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Sept 28, 2010 13:04:42 GMT
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Air is lighter than rust is lighter than steel but steel is stronger than rust is stronger than air ;D The Dyane is starting to reveal it's grotty bits, and they'll be sorted in coming weeks, but I really need to get some rustproofing done on it before the weather really turns and the roads start to taste salty. Exposed surfaces don't worry me too much, though they do need treating, but the innards of my chassis really need some protection. Things to consider... My budget is small, and I don't have a compressor. I know some people still pump used engine oil about, and I see no reason why not to if it's done annually. It's an oil, afterall, so will repel water and stick to metal nicely. It's also free/very cheap Proper cavity waxes. Waxoyl, the posh stuff on the Rustbeater website etc. More money, but worth it? An is it possible to rig up some sort of DIY spray system. I have visions of a pump up weed killer sprayer with a different nozzle. Dull question, but I'm sure it will be useful to a few people
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Sept 28, 2010 13:14:49 GMT
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I use Bilt Hamber dynax. Comes in big aerosol with a long application probe for getting it into cavities. It's good stuff.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Sept 28, 2010 13:23:41 GMT
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never seen any wax oil type stuff stop existing rust that well ...it just sits on top and the rust carrys on
id go a good clean up and primer /gloss on the outer bits and engine oil inside
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Sept 28, 2010 13:29:50 GMT
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but what for example, if you put oil into a car sill, and 5-10 years down the line the sill needs repairing, and the new owner, or you dosent know/forgot oil is in there, and they struck a welding torch to it, would they not be blown into smitherines? looney tunes stylee preferably lol ;D
just putting my pennys worth into this as i too hate rust.
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Sept 28, 2010 13:53:59 GMT
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Most cavity waxes are flammable too, probably moreso than what's left of the oil.
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Sept 28, 2010 14:13:06 GMT
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oil isnt really that flammable , will smoke more so rahter than explode like dynamite
underseals and waxes are just as much concern really...and harder to clean off
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Neil
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,485
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Sept 28, 2010 15:46:29 GMT
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I use Bilt Hamber dynax. Comes in big aerosol with a long application probe for getting it into cavities. It's good stuff. Another vote for Dynax S50 - i used it on my Acadiane (Dyane van) and found it easy to use & far superior to Waxoyl or anything similar i've used in the past. Chassis rust proofing is a good call - particular attention to be paid just behind the front axle - the rust eats from the inside out - people just patch over the rust & it's still eating away the insides - the chassis can bend or snap! It does happen. 2CV, Mehari, Dyane and Ami platform chassis. Click here for a chassis picture with the location of the holes needed for rustproofing. The rear chassis legs are divided into two sections halfway down the legs. Drill a hole both on the inside and on the outside, for rustproofing. Look at the spot welds on top of the chassis to make out de different sections inside the chassis. Drill holes and rustproof accordingly. Clean all edges with a high speed rotating wire brush. If some rust is present, prise open the edge, clean, treat with rust proofer, let dry, then tap back into shape. The front is usually trouble free but check for accident damage. Other Dyane areas that require special attention; Typical rust spots: Where floor meets bulkhead / firewall in front of front seats. The whole lower section of the bulkhead / firewall. Where original reinforcements have been welded on underneath the floor. Floor under the seat rails. Where the floor meets the sill. Any corners (interior), around and under body seal. Sills from inside out, especially at the front and rear ends, check underneath. Where inner rear wings connects to the body, just above the rear wing, all along the edge. Bottoms of doors. The third window surround rusts at the bottom, lift rubber from the inside. Spare wheel well rusts along the edges and where chassis sits underneath. Front windscreen surround around the windscreen. Rubber between body and chassis absorbs water and makes both body and chassis rust. Targa plastic seat covers tear easily. Cloth seat covers disappear when left unprotected from the sun. Window rails rust and wear. Boot lid rusts around the edges. The above was taken from here - www.cats-citroen.net/index.html2cvs/Dyanes are pretty specialist TBH and a lot of what you know about 'normal' vehicles is kinda lost on these things! There are plenty of enthusiastic people on the model specific clubs/forums; I'd recommend joining the 2CVGB club www.2cvgb.co.uk/ - £25 per annum & a great magazine every month. They are slowly getting some Dyane specific stuff remanufactured to help keep the remaining (400ish total on the road & that includes the ones on SORN ) For custom 2cv/Dyane stuff try the excellent 'Snail' forum - www.snail.s4.bizhat.com/index.php?mforum=snailfor general stuff join us at www.international2cvfriends.com
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Sept 28, 2010 17:33:07 GMT
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To stop box sections and chassis bits rusting, I'd use a good rust converter (Dinitrol make a good one sold by rustbuster in an aerosol) followed by a cavity wax. For the wax I'd use Bilt-Hamber Dynax, since it comes in a large, high-pressure aerosol, so you don't need a compressor.
