Done a bit on the old bus again this week, bits and bobs in the evenings mostly.
Firstly the scuttle pannel needed attention. No real riust or obvious problems but this model of Vauxhall suffers with rust in the "nostrils" which becomes unsightly. So I've given t a good anti-rusting and finsihed off with anti-rust primer (No1) and black smoothrite. Several coats of each, paying particular attention to the seams and folds where rust starts on these.
Finished off the bonnet with etch primer on the big bare bits, Zinc primer on the bits where I've been wire brushing rust out and rust treated it and red oxide on a few other random bits.
Urban cammo LOL
Finished off the rest of the body by dosing the baremetal with etch primer
And as I'm starting to mask up hit a few places on the inside where I've not really started yet, but don't want to be working after I've sprayed the outside as I'll get overspray on the new paint...
Masking up is a big old job and its one that takes ages and is fiddly.
I started on the inside of this door by going round the inner window seals.
Its easiest to mask up the edges then apply the paper with another run of masking tape. Don't make life hard trying to accurately mask an edge with tape you are trying to hold paper with....
Life is harder and easier if you leave the glass in. Harder as its more masking, easier as you don't have to try getting the seals and regualtors back in place after! You may prefer to remove the glass and such on your project.
Here's the outside glass. See the edges are masked first just with tape and the paper sits in the middle. then mask the gap with tape.
Dunno why but it took me ages to work out this was the easiest way to mask up!
Then just have the drip rail to mask up.
You'll also notice how I've masked the stainless finishing trim down into the channel where the rubber door seal will sit when reassembled.
Masked up! (well, one side and the windscreen is). I've left the windscreen in because on this car it makes no difference as its bonded into a recess. On a car with a screen held in by a rubber you would be better to remove the glass. The problem is then how best to mask the hole to keep paint off the dash etc.
On the rear screen which I have removed I will probably just lay the glass back in place and mask on top of it loose.
Also do as I say not as I do. Newspaper is junk stuff to mask with. Generally I use proper masking paper but I was lazy, on a roll and not stopping and a buch of other reasons. Well the glass already has some overspray and other problems so newpaper will do. Newpaper has twoprobelms - 1 its dirty and can leave smudges 2, its porous so some paint will often get through it.
I use three sizes of tape to do this job 2", 1" and 1/2" and always use automotive tape with is lower tack and solvent compatible. The stuff from B&Q or where ever can be a nightmare!
Another thing is when you are spraying with proper kit you need to be more carefull than when masking for painting with rattle cans. Always make sure every edge of ever piece of paper is fully taped down. Paint at upto 70 PSI will get behind and loose or flappy paper no problems. You'll see paper flapping about as you pass by. The overspray area is also surprisingly large so make sure its all good. HVLP helps keep this problem at bay but is no excuse for sloppy masking. Even though masking is a right royal pain of a chore.
More later.
Firstly the scuttle pannel needed attention. No real riust or obvious problems but this model of Vauxhall suffers with rust in the "nostrils" which becomes unsightly. So I've given t a good anti-rusting and finsihed off with anti-rust primer (No1) and black smoothrite. Several coats of each, paying particular attention to the seams and folds where rust starts on these.
Finished off the bonnet with etch primer on the big bare bits, Zinc primer on the bits where I've been wire brushing rust out and rust treated it and red oxide on a few other random bits.
Urban cammo LOL
Finished off the rest of the body by dosing the baremetal with etch primer
And as I'm starting to mask up hit a few places on the inside where I've not really started yet, but don't want to be working after I've sprayed the outside as I'll get overspray on the new paint...
Masking up is a big old job and its one that takes ages and is fiddly.
I started on the inside of this door by going round the inner window seals.
Its easiest to mask up the edges then apply the paper with another run of masking tape. Don't make life hard trying to accurately mask an edge with tape you are trying to hold paper with....
Life is harder and easier if you leave the glass in. Harder as its more masking, easier as you don't have to try getting the seals and regualtors back in place after! You may prefer to remove the glass and such on your project.
Here's the outside glass. See the edges are masked first just with tape and the paper sits in the middle. then mask the gap with tape.
Dunno why but it took me ages to work out this was the easiest way to mask up!
Then just have the drip rail to mask up.
You'll also notice how I've masked the stainless finishing trim down into the channel where the rubber door seal will sit when reassembled.
Masked up! (well, one side and the windscreen is). I've left the windscreen in because on this car it makes no difference as its bonded into a recess. On a car with a screen held in by a rubber you would be better to remove the glass. The problem is then how best to mask the hole to keep paint off the dash etc.
On the rear screen which I have removed I will probably just lay the glass back in place and mask on top of it loose.
Also do as I say not as I do. Newspaper is junk stuff to mask with. Generally I use proper masking paper but I was lazy, on a roll and not stopping and a buch of other reasons. Well the glass already has some overspray and other problems so newpaper will do. Newpaper has twoprobelms - 1 its dirty and can leave smudges 2, its porous so some paint will often get through it.
I use three sizes of tape to do this job 2", 1" and 1/2" and always use automotive tape with is lower tack and solvent compatible. The stuff from B&Q or where ever can be a nightmare!
Another thing is when you are spraying with proper kit you need to be more carefull than when masking for painting with rattle cans. Always make sure every edge of ever piece of paper is fully taped down. Paint at upto 70 PSI will get behind and loose or flappy paper no problems. You'll see paper flapping about as you pass by. The overspray area is also surprisingly large so make sure its all good. HVLP helps keep this problem at bay but is no excuse for sloppy masking. Even though masking is a right royal pain of a chore.
More later.
) onto the sticky from here and the jobs a goodun. This is why its good to read a broadsheet...
