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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Mar 24, 2010 22:10:32 GMT
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Sleeperviva - That would be great, but I don't know if that's a straight bolt-in job?
Rob0r - I did think about a BMW engine, and I would love to do something like that, but I really can't have another full-on custom engine swap on my hands. Maybe for the future though (or maybe a Saab turbo...)
Paul - The oil pressure has always been OK, even at idle. If the light was on just at idle I'd probably be thinking that it may have slightly low pressure, but seeing as it came on and stayed on whilst going 50-60mph and at upto 4000rpm, for 120 miles or more, and the engine is still in one pice (or rather, not welded into one solid piece), leads me to believe it's the oil pressure switch that is at fault and that the actual oil pressure is all OK.
DW - It was the green (well, it should be green but the lense has fell off! ;D) light, definitely oil pressure. The red ignition light does flicker at idle occasionally but like you say, that's fairly normal.
Alistair - I'd love to do that, but as said above I don't know if the 2.5 is a straight bolt in job. However, you've hit the nail on the head really: I've got to choose between having a modified retro car, or a fairly standard one that I can do motorsport in. For the forseeable, the car will remain pretty much as it is, due to lack of time and money, but it doesn't hurt to build cars in your head from time to time! ;D
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,514
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Mar 24, 2010 22:15:48 GMT
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If you decided to go the non standard route how about a small Japanese engine I've really got no experience of the six cylider engines or boxes so can't really help with suggestions there. If you did go for a 1300 Triumph engine for tuning you really need to go for a 13/60 Herald one or a Spitfire Mk3. Later 1300 engines got the bigger cranks bearings (like the 1500s) and so are not as rev happy.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Mar 24, 2010 22:23:28 GMT
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Or a 1300 FWD engine with toledo clutch and box slightly less power if you go for single zenith stromberg or slightly more if you go for a TC version. Also slightly smaller crank than herald and stock will rev to 7000rpm 9000 is possible with a bit of fettling.
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Mar 24, 2010 23:25:29 GMT
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I'm surprised that it doesn't have an oil gauge. As for the sender, I've had loads of fun with them on the Amazon - each lasted only three years before going mental, probably due to close proximity to the exhaust downpipes, so I fitted a gauge (about £75 all in inc VAT & p+p from Mini Spares, for a brand new Smiths gauge, adaptors and braided hose), which gives a much better warning of impending doom, rather than the your engine died two miles ago light....
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Mar 24, 2010 23:42:26 GMT
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Surely the oil pressure light should be orange? I too have ditched the light for a gauge...
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Even this is better than getting your ass kicked by seasoned production class competitors AND having to downgrade to a smaller engine. The potential for a plastic trophy just isn't enough incentive.
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nope oil pressure light is green on triumphs and the bond is triumph in a frock. Fitting a gauge is a good idea personally I would use an electronic one rather than a capilary as theres no chance of your footwells becoming a new engine sump
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Mar 25, 2010 10:56:25 GMT
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Even this is better than getting your ass kicked by seasoned production class competitors AND having to downgrade to a smaller engine. The potential for a plastic trophy just isn't enough incentive. Haha! I like your reasoning, and I am fond of the sound of the straight six (when all six are firing anyway...) I'm going to look into fitting a gauge if I can find one cheap enough. I've been raiding the garage for various parts that I've kept but not had a suitable car to fit it to, so I've got some interesting modifications / enhancements coming up. I'll get a few pics up. Also, I just received news from Lizardking that he has finished a titanium alloy lowering block he's been making for me, which I'm very excited about!
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Last Edit: Mar 26, 2010 0:36:28 GMT by BenzBoy
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rysz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,554
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Mar 25, 2010 12:25:34 GMT
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Lowering block? I point my learned colleague in the direction of this: I can hear your exhaust scraping from here! Side exit? Rysz.
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,626
Club RR Member Number: 1
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Mar 25, 2010 13:39:34 GMT
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Naa right up through the cabin LOL
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Mar 25, 2010 14:57:00 GMT
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Haha! I have a plan for the exhaust - I've had an aluminium Micron bike can in the garage for years. I'm going to replace the baffles and mount that at an upswept angle, tucked up so it isn't in harms way. It's staying centre-exit though, I love that look.
I badly need to get the stance right though, it has a weird jacked up look at the moment and I don't think it does it any favours. Not going too low, just 3/4in so it sits level with the front.
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,000
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Mar 25, 2010 19:15:44 GMT
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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Just caught up on all your fun and games with the Bond. I admire your perseverance and positive attitude.
I agree about the motorsport. It will never be a trophy winner (unless you spend a fortune) so just aim to have a fun day out - build the spec you want, and so-what if you finish well down the list behind some race cars?
If you can find a good, running Triumph 2.5 engine that would be the sensible route (e.g. buy a rotted out, but not thrashed, 2500 saloon). If you have a bit of luck and buy carefully, you might solve the carb, oil light and lack of power issues in one go (how's that for optimisim!)
Glad the handling has improved. Actually, it's probably because the new sidewalls are more, not less, flexible that the old ones. You need the flexibility with a the swing-axle's camber change.
I'd suggest that lowering (+ exhaust mod for clearance) should happen before the power boost!
