Chipped driveshaft - advice please!

[BenzBoy]

Hey all, I've got the rear axle apart on the Bond, and I've noticed that the keyway in the end of the driveshaft has a couple of chips out of it.
The key still locates in the keyway, but I was wondering if it's OK to still use it, or if I need a new driveshaft?

[MrSpeedy]

You'd probably 'get away with it' but far from ideal. Not exactly in short supply, so personally i'd be looking at repair/replacement. That way it's done for another 30 odd years trouble/worry free !

[Dez]

i woundnt use that. its too far gone.

[BenzBoy]

Thankyou fellas. The parts list keeps growing... New ones are about 60 notes but I'll see if I can get a good 2nd hand one.

[Blown_Imp]

The keyway should not actually do anything if it is correctly designed, it is just an assembly location feature, once torqued up the surface friction would take all the strain.

Considering that the keyway root is lower than the lowest point of current fracture, you might get away with it, just clean it all up so there are no sharp edges to concentrate the strain.

J

[BenzBoy]

Hmm, I see what you mean. I'll check it over some more tomorrow to see if there are any cracks. I also need to inspect the one on the other side, it might be as bad or worse!
I'll see what prices for used ones are like...

[berny]

just a thought but could you not fill the chips with weld and grind back as its only a locational groove?

[BenzBoy]

Berny, I'm not sure whether welding will make the steel brittle. I'm also not sure what fractures lie in wait for me...

[93fxdl]

as said before the key shouldnt do anything once assembled as the taper should transfer the torque
but a couple of options could be
get a fresh slot cut at 180 degrees
swap shafts over from side to side so any loads are against the good side of the slot
also it might be an idea to lap the parts together to ensure the best possible fit
ttfn glenn

[BenzBoy]

I understand what you and Blown_Imp are saying about the keyway only being a locator and not supposed to take and stress, but it looks to me as though the key has been taking some of the driving force, in order to break the keyway.
The hub nuts were not nearly as tight as they were supposed to be, and the driveshaft was not tight in the hub at all. I'd put that down to the bearing being worn but perhaps the loose assembly meant the key was being made to take the torque and has fractured it?
I'm no engineer, so I stand to be corrected.

[MrSpeedy]

I can't remember or see clearly what the shaft end detail is like on them, but either way it looks in pretty poor condition and if it is supposed to be a driving taper then I'd say that's why the keyway is knackered cos there's no way that shaft will drive the hub by friction alone ! I'd have a shufty at e-gay cos there's always rear axles / shafts / rolling chassis on there for reasonable money

[Seth]

Hmm, I wonder if that's been knackered by previous dismantling abuse? The thread on the end doesn't look too clever either. I don't think I'd risk the time involved in having to do it all again if/when it fails and would stump up the cash for a new/better one to do it right this time.

[BenzBoy]

It was a total PITA to dismantle the rear end, so yeah, I really want to put everything back and know that I'll never have to go through it all again! ;D
New shaft/s look to be on the agenda then. Old cars eh?!

[robg2]

That's knackered - thread is no good in addition to the keyway.