Ideally, you want the metal warm, and to pre-heat the wax cans in a bucket of water. That way the wax will flow well into the nooks and crannies - but it's easier said than done at this time of year.
Make sure that any drain holes, slots and channels aren't blocked, so water doesn't sit in the box sections.
For the underside, I'd wire brush the rust off and apply Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic - it's expensive but perfrmed well in a practical classics test, and is based on oil rig paint. Follow that up with stone-chip in high impact areas (front valence, inner wheel arches) and finish off with Dinitrol (or other shutz type) underseal.
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Sept 28, 2010 18:03:15 GMT
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Ive changed to Dynax S50 too as opposed to waxoyl, as my cars have rusted away under it in the past. I'm in the process of restoring the underneath of one of my cars. Iive sprayed cavity wax on top of the original stonechip, and now its a nightmare to clean the underneath back to bare metal. when I've cut the rot out and replaced it, I'll be using bilt hamber eletrox primer then spraying on stonechip and leaving it like that. in the box sections I'll be using bilt hamber Dynax S50. As has been said welding in new sections where there has previously been cavity wax, its a nightmare as the heat causes the wax to melt, drip on to the weld and it burns very easily. I've started heating up the area with a hot air gun before welding welding to remove most of the wax. If it does start burning, I've found that giving it a blast of compressed air soon puts it out (although I still have a fire extinuisher or two handy)
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,740
Club RR Member Number: 83
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Rust proofing?Colonelk
@colonelk
Club Retro Rides Member 83
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Sept 28, 2010 18:13:53 GMT
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I'm sure ive been told not to use used engine oils because of acids and what not in it. New (cheap) engine oil should work though? and be less nasty to apply.
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Sept 28, 2010 18:21:07 GMT
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For the ones that don't come in aerosol form I did use a pump-up plant sprayer to good effect. I improved upon the design by sticking it into a trough and pouring hot watter from the kettle in around it every so often. Most of the in-a-can products flow very poorly when cold. A bit of heat and agitation worked wonders.
Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) mixed into a petroleum jelly goop and squirted in can work well at destroying rust. Mind, the Bilt Hamber stuff is basically that
--Phil
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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,829
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Sept 28, 2010 18:44:15 GMT
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I have peeled rotten sills off cars and found a solid build up off waxoil behind!!! I have used engine oil before as if you look under an old leaky car the middle of the chassis from engine backwards is usually good I would favour the thinner more penetrative brands of protection as they seep into the seams as opposed to waxoil which sits on top unless you can get he whole car very warm!
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,256
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Rust proofing?Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Sept 28, 2010 18:57:47 GMT
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Ben, I have the (decent) waxoyl pressure sprayer, not the little trigger gun one. If you get the square can of waxoyl you can top it up into it and it'll probably cover 3 dyanes Let me know if you want to borrow or have a use of it at Area 52
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Sept 28, 2010 19:09:00 GMT
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When I used Waxoyl, I actually used to spoon it into an old kettle and heat it up until it was completely liquid, then pour it into a spray applicator a bit like a shutz gun. It still need to be applied on a hot day though as it cools instantly when it hits the metal.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Rust proofing?retrowagen1234
@GUEST
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Sept 28, 2010 19:42:05 GMT
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I use Bilt Hamber dynax. Comes in big aerosol with a long application probe for getting it into cavities. It's good stuff. Just been reading up on all this.... think I'm gonna have to get some. I allready use that rust killer then waxoil. I'm gonna try rustkiller then this bilthamber stuff i think where do you usually buy it? don't wanna order it and it not arrive, wanna try get it from a reliable source.
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Sept 28, 2010 19:45:48 GMT
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Sept 28, 2010 19:46:31 GMT
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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Sept 28, 2010 20:00:28 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 28, 2010 20:04:01 GMT by RetroMat
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Sept 28, 2010 20:34:03 GMT
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i've sprayer my old engie oil under my capri last week, going to take it up to a dusty car part on friday if the rain keeps off to make it look more normal, it should work fine.
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1994 BMW 525i touring 2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken 1977 Ford Escort 1982 Ford Capri getting restored 1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
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Sept 28, 2010 20:48:31 GMT
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yep thats the key with oil , you need it to pick up some dust so forms a layer of grime
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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