fad
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Posts: 1,781
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Dec 12, 2017 11:53:21 GMT
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Trouble is the cap heads are bolts and have a max thread of 35mm. Tried Spalding before. I think I'm going to have to rethink and maybe redo the spring plates in an M12 coarse.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I once stripped down a VW Beetle for a respray and found NO RUST whatsoever. That was properly weird.
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fad
Posted a lot
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I was thinking, if nothing else then maybe the SSP ones. We’ve got some BRM 4 spokes They are quite ropey, they’ve been blasted and gone back to the nickel So I thought maybe we could paint the flats dark and the edges silver to make them look lighter, and they are 4.5j so 4” narrower than the rears.... not sure if it would work, we need to play with it and need to have panels on to see how it looks (so nearly there) but narrowest slots I’ve seen are 5.5 and the tyres wouldn’t swap over if we don’t like it, hence why we haven’t done anything Our vision is something like this (this is just the first one I found) with spokey narrow wheels up front and more solid wheels at the back (but I was lured in by slot mags... because) We are going to run mudguards on it too (unfortunately, but I don’t really want the hassle of being pulled over etc) so need to place them on too. We are thinking if we paint them matt or satin black and fit them close to the tyres they shouldn’t be too noticeable (?) Small fibreglass ones mounted on brackets that bolt to your spring plates (rear) and spindles (front) lotus 7 style painted black and very close to the tyre will be near invisible. Just don't ever try offroading like that!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 17:42:56 GMT
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I did come very very close to putting an rx7 twin rotor into a moggy minor but bottled it.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 15:04:47 GMT
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ahh, have you checked that an 80mm fastener will still be touching the arm? I have a feeling it will miss it. would be far simpler to weld the threaded post further around, unless you still need full adjustment range back to standard height. That's not mine, that's an example of one. Mine is a custom made job, about 40mm of the thread is taken by the threaded block. Mine pushes against a broader block but stays within a sensible angle so as not to snap the bolt (the load comes closer to the line of the bolt the more thread is wound through).
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 14:55:49 GMT
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Longest I found is 50mm cap heads in various grades. It may have to do.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 14:36:44 GMT
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This, basically.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 14:08:23 GMT
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Run a tap down a case hardened bolt? What kind of taps do you have? LOL
That said it's an 8.8, might get away with that, but the tapped area will be exactly where the load will be much of the time, not good. Will put a pin in that one for future use...
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 13:35:07 GMT
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ahh you need a screw not a bolt. what is it for? Yes it's a set screw I need, but I put "bolt" because most folk don't know the difference unless you explicitly point out a fully threaded shank vs part threaded. In any case, it is for an adjustable suspension setup on my Volksrod. Hague got back in touch and said they can tag my requirement of two bolts onto the back of an order going through for £100... / Must be very expensive to make!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 11, 2017 13:20:51 GMT
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Hello all!
I am looking for an unusual bolt size...
M12x1.25, 60mm-80mm long, case hardened, 10.9 for preference (though 8.8 at a push if needs be and there really is no other option). Cup point grub screw for preference, cap head for second, hex head if there's nothing else, must be threaded all the way down...
I cannot for the LIFE of me find something that fits!!!
I have tried:
Orbital Fasteners Hague Fasteners (they can do them for me for £145 the pair) Ebay TR Fastenings
...and a whole bunch of other places online.
Anyone got any thoughts?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 10, 2017 18:54:57 GMT
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To be fair 1.9 shouldda given it away... 1.9 petrol? Not so common!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 10, 2017 18:15:02 GMT
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:-( too easy to ring these :-( its generally accepted in landrover circles too.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Dec 10, 2017 17:05:08 GMT
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Does it have the cable operated waxstat cold start? they play up and wind the RPM up. Ignore the comment about the idle mixture screw, It's a diesel.. Sorry. Only really scan read. My bad!! Indeed, ignore me.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Yeah suited up I imagine they are fine tbf
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Rear wheels look ace, are you getting fronts to match? I have to say I prefer it without the bodywork on, can you build these without it? You can but they are horrible to drive!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Thanks and I love a bit of factory filler! Lol! Cheers, I believe that is the key to success in business! On a serious note some of the factory welds were SHOCKING!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Just make sure you do the glow plugs first. Easiest thing to check and sort.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Just so you know,late Bugs left the factory full of bad repairs and bodge, it was compulsory extras lol!
Tidy looking workshop! Love it!!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Looking for a local service and a good price to have a pair of steels banded, i was told that £40 a piece is the average going rate, tried to google but not a lot of joy and i don't do that Facebook thing. Any recommendations? Banded steels Essex did mine. Widened rears, narrowed fronts, holes filled and smoothed. Did an amazing job.
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Last Edit: Dec 7, 2017 19:19:07 GMT by fad
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Don't over grease them either... That can be just as bad. As said there should be the tiniest bit of play (enough to make the mot man raise an eyebrow). I suspect what has happened isn't lack of grease or over tightening, but simply poor luck. A bit of crud in there or something perhaps.
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