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>>>>> CHECK OUT THE SECOND PAGE >>>>>>> I saw this on ebay yesterday and really liked the look of it. The problem is that I already have the Z which I'm in the process of pulling apart and getting re-bored, and my little honda is taking it hard as well and is in serious need of a re-build. Anyway, I saw this, really liked it, and put a snipe bid in that I thought it would sell for more and that was that. Got home later on and checked the bay and shock horror! It's mine! Check it out. It was originally going to be an on going project bike for Back Street Heros, but something happened and it never made it to print. Forks and wheels are from a KLZ650, the frame is obviously custom built by some engineer dude in the midlands. The engine is a GPZ550 which was re-built last year with new rings, a honeing, re-ground valves/valve seats and new gaskets ect. New heavy weight clutch, electric ignition and new oil rad, and it hasn't been run since. Apparently it comes with a loom off a GPZ, both calipers ect and a few other bits. I love bobbers, but most are far too low for my liking. I like to see whats going on, and I can't stand footpegs that are way out front. This one to me has got the perfect stance - like an old brit. What do you reckon?
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2010 15:57:41 GMT by manbearpig
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Thats lovely, really liking that.
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Its got potential! I think it would look good with the forks dropped about 30mm through the yokes and clip-on bars giving it a more raked appearance.
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,027
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I'm liking the choice of engine ;D good strong lump! Nice little project, does it have any plates or paperwork?
Steve
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I say all it needs is some ape hangers
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Yeah, as far as the stance goes, I'm not changing anything. I really like they way it looks a bit military at the moment. Papers - no, but it shouldn't be too hard to sort out a Q plate. Well, I told the misses - she took it remarably well which is awesome considering.
So, the plans are to first get it back here, then basicly mock it up with the loom and see if I can get it fired up. Engine should run like a jem once I've pumped a bit of oil around, but the carbs and carb balancing may be an issue, and the fact that I don't have an exhaust. I'm watching an old downpipe for a GPZ1000 on ebay at the moment. The plan is to cut off all the downpipes and run them as 4 separate exhausts, which I will then extend and either put some straight throughs on, or stick some silencers on for the MOT. Once I've got it running I can mock up the rest of the bike - brakes, electrical system, clocks (need a speedo and cable from a KLX650), then get some lights on it and apply for a plate/mot ect. Once it's all built and legal, I will strip it down and powder coat the frame, dress the engine and paint the tank/fenders ect. I'm watching an old vintage shell petrol can at the moment which will become the battery and electrics box. If I can, I will also get the 'supermoto' wheels for the front as well (smaller and wider) - but I haven't even seen it in the flesh yet, and I think I like the one already on it. Colour scheme is going to be gloss black and English white. Black frame, calipers, engine casings and rocker cover, English white tank, fenders and engine block. Light is going to be a 5.5" bates - old school bobber.
Now then. Who owns much about GPZ's? My question is - does the 550 have the same size bore down pipe/flanges as the 1000? Ta.
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Don't know for sure weather or not the 1000 pipes will fit the 550, but i think not as the middle weights (400 to 600) have similar dna, they are different to the 750-1100. stick with the tall wheels, 17" will look a bit lost and undersized, the one thing i might consider is narrowing the rear part of the frame
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Nice one, thanks. The other option is to get someone to make me a custom system out of stainless, but thats going to cost money I just don't have. I'll keep on the look out for some old 550 headers which I can chop up, or a 4 into 2 setup.
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I do love this ;D, cant wait for proper progress
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Well, I got the bike back the other day and I'm more than happy with it. The dude said he had put a new EBC heavy duty clutch and new genuine kawa rings in it and ground the valves/seats - which is anyones guess really on a bike bought from ebay that isn't actually plumbed to run. However, looking through the box of bits there was a brand new EBC clutch box with some old clutch plates in it and 4 new kawa rings boxes with the old rings in - so he was telling the truth - top bloke!
