fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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(Why don't YOU buy it and then tell US all about it..? That makes more sense surely!) Because thats what this forum is for - working for us BOTH WAYS ! You misunderstood the tone of my post, chap. I was jokingly giving you justification to go out and buy one... "Sorry wife, I know I said I wouldn't, but it's for research, you understand..." that kind of thing. That's the trouble with black and white text on a forum, intonation, inflection and facial expression don't carry.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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That type of hinge doesn't usually have a roll pin in my experience. It should have something more like this- goo.gl/images/PWZijLThere's a number of reasons for that, one it stops as much water/dirt getting in from the top, two it's knurled to stop it rotating, and three it's actually round so it doesn't cut its way into the hinge like a roll pin will. Finding one the right diameter and length might be a bit of an issue though. Model A ford is the most obvious and they corn in a range of diameters. If not there's no reason you couldn't make some though., easy to machine a long shanked bolt then strike some knurling into it with a chisel. A solid pin with a mushroomed head! Don't wanna say "Told ya so..." but... :lol:
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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If it's wrong, then tell 'em Dave made you do it.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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(Why don't YOU buy it and then tell US all about it..? That makes more sense surely!)
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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What were they from the factory? Around to 200bhp mark?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I guess you are going for interference fit on the outers, and close fit on the inners..? I dunno my experience of this type of hinge is limited... I would be tempted to go with a solid pin that is an interference fit on the outers possibly with a slightly mushroomed head and then stick it in a drill chuck and spin it up and take a little material off the middle with some wet n dry, and ream the holes of the centre part of the hinge. You seem to know what you gotta do to make it work though You're doing what I would do. I wouldn't worry about the middle hole too much... And if there's any play that bothers you, you could just mount the hinges very very slightly cock eyed to take up the play... No one would know except me and you LOL
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Ahhh slotted pin through the lot. A solid pin would suffice too. But yes, one set of holes needs to be larger than the other, doesn't matter which way around you do it usually.
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Last Edit: Apr 3, 2017 20:02:08 GMT by fad
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Can you post a pic up of what you are looking at buddy? Reading that made my brain bleed and I'm thick as mince. Pictures work better.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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No I want to see your crusty hole...
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I'd happily do it for you. But, MILES away!
The reason you see that the skills on the readers rides threads is better than many garages, is because of love and time and money. Many people when faced with an estimate for welding properly will go "HOW BLOODY MUCH???" and then go to somewhere that will simply weld a patch over it so the MOT man can't see the rot, and away you go for a while, all done for a very cheap reasonable price. then the folk who can do it properly are assumed to be chancers and rip off merchants... So you end up with the people who can do it well not getting the work etc etc.
In that lot you have put pics I can absolutely say with certainty that once anyone starts digging, they will find more. To do it properly will take time, but of course that costs. It's just how things are, people don't want to pay for the good jobs. the bodgers clean up, make a fair wedge and by the time the rot comes back the vehicle has usually changed hands.
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Last Edit: Apr 3, 2017 16:38:17 GMT by fad
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Got a photo of the hole?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Helicoils or drill n tap. sounds like they have been cross threaded in the past.
Oohhhh welding virgin? enjoy your baptism of fire! LOL
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Don't get ripped off buddy. LOTS of people say they can weld, very few of them actually can.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Normally yes. However, the premise of this project is to keep things as old skool as possible. So, that's why it's on carbs not FI, that's why its lowered with cutting and welding rather than airbags. It's why I am using a locked out 009 rather than the far, far superior options out there.
Yes ok electronic ignition is not "old skool" but I am allowing little tweaks here and there to make use of the car easier (it's also a safety thing, the last thing I want is another ignition issue that results in a manifold detonation!). But in this instance, I have it running on points and condenser and having proved that it works, for more trouble free motoring and a better burn I'm allowing this small upgrade.
I've learned shedloads from this project, and I am really enjoying doing things the "hard way", and learning how things have changed over the years. For example the turbo... I used a garret T3, which are an old old design and not the best turbo out there, because that's what used to be used for junkyard turbocharging. BUT, I also learned that changes in manufacturing techniques has meant that a T3, while it used to work for this application, doesn't any longer. The reason? The oil seal. They are no longer made to work in negative pressure as with a draw through system with the throttle shut. The dynamic seal was unseating and allowing oil to pass through into the compressor which was causing all sorts of issues when the throttle was closed. Turns out that carbon shaft seals were binned long long ago, but no amount of reading up old material brought this to light since back "then" no one had even heard of a dynamic seal. I enjoy keeping old knowledge alive, and that's why a nicer dizzy is off the menu (for now!).
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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^Nice info there!!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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You've not restricted flow when you put the boss in for the oil temp sensor? Behind the sump plate is a strainer and the oil pickup tube with a baffle on it What oil did you refill with after the oil change? John Good point. Tp sensor... either buy the correct sump plug or T off at your pressure sender. Both are very cheap options... though hood ingenuity.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Sounds like poor pressure to me. Change the sender just in case first.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I know someone.
But he's a prick. So I'm not gonna push any business his way.
(I know that doesnt help you... sorry buddy... but if you het stuck pm me)
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Last Edit: Apr 2, 2017 21:23:58 GMT by fad
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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I get that sometimes (engineer by trade).
Other times I'm so motivated I hraft too hard and do myself an injury (like now... laid up with a knackered back).
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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don't have FB.
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