Cheers
John
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Thanks guys! To be honest I've slightly fallen out with it, but it's just a temporary "lovers tiff" ;D. It flooded and wouldn't restart one night which forced me to abandon mission, and then the next day it cut out in the middle lane of an A-road. The carbs were to blame for the flooding but I think that pesky distributor problem, with the wire / points assembly coming loose, caused the other fault. Both easily remedied really. Lizardking has very kindly made me a titanium steel lowering block which I got yesterday. I'm now formulating a plan. I really need to rebuild the carbs. I've tried to get hold of a second set to rebuild so as not to immobilise the car but I'm thinking now that I might as well just take the plunge and rebuild these ones. I'm trying to get hold of a hand reamer so that I can sort the leaking throttle spindles out as I reckon that's a major source of the problems along with worn jets and needles. Whilst it's off the road, I'm going to drop the whole back axle assembly and kill many birds with one stone. I really need to fix a wheel bearing that's been grumbling and grinding for a while. I also have a leaky pinion seal on the diff, and when I've done all that I can slip the lowering block in there too! I just need to find some longer 3/8 UNF studs (3.5 inches long, so I've read) I'll then need to tuck the exhaust up out of the way but I have a plan brewing for that too. I also need to find the time to do all this! ;D The nicer weather is on the way so hopefully I can find a sunny couple of days to crack on with it.
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If you're mucking about at the back, how easy is it to make the mod to a 'swing-spring' back end? Reduces the possibility of wheel tuck. In my dreams, I was going to fit an entire Spitfire 1500 back end so the gearing would be taller (not desirable for hillclimbing though!) and it'd tame things in the handling department too.
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1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly Other things. Check out my Blog for the latest! www.hubnut.org
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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I think the swing spring conversion is relatively easy, DW. I think there's a difference in the rear track on Spitties (possibly?) but that's even better seeing as there's about 3 hectares of space between the sidewall and the wheelarch on the back! ;D
I'll see what state the driveshaft is in when I do the bearings, cos if it's the inner needle-roller that's gone then the shaft in FUBAR'd and I'd need to replace anyway. But cash is tight so if I can get away with it, I'll try to keep the current set-up.
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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If you're mucking about at the back, how easy is it to make the mod to a 'swing-spring' back end? Reduces the possibility of wheel tuck. In my dreams, I was going to fit an entire Spitfire 1500 back end so the gearing would be taller (not desirable for hillclimbing though!) and it'd tame things in the handling department too. I've not seen the swing-spring mod, but I can envisage what you mean. Similar geometry effect to a compensator spring across the swinging arms, a la Porsche 356. Does the spring pivot freely or is there resistance built in? If it moves freely, wouldn't you lose too much roll-stiffness? If you have any further info/links I'd like to see. I know it's sad, but such things interest me! Cheers John
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,514
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Our Heralds spring is held down (with the lowering block) using bolts of the right length rather than studs and nuts. If you fit a swing spring you do loose all the roll stiffness as the spring pivots freely in the centre so you need to fit a stiffer front anti roll bar. I don't know quite what the Strombergs are like to re-build but the experiences I've had with SUs has been that the throttle spindles wear much more than the carb body and so new spindles eliminate virtually all play from that area. Hope the rear end work doesn't take too long.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Our Heralds spring is held down (with the lowering block) using bolts of the right length rather than studs and nuts. That's good to know - I could have some 3/8 UNF bolts in stock, or at least be able to get hold of them easily enough. I'm waiting for the right time to take the plunge with the carbs and th back end - I have to wait until I have money, parts, time and Jupiter has aligned with the sun. The Strombergs don't look too bad to rebuild to be honest. I can get all the bits I need, I just have to figure out whether it's standard procedure to put bushes in the throttle spindle assembly, use oversize spindles, or whether the spindles wear before the bodies as you said. It shouldn't be too bad anyway. Ain't looking forward to the back end, but it needs to be done and if it comes out looking better for being lowered aswell, I'm all for that! ;D
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1967 Bond Equipe GT4SBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Right, I've been trying to gather together the parts to fix the Bond's various ailments. It's been off the road for a couple of weeks because of the carb problems, and a binding front caliper. The rear wheel bearing has also been nagging me and I've been reluctant to take it far because of that. Here's a shot of some of the parts I've amassed so far: ^ Rear wheelbearing, carb service kits, caliper seal kit, and 16 MGF / Rover 100 wheel studs, which are needed for the Slotmags. I decided to tackle the carbs first... ^ Stripped front carb ^ 40-odd years of muck in the float bowl ^ That'll be a slightly worn throttle spinde then! I had got ready with the micrometer to check for wear but it was obvious! This is the source of most of the running problems! You were right Seth, the spindles wear faster than the bodies! Had a very informative chat with Andrew Turner who supplied the service kits. I'll be getting the new spindles etc from him too. Very knowledgeable guy! After spending some time cleaning everything and installing the various seals, gaskets and O-rings, it was all back together again... ^ One carb down, one to go. I've not got the new throttle spindles and butterflies yet but once they're bought and installed I can bolt 'em up and fire her up! I had planned to get paint and other things but I ran out of cash. I have enough to keep me busy though! I'll be tackling the back axle next - Wheel bearing, lowering block, pinion seal and new, bigger wheel studs. Not relishing the thought of it to be honest but it's gotta be done! I've got a scheme in mind for the paint which I'm quite excited about, I'm finding it hard to live with the yellow Dulux job! It'll mean sorting the door bottoms out beforehand but they look pretty straight forward repairs. Getting there, slowly! More soon...
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Last Edit: May 9, 2010 20:21:26 GMT by BenzBoy
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