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i keep reading good things about bilt hamber and their hydrate 80 rust solution
to be fair ive tried most rust lotions n potions and they don't seem to do a whole lot
wondered if these guys are differant or just the same old kinda stuff
any comments?
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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I've used some Deox-C before on an exhaust manifold and on a set of calipers. It's bloody brilliant stuff ;D
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Yep
I use pretty much their whole range, Hydrate 80, Deox Gel and their Zinc Primer.
In short, they work and are the best I have tried. Go over to Detailing World to get more info, there is a whole sub section for Bilt Hamber.
I would say however, that like other rust treatments, you can go along way to removing rust with a grinder or a dremmel, these liquids are not magic after all.
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Yep I use pretty much their whole range, Hydrate 80, Deox Gel and their Zinc Primer. In short, they work and are the best I have tried. Go over to Detailing World to get more info, there is a whole sub section for Bilt Hamber. I would say however, that like other rust treatments, you can go along way to removing rust with a grinder or a dremmel, these liquids are not magic after all. yeah saw it on dw...thought id ask on here too , as some things get hyped up a bot on dw ... lets face it there must be plenty of rusty car owners on here  |
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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I used bilt hamber stuff on the midget resto, seems like good stuff.
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I used bilt hamber stuff on the midget resto, seems like good stuff. how longs it been done? been used in the winter? |
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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I have used de-ox gel and hydrate 80 and so far these are the only products that have kept the dreaded at bay (so far, fingers crossed).
Very impressed so far especially as I spent a fair whack on por-15 stuff last year that was pants.
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what are you doing after the hydrate 80??
i was thinking scuff and paint? no point in rust primers as its not touching metal /rust is it
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Can't fault it - half treated headlight bucket:  Not a magic cure though, still needs some work with various wirebrushes on stubborn bits. |
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I've been using the Dynax S50 cavity wax. Very easy to apply (aerosol can with optional long-reach tube) and seems to do the trick too... (well, it does when I actually use it...)
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1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly Other things. Check out my Blog for the latest! www.hubnut.org |
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,515
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I bought a few of their products a couple of months ago. Only used the primer so far but it seems to be great stuff. Really sticky. Smells a fair bit which I reckon is always good thing with paint. The nastier it is the better it probably is at its job  |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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i used the BH powder (deox -c?). worked well for cleaning up rusty parts but i've found that oxalic acid crystals work just as well and works out much cheaper. buy big tubs of it from woodworking suppliers.
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hmm intresting about the crystals...does the diy stores sell em ? not sure I can think of any woodwork places although for parts that remove and soak ive been using electroylolsis (spelling  ) with good results...its more the hidden seams and bits you cant do a good job on I'm intrested in |
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786 
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Been using the Hydrate 80 for a good few years now on both cars and the engines we restore. I've tried many products before but i'd take a lot of convincing of anything better than the Bilt Hamber. VERY impressed with the stuff !!
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All IMO, of course, but this is how I think about rust prevention:
The thing about rust prevention is that it's all in the preparation - and rust 'killers' are the last stage to do before paint. The paint/wax/underseal is the really important bit, as it keeps water away from the metal, which is what stops the rust.
Start by mechanically removing as much of the corrosion as possible, with wire brushes, abrasive paper and flap wheels.
Repair any holes and rotten bits.
Do the mechanical removal bit again.
The rust neutraliser is mostly to remove as much of the rust left in the bottom of the pits in the metal as possible.
Then prime or etch prime (etch is better)
Then top coat multiple times.
However, most serious rust on cars starts in the cavities and box sections (you only need to look at where bubbling happens - where there are moisture traps). Once you have done rot repairs and are happy with the way the car is, apply rust converter to those bits that you haven't replaced, followed by a huge amount of cavity wax.
Underbody is different again. Here the thing to do is to put a really tough paint on, to protect the metal from rust, and then to cover the lot with underseal, to keep mud etc. from coming in contact with the paint.
Underseal and cavity wax really need topping up every year (or maybe two at a push).
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hmm intresting about the crystals...does the diy stores sell em ? not sure I can think of any woodwork places although for parts that remove and soak ive been using electroylolsis (spelling ) with good results...its more the hidden seams and bits you cant do a good job on I'm intrested in got mine from here only cos it was fairly local: www.agwoodcare.co.uk/gbu0-prodshow/oxalic_acid.htmlbought the 5kg tub and last ages - eg a heaped tablspoon is enough to do a badly corroded brake drum |
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) with good results...its more the hidden seams and bits you cant do a good job on I'm intrested in
