMT
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I found a similar difference in the Stag by simply going for NGK plugs lacking a letter! (BP5ESs to BP5Es). On the ESs it would pop and misfire at mid/high RPM (and low RPM on the cheapo County coil), and generally not run all that smooth, from the day I installed them (It was not running great prior to then either, but it ran alot better on the NGKs (but also because I fixed other issues (severe vacuum leaks and poor ignition timing). During the last service by simply going to Es it now runs very smoothly, that it surprised me how such a misfiring issue could vanish!
Saying that, the Denso plugs ran very well in the Mini for the short time I owned it.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:12:18 GMT
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I've found that the Triumph engines like the 3 pronged plugs. Think it's more to do with being effectively a "side-gap" plug than the number of prongs though. I usually use Bosch ones (the ones that fit Golf GTI 2 & 3 8v). You'll want either resistive plugs or resistive leads when you go to MS.
MS firmware problems may be the cable if you are using an USB - serial adaptor. Some work, some work a bit and some do nothing. The ones with FTDI chipset seem the most reliable. If in doubt, hook up to a desktop with a serial port. If you've being going through the build test procedures you should know if you have basic comms available?
Cheers
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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You'll want either resistive plugs or resistive leads when you go to MS. Surely he will want both. On the Fords I have worked on in the past with DIS (coilpacks) both the leads and plugs have resistors present . I shall agree that having simply bunch of them with resistors will improve matters over a car running on EFI with a resistorless ignition system.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Mar 22, 2014 17:16:27 GMT
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vitesseefi , Yeah I think the cable is probably half the problem, the other half being me not really understanding the computer 'speak' Haven't even thought about the technicalities of resistive plugs/leads etc as I'm still a long way off and as the car is running soo much better at the moment I'm not in a rush to tear it apart again! I was hoping to have the Efi fitted for the Gathering, but in reality I can't see it happening. Anyways, another small update; Ever since I fitted the Type 9 gearbox I've been plagued by a small niggle. Namely that the original Triumph rubber gaiter that I fitted to the new tunnel, kept pulling the gearbox out of gear when in 2nd or 4th. Very annoying when you plant your foot down in a corner etc and the engine just revs (not to mention looking like a right tit!) This was simply because the original rubber gaiter was rather stiff So, the other week at the Triumph/MGF show I picked up a new leatherette boot. (The womans face at the stand when she asked me whether it was for a MGB or Midget was a picture when I told her it was for a Triumph! lol) However, I needed something to hold the boot in place. A piece of 2 mm Aluminium was marked out accordingly, cut out and drilled ready to be screwed in place. The finished result is rather pleasing, not to mention making gear changes far more pleasant as I'm not fighting the rubberyness of the old gaitor
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Mar 23, 2014 20:53:19 GMT
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Dude youre like a bus!!
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Mar 23, 2014 23:22:10 GMT
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A bus?
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