In other news, I think I'm going to have to change the front wheel. With the rake on the forks as it is, there is too much weight on the front wheel - on the axsis that it turns on. It literaly snatches the bars from your hands if your not careful. To remedy this, I've been eyeing up the possibility of gettting some super-moto rims on there. They're well sexy, but massivly exspensive - and I want to powder coat the rims in pillarbox red anyway. My thinking is that by putting on a 17" wheel instead of the 21" that is on it, that should give me a 2" drop at the front end, and look far better in my opinion. The drop should go some way to reducing the rake/weight dispersion, reducing the 'snatch factor'. I also plan to stick a gas damper strut to further reduce the likely hood of the front end twisting away.
Does anyoneknow anyone who has any supermoto wheels for a KLX650? Bit of a long shot...
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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the 'snatch factor' as you call it is a factor of the increased rake giving large trail.. the way to reduce it is to reduce the trail.. this is why springers etc are good on raked bikes.. the only way to sort this on tele forks on a raked bike is to fit offsett yokes which will make the front look even more raked..... that will cure the "rise and fall" you are getting as you stear..
or ruduce rake or fit springers/leading link/girders fork sliders with the wheel pivots on front of forks.. basically you need to move the front axle pivot forwards.. without incresing rake any more.. si
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Apr 10, 2010 19:49:28 GMT
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Hmmmm.
How do you mean change the pivot of the front wheel to further forwards? I can see what you mean, I just don't know how I would go about it without radicly changing the front end. Can you think of any examples I can peep at?
Cheers
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Apr 10, 2010 20:28:49 GMT
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the least painful way forward is to make custom tee-pieces with the right trail/rake, but I'd hold off until you've actually driven this thing, lots of bike have a little snatch, handle bar turn inwards when you lean, correct? maybe try a flatter rear tyre or a pointer front, don't ask why, I just know this works from experience, what exact size tyre are on there now?
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Apr 10, 2010 23:54:49 GMT
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I don't know at the mo - to be honest I stuck it in the garage when I got it back here, then I've been on the night shifts ever since. I think it has the original tyres from the KLX650, so at a guess, 100 or 90/90/21 on the front? The problem is that I can't really spend much money on it and my fabrication capabilities are limited at the moment (lack of machinery, the right tools, and a welder), so yeah - terraroot, I think I'll get it running and go for a blast before I make any descisions. What's there at the moment is good enough for the SVA. I do like the supermoto rims though, and the fron't wheel is a big too big for my taste so if I can find some at the right price (not very likely), then I will get them anyway.
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Try airing down the rear for a start, it's usually the rear tyre that's the wrong size. Some thing useful:
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Nice one mate, cheers. A very good little diagram that. I would probably have to make a modified tree/yoke as the fork legs are pretty big in diameter. I'm having trouble seeing how this would work though (but obviously it does) - surely by changing the tree it would have the same effect as chaging the headstock angle? or would it not? I always thought the problem is because by having such a rake on the forks you are effectivly turning the front wheel more side to side than actually steering from left to right? Would a smaller front wheel not make this better by bringing the front end down a bit (effectivly like lifting the rear, reducing the rake?)
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Apr 11, 2010 10:01:06 GMT
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Apr 11, 2010 20:44:38 GMT
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Yeah, I love the rake and the way it looks - it was one of the deciders that made me buy it, but I'm just worried it might be a bit moody in corners at speed, or manovering around traffic. Nice bikes! Love that chubby front end look Thanks for all the input btw
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Apr 11, 2010 21:04:39 GMT
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Right. For those who haven't seen the tool co-op debarcle thread, this is why I want the pipe bender. You will have to excuse the photoshop - it's done on some crappy draw program, but it gets the point across. this would obviously be on the other side as well. Bottom pipes from the outside cylinders, top wrap around pipes from the inner cylinders, all wrapped in exhuast wrap. Do you reckon mild steel would do it ok? or should I get some zinc coated stuff?
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Last Edit: Apr 11, 2010 21:05:55 GMT by manbearpig
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Apr 11, 2010 21:53:31 GMT
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mild will be fine, many bike are mouldering piles of poo by the time there standard mild steel pipes rust out and your unlikely to do mega mileage in the rain and salt with a hard tail, eh?
don't worry to much about the handling, concentrate on pipes carbs and ignition,drive it a bit then make plans. if you had positive trail it would a very dangerous thing to drive, yours just has too much negative, so it's not moody or dangerous just (quite) a bit heavy to turn at speed, you won't need a steering damper if your not gonna change the rake angle.
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