Well, since I've made a few pieces of my own, I thought I'd share how I did some of mine. This is how I tackled the front jack mount and jack support for my MK1 Ford Taunus. These are the same on MK3-4-5 Cortinas, so they may be helpful for you guys in the UK also.
First I started with the outer jack support.
The piece I'm trying to replicate looks like this:
Witch goes outside of the inner sill in front of the a-pillar:
First thing you do is to break it down into parts to get the complete part in cardboard, and start cutting out metal plates. I did mine in 1.5mm thick stainless steel, since I had some lying around that I got for free at work:
Then I bent the cradle piece and mocked it up to ensure I've got the correct shape:
And the front strengthening plate:
Then I proceed with the welding. Spot weld everything in place to make sure a good fit, and then completely weld the curse word:
Then mock up the front support plate again, sharpie marker it in the correct position, and drill spot weld holes in the plate.
Spot weld it together, and this is what you get after going over the piece with a wirewheel:
And welded on the car, with the welds ground down:
Good penetration on the inside:
And with a lick of paint on the outer side:
All done Remember, this was some of the first welding I'd done with my new Esaab welder, so the spot welds are questionable. You should have seen my more recent work, it's much better
So, over to the inner jack mount:
Drill out the spot welds and remove the piece:
Quite rotten underneath. I replaced the crusty metal in that area before I started with the Jack mount:
So, this is the piece I wanted to replicate:
Quite crusty eh? The original piece was also made in 0.9mm mild steel, so it was quite weak, and the jack hole elongated during many years of use.
So, then started the CAD again. (Cardboard Aided Design for the n00b5 out there )
I then cut it out from the 1.5mm stainless steel I have lying around, and mocked it up:
Because of the shape of the piece I had this small hole after I bent the plates into shape. I filled the hole with weld, and used an aluminium plate on the back side to help with the welding:
So, after some welding and grinding I had this nearly completed piece:
And after drilling the 27mm holes it looked like this. I still haven't trimmed off the excess material:
For those eagle eyed readers out there you'd probably notice that the hole on the underside of the jackmount isn't in the same place as the original piece. I relocated that hole because the hole on the original piece allowed dirt thrown up from the front wheel to collect inside the jack mount, with no places to escape, creating a dirt and moisture trap. When I relocated the hole it would be directly horizontal/under the jackmount with less chance of water/dirt to be trapped inside of it.
So anyway here is the result, mounted on the car with primer all over it:
And all finished off with a protective coating of black matte Rustoleum paint:
That's all folks. I hope you got some inspiration from this
Tony, I too am one of the many, who signed up here to thank you very,very much for sharing your outstanding talents with us mere mortals. You have inspired me to "try", and to persevere, you have shown what is achieveable, with the most basic of equipment, a little inginuity, and a lot of patience. I was going to treat another unfortunate rust bucket to my caveman welding talents, gallon of isopon and mediocre rattle can "RESTO"- but instead have decided to attempt a few little jobs on my MK3 Zodiac.( My pride and Joy).Up to now I have not had the confidance or the knowledge to tackle any such enterprising ventures, and so- as I have no garage- have sat by and watched her deteoriate slowly, over the years. Thank you, for your inspiration. You are truely a remarkable man- God Bless Your hands. Cheers, Paul.
started having a go myself, but a little stuck on some bits as I don't know what they should look like!
this looks rather worse than I thought initially, should have seen how much seam sealer was in the join at the end of the sill
the sill doesn't meet the inner arch panel inside though I don't know what it should look like at the edge, I can;t check the other side as there's a ton of seam sealer there!
one card template from the other side, drawn onto a piece of steel, added a bit extra for the lip, added a curve till it matched the panel, had a go at bending the lip over but it just wanted to straighten out so I did this -
tacked them all up so it held the right curve, then filled up and ground back with a grinding disc
here it is held in place form the rear with a magnet -
the steel I used was a little thick, so I think I will use some slightly thinner stuff and have another go, I do have a 306 door skin I can cut up
Anybody have a guide to making those awesome recessed holes?
