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Anyone got some online info about stuff so I can upgrade the discs in the Ventora. I already have the best the factory offered, big solids and 2 pots, so I'm thinking of going to vents with 4 pots as the whole lot needs a rebuild anyway.
Had a look at Hi-Spec Motorsports webby, anyone know of anywhere else I can see and price up parts needed for the conversion (it will be a bespoke one unless I bore out a Firenze conversion for the larger Ventora bearings...)
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Don't suppose Carlton/Senator ones would go close? what about good old Volvo ones that fit everything?
Oh and what about Godspeed Brakes, do they do a Brembo conversion set?
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том
Posted a lot
"If in doubt, flat out!"
Posts: 2,707
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how much effort is it to change from drums to disks?
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1988 V8 Rangey Bobtail :: 1968 Volvo Amazon 133 Ratrod :: 1977 Land Rover 88 :: 1985 Opel Monza GSE :: 1983 MKII Fiesta
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Senator stuff, dunno, Ibet its all metric bored and stuff though so probably will be an a*se
I believe Senator stuff can be adapted to the FE thoguh, I know the Carlton stuff bolts pretty much right up.
Dunno about the Volvo stuff, again metric stuff on an imperial car?
Tom - if you have the drum brake FD then you will need the stub axles off an FD Victor with discs, VX 4/90 or IIRC Viva GT (HB) goes straight on and so do later Viva GLS (HC). These all work with the stock ball joints. You can then fit the stock FD disc and calipers to these. If you want to use Ventora brakes you need the Ventora stub axles and lower wishbones and need to use the bigger 6 pot spec ball joints which are getting quite hard to find these days.
Do Godspeed have a website, I'll go Google. Notlooking to spend a fortune. I ran a tuned 350 Chevy on Ventora stock brakes before and it was useable, but not great, although a lot of that was down to the stall speed in the torque converter coupled with the cam that needed the motor to tickover at about 1200 RPM which meant you always had drive, and lots of it...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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том
Posted a lot
"If in doubt, flat out!"
Posts: 2,707
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ahh, so its case of changing the whole axle, not just the brakes, cool.
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1988 V8 Rangey Bobtail :: 1968 Volvo Amazon 133 Ratrod :: 1977 Land Rover 88 :: 1985 Opel Monza GSE :: 1983 MKII Fiesta
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I dunno if the discs and the drums have the same bearing dia, but the mounting braket for the caliper is cast into the upright of the stub axle. On the drum brake cars it has a 4 bolt flat pattern to attach the backing plate for the drum assembly.
Its an easy job, just spin the nuts off the bottom ball joint, split the top one and the stub axle comes away. You just need access to the parts, and they are getting fairly thn on the ground for the older Vx's now.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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