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My advice, seriously, is to ask some of your excellent questions off the world wide web. Ask some of the repair shop owners who know these things from a "practical" POV. - Sound advice TB  definitely something I should be doing. I really need to know exactly what can / can't be done (legally & practically) before making any decisions. Can anyone recommend me a bodyshop (or 2) in / near to Worthing / Brighton / Sussex area? HC. |
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you should be ok regrding BIVA as your replacing parts with stock parts, ie its a repair, NOT a modification, as far as the shell goes, as you pointed out ringing does happen, but legally you'll need to keep the reg that comes with the shell and notify DVLA of the engine change, you'll get the log book back saying 2.8 on it, but the chassis number will give away the fact its not an original one, it will effect the value eventually, in the same way an original Escort Mexico is worth a lot more than a 1300 shell built up to Mex spec is. Insurance should not be a problem, companies like Footman james will just insure it as a stock 2.8 if thats what it mostly is anyway.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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If that were mine, I'd try pulling it out before reshelling. If it aint do-able then at least you'd have tried and all you've lost is time. In the past we've used a building with steel stanchions, several stout lengths of chain to fix the car to the stanchions, and nothing more high-tech than one of those lever type chain tensioners. Drill a hole, attach a bolt and eye, pull it out bit by bit. It's a little tedious but it can work and it can save a car. Hi bud, tbh I'm still torn as to weather or not to give fixing it a go. I have no doubt that the damaged area itself could be pulled out / cut out & repaired / replaced BUT (big but) it's the ripple in the roof, pushed in rear quarter (neither of which were hit in the crash) & the panel gaps all round the car being fekked that are the concern. I'm gonna give Screech's plum-bob & chalk technique a go & see what that tells me... I appreciate that with just a couple of crappy pictures on here it's hard for you guys to see anything so I really appreciate everyone's input  Anyone that wants to pop round for a cup of tea is more than welcome of course  you should be ok regrding BIVA as your replacing parts with stock parts, ie its a repair, NOT a modification, as far as the shell goes, as you pointed out ringing does happen, but legally you'll need to keep the reg that comes with the shell and notify DVLA of the engine change, you'll get the log book back saying 2.8 on it, but the chassis number will give away the fact its not an original one, it will effect the value eventually, in the same way an original Escort Mexico is worth a lot more than a 1300 shell built up to Mex spec is. Insurance should not be a problem, companies like Footman james will just insure it as a stock 2.8 if thats what it mostly is anyway. Thanks PopUp - that makes me feel much better & is pretty much in line with what I thought. We don't want to modify anything, just move all the components over so I had really hoped (and largely presumed) that this wouldn't put us in BIVA territory. Using the logbook that comes with the shell and having the DVLA record it as a 2.8 would be perfect. Re. value, I realise it'll never be worth as much as a genuine 2.8i but I guess that's something he'll have to live with. At the moment if you take out the shiny engine it's not worth very much at all...  Thank you! HC. |
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TBH I would not bother repairing a Capri Mk3 which has damage to the roof and has folded under the seatbelt mount. Even if you get it straight I would not want to offer a 100% guarantee that metal bent, stretched, reformed, and beaten would offer the same strength as the original panel should the car be unfortunate enough to be in another crash. And if there was talk of a babyseat on that seatbelt I would want to make 100% damn sure the belt would remain anchored.
OK there are ways to deal with this, mostly ways involving welding new floor sections in and lets face it most Mk3s in the UK have welded rust repairs to the seatbelt mount anyway...
They are never the same after a crash anyway.
I'd find a 1600 Laser or whatever, transfer all the good bits over and weigh in the rest. Shame that its one less non-rusty Capri out there but its for the best I think.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Capri shell on the bay, BUY IT NOW, £300, has doors ect
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Thanks for explaing HC, seems a bum deal but I can't tell, not knowing the ins and outs etc.
Anyway, the value is a major concern in my eyes in future terms - I'd be getting fussy and seeking out a 2.8 shell. Sure it'll maybe cost a bit more, but I think it would be worth it.
Failing that, if you use a Laser body, I reckon take it a step further than a 2.8. Perhaps some bespoke parts and/or extra body bracing. It'll kinda make up for not being the 'right' shell, because it's a better built shell. Dunno if that makes sense.
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TBH I would not bother repairing a Capri Mk3 which has damage to the roof and has folded under the seatbelt mount. Even if you get it straight I would not want to offer a 100% guarantee that metal bent, stretched, reformed, and beaten would offer the same strength as the original panel should the car be unfortunate enough to be in another crash. And if there was talk of a babyseat on that seatbelt I would want to make 100% damn sure the belt would remain anchored. OK there are ways to deal with this, mostly ways involving welding new floor sections in and lets face it most Mk3s in the UK have welded rust repairs to the seatbelt mount anyway... They are never the same after a crash anyway. I'd find a 1600 Laser or whatever, transfer all the good bits over and weigh in the rest. Shame that its one less non-rusty Capri out there but its for the best I think. Exactly my concerns buddy - I'm pretty much there with considering this shell a gonner. The search is very much on! Capri shell on the bay, BUY IT NOW, £300, has doors ect I've got quite a few on my watch list but none at £300 - could you send me the link? It seems I whack at eBay searching.. HC. |
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If you're using all Ford bits (which it sounds like you are) then you shouldn't need any of the SIVA stuff etc as you are repairing the car, not modifying it.