All I do is drill the hole 5-6mm smaller than needed then I clamp a large socket in the vice, lay the panel over the socket and use an socket slightly bigger than the hole and tap it through, then the next size up and so on until you get the recess you desire
So First up took my Drill with a clean and strip disc mounted on it
This is used to clean off the paint and light rust around any suspicious looking areas, these are good in that they don't clog up and they don't wear away the metal like a grinding disc would
Used like this
To Produce this
Also good for identifying where the spot welds are
You can also get them to fit a Mini Grinder
For more aggressive rust and underseal removal, its hard to beat a twist knot wire brush, again fitted to the mini grinder
You must ensure that you wear eye protection with these, and be prepared to spend an evening picking little bits of the wire out of your overalls and hair
You can also get these in a cup type, these can be bit more work to use as their not as balanced on the grinder as the flat ones, but can get into tighter spots if needed
For Lighter and Tighter work, you can use a rotary wire brush on the drill, these are available in a huge range of sizes and shapes, and its surprising just how good they are getting rid of the last bits of rust in a tight spot
One thing worth mentioning when using a drill with any of these attachments, is , if you have a choice don't use your best drill, all these tools exert a sideways force on the bearing of your drill, and their not really designed for that, so after a few months of hard use, its not uncommon for the bearings in your drill to be shot
So once thats done, its time to cut the panel off, so a 125mm (4.5") grinder is my weapon of choice
These can be mounted with the very thin 1mm thick slitting discs
These do wear down quite quickly, but can really slice through metal quickly and neatly
You do need to be careful with them as they can shatter if any sideways load is put on them, so if its any cutting that might involve a bit of twisting or gouging then I tend to use these thicker 2.5mm thick discs
Not as neat a cut is the 1mm discs, but good for cutting through old welds and anywhere that a bit awkward
this then leaves us with the 5mm thick grinding discs
Probably the least used disc in my arsenal, but used for grinding down welds or heavy gauge steel, prior to using something finer
That brings us neatly onto the various sanding options
First off is the Flap disc, these ones are 60 grit which is coarse enough to take down welds etc
These are quite easy to use, but can leave a surface that is not 100% flat
Another option would be sanding discs on a flexible backing pad
36 grit is the coarse one
120 grit is the fine one
These must be used with caution if sanding body panels or thin steel, as it can be very easy to grind through, or gouge the steel your working on
Alternatively if space is tight, my trusted power file is an all time favourite, I often wonder how I would manage without it
Belts of varying thickness and grits are available, my most commonly used one is 12mm wide x 36 grit, these are perfect for cleaning up rust and grinding down welds in hard to reach areas
All of the above are likely to leave your work piece with flat spots or gouges
so then I go over them with my DA Sander normally with an 80 grit disc fitted
This gets everything nice and rounded and smooth, ready for paint or filler
Next is not really part of this job yet, but seems like an ideal opportunity to get it mentioned now
Its a toffee wheel stripe remover for use in a drill, used like this
It removes the stripes without damaging the paint
But use it on a slow speed, as too fast can burn the paint, these are a lot quicker and safer than using a scraper or solvent to remove them
As with all of these Please wear appropriate eye, ear and hand protection when using them
Loving this thread Tony! Its become my go-to guide for all things bodywork!
I've been looking at buying a 4.5" angle grinder for a while now, just never got round to it
If I could bug you with some more questions that'd be awesome ;D
Do you have any brands you swear by or avoid like the plague? What features should I be looking out for?
It's got to do a very rusty Range Rover so I want one that'll last the distance
I've got a couple of the Blue Bosch ones, and they've never let me down, and their not stupidly expensive
I once bought a cheap £10 one from a local DIY superstore, but took it back a day later, it vibrated like mad, you get what you pay for I guess with stuff like this No special features I can think of, most have spindle lock these days, so that you can change the discs without tools
Hope that helps, but they are a definite must have if your doing a restoration, so get one sooner rather than later