If you find a 2.8i shell with a V5, then transfer all the bits over and MOT it using the identity of the 'new' car, and it remains an original 2.8i.
If you find a 1600 Laser or whatever with V5, or even an Mot'd running one, just transfer all the bits over, register the engine change on the new car's V5, Mot it and off you go - however the insurer (I would use a classic or mod friendly one) needs to know it that it may have been a 1600 Laser once but it's now effectively a 2.8i.
Whichever option to pick depends on how much you want to pay for the shell and how soon you want to get back on the road.
When I first saw the crashed shell I though 'that might pull out' (looking at the sill), but the roof, rear end and screen damage tells me it's not worth bothering.
Half decent Capri shells are not that rare, compared to many other cars out there.
Anyway Good luck with whatever you plan to do.
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Thanks for explaing HC, seems a bum deal but I can't tell, not knowing the ins and outs etc. Anyway, the value is a major concern in my eyes in future terms - I'd be getting fussy and seeking out a 2.8 shell. Sure it'll maybe cost a bit more, but I think it would be worth it. Failing that, if you use a Laser body, I reckon take it a step further than a 2.8. Perhaps some bespoke parts and/or extra body bracing. It'll kinda make up for not being the 'right' shell, because it's a better built shell. Dunno if that makes sense. Yeah - I think you're right mate. I guess it just depends on what comes up. Also I think I'm right in saying all the 2.8i were built in Germany (& therefore 'in theory' better built) whereas with the 'lower' models it's more of a lottery. Of course 20yrs down the line most of these things become academic and it's more down to the particular car & what kind of life it's lead.. If you're using all Ford bits (which it sounds like you are) then you shouldn't need any of the SIVA stuff etc as you are repairing the car, not modifying it. If you find a 2.8i shell with a V5, then transfer all the bits over and MOT it using the identity of the 'new' car, and it remains an original 2.8i. If you find a 1600 Laser or whatever with V5, or even an Mot'd running one, just transfer all the bits over, register the engine change on the new car's V5, Mot it and off you go - however the insurer (I would use a classic or mod friendly one) needs to know it that it may have been a 1600 Laser once but it's now effectively a 2.8i. Whichever option to pick depends on how much you want to pay for the shell and how soon you want to get back on the road. When I first saw the crashed shell I though 'that might pull out' (looking at the sill), but the roof, rear end and screen damage tells me it's not worth bothering. Half decent Capri shells are not that rare, compared to many other cars out there. Anyway Good luck with whatever you plan to do. Thanks dude - the good news is I guess we're in no massive rush (the weather is starting to get gash anyway) but would like to get going on something when the right shell / project comes up. Maybe a RR: BBQ / curse word up / Capri re-shelling party weekender is on the agenda for the new year ;D HC. |
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i'm sure all mk3 capri's were built in germany,good luck and keep us posted with the resurection
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Nov 10, 2009 10:11:13 GMT
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Nov 10, 2009 10:12:09 GMT
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Nov 10, 2009 10:40:07 GMT
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Ahh yes, I had seen that one - thanks for posting it up mate. I'm not adverse to travelling a fair way for the 'right' car (picked my Granny up from deepest darkest Wales) but Preston is about 5hrs each way from me  that one looks like it needs quite a bit too - I'm really hoping to find something that needs little welding before the re-shell  HC. |
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Nov 10, 2009 11:06:34 GMT
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Just in case anyone on here has / knows of anything that could be what we're looking for I have put up a wanted add HC. |
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Nov 10, 2009 12:49:23 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 10, 2009 12:49:54 GMT by looking
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Nov 10, 2009 12:51:55 GMT
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^^ that looks ideal, even if it needs some rust repairs its allready stripped and would make a nice finished car with the right chassis numbers to keep its value.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Nov 10, 2009 13:15:57 GMT
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Ooooh - that is awesome. Looks a bargain too Gonna message the dude for more details & call my Bro (I've got a funny feeling he doesn't like X-Packs ) - will see what he says; could be quite a mission! ;D HC. |
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Nov 10, 2009 13:28:52 GMT
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Oh that's the ticket. I'm sure the X-pack kit would come off easily enough if that was necessary - wouldn't it? Or do panels get cut to fit one on?
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Nov 10, 2009 13:34:07 GMT
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depends how well its been fitted, front wings are normally a replacement, the back ones are bonded on so the quarter panel is still underneath, however if you want to get properly big wheels under there you need to cut the arch lips off the original quarters and tub them out to the x pack arch.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Nov 10, 2009 14:24:38 GMT
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Ok, so as I suspected my bro really doesn't like x-packs (fec knows why.. weirdo ) But the good news is I'm going to look at this on Friday morning ;D (big THANKS to DaveJ for the spot & heads up) At first glace I thought it was a little pricey but having spoken to the seller (who, on first impression seems like a decent guy) and the required little bits of work could be negotiated in the price plus he can deliver it to our workshop. I guess even if it is a little dear it is only down the road so I'll save possibly hundreds in getting it home... Will see how it goes & report back.. HC. |
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definitely something I should be doing. I really need to know exactly what can / can't be done (legally & practically) before making any decisions.
that one looks like it needs quite a bit too - I'm really hoping to find something that needs little welding before the re-shell 