Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 29, 2012 15:21:36 GMT
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As per the title, radiator taken from a 1997-ish Pug 106 1.1 but should fit most petrol 106s/Saxos. Comes complete with expansion tank, cap and coolant sensor. There is some minor damage to the fins but it should work fine. I'm after £15 collected from Reading or I can package for a courier but the fins on this thing are very fragile! Best way to reach me is on 07963 three two one 687. Cheers, Will
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2012 15:23:22 GMT by Tepper
1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 29, 2012 13:08:01 GMT
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I'll have a gasket set for the 190e if you've got one, don't suppose you've got the bolts as well? PM me the details.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 27, 2012 14:04:43 GMT
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SOLD
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 27, 2012 13:29:55 GMT
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Have you got a head gasket set for a '89 Merc 190e 2.0?
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 26, 2012 23:15:35 GMT
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I've just read this from start to finish, I know it's all been said already but this build is truly inspirational.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 25, 2012 13:26:43 GMT
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So far as I know, all the 'ColdstartTickover RaiserCable' does is raise the idle speed when the coolant is cold, I don't think it effects the timing. If the cable is tight after a run it probably indicates that the wax thermostat (thing sticking out of the thermostat housing with the cable coming out of it) isn't working and the fact that the cable is tight, rather than slack, means that your car is stuck with a cold idle speed, maybe 1,200 rpm? Does your car have a rev counter? Either way, if it's stuck on the cold setting, it shouldn't have any negative effect on the car apart from perhaps slightly increased fuel consumption. On my 306 with the same engine the wax 'stat failed and I just run with the cable slack, doesn't cause me any problems.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 22, 2012 19:04:03 GMT
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To check if there's air in the lines you need a clear section of pipe between the fuel filter and the pump. Not sure if there's one fitted from factory but on my 205 deteriorated fuel hoses caused all kinds of problems including one very similar to what you're talking about. Yes it should affect the car at all temperatures but if it were me it would be one of the first things I'd check.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 22, 2012 15:44:09 GMT
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My old 205 did something similar and it turned out to be an air leak into the fuel system, is there any air in the fuel going to the pump?
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 19, 2012 18:04:15 GMT
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Resetting the flap is pretty simple but it requires a bit of disassembly. I did this write-up a while ago, ignore the bit about removing the metal plate holding the injectors in. Oh and you can remove the fuel distributor and air meter as one assembly. Have you checked that the 'throttle' flap (it's actually a basic mechanical MAF, the throttle is underneath) actually needs resetting? Here's the write-up, there's another page on the same website that tells you how to reset the plate once you've got the whole lot off the car. mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6693576/1/#new
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 17, 2012 19:08:10 GMT
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I really like that, top work.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 13, 2012 22:19:23 GMT
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Change the fluid, it's the easiest thing to try and it ought to make a difference if it hasn't been done recently. How I did it was use a syringe to get the old fluid out of the reservoir, then take off a hose on the P/S pump and tie it below the level of the rest of the system. Keep the reservoir topped up with fresh fluid and it'll just drain out, catch it with a milk bottle or something until it runs clean. Top up the reservoir to level et voila!
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 12, 2012 19:06:08 GMT
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I don't think it does, there is definitely a box of some sort before the final silencer but I don't think it's a cat, plus the ignition control unit isn't marked 'KAT' or 'EZL'. I think it's 122HP but I'm not sure. I think I'm just going to have to check all the sensors against spec. one by one.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Nov 11, 2012 18:19:37 GMT
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Thanks for that DieselWeasel, I have read about the fault code system but my car (1989) doesn't have pin 3 on the diagnostic connector, which is the pin that outputs fault codes so far as I know. It also doesn't have an air intake temp. sensor, or a lambda sensor - I had a look under the car and also under the carpets to see if I could find the wiring. Is there any way to get fault codes from the car without pin 3? Or do you know what any of the other pins do? There are 9 pins in total.
I think the OVP is okay, because cold starts aren't a problem and the idle is usually fine, which I *think* indicates it's working? I'll check the camshaft soon as I'm planning on doing the rocker cover gasket, the thermostat is currently stuck open as well so I'll be changing that too. I haven't checked the fuel filter yet or the fuel lines, but we have checked for vacuum leaks.
My gut feeling is that it must be something related to the temperature of the engine, because when you start it up first thing in the morning it has much more power than usual. Also, the fuel consumption is pretty awful and there seems to be a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. Keep the suggestions coming...
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Thanks for the replies people, always helpful. The injection system is interesting in that it should/can run without any of the electrical bits. The metering head does have a plug on the side of it, which I believe is for the electro-hydraulic actuator. This changes the mixture according to a signal from the ECU. This forum post has been very helpful to me so far: mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w124/400937-ke-jetronic-diagnosis.htmlI think the problem might lie with the EHA (the Merc troubleshooting manual describes my exact symptoms and says to check the EHA), or possibly the lambda sensor, but for now I'm quite confused. I don't want to just start replacing things to try to sort out the problem! I'm going to poke at the car with a multimeter this evening to see if that sheds any light on the situation... Good idea about the transmission but I've just changed the fluid and it all seems fine to me.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Bump
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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I've recently bought an '89 Mercedes 190e, it's a 2.0 automatic. Which should be slow, but not 'can't keep up with traffic' slow.
The engine seems sweet enough and starts and idles very well when cold, it also seems to have the power it should do just after you start it from cold. However, very soon after it starts to warm up, it seems like it doesn't pull anywhere near as well as it should (it's much, much slower than my old 1.8 190). It can hesitate, especially as it revs past about 4,000 rpm. We have checked the induction system over for air leaks and reset the position of the airflow metering plate - everything seems fine to me. The car has had a service recently and most of the ignition system seems to be new. There is a fair bit of pressure in the breather system but it doesn't smoke, not sure if that has anything to do with it. So... any ideas?
The second question - can anyone recommend a good dent/scratch removal place in Reading/Berkshire? I backed into a post in the dark that I made a point of looking out for... Alternatively are there any good products or methods for polishing out scratches on painted plastic bumpers?
Many thanks.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Bump
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Oct 31, 2012 14:14:54 GMT
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Bump!
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Oct 28, 2012 19:18:51 GMT
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My old 205d used to pressurise the cooling system very quickly after the head gasket went, but we actually managed to fix it with k seal and it ran perfectly until I got rid of it, despite losing a bit of water every now and then. Just keep it topped up, check for leaks and if it's running well, leave it.
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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Oct 28, 2012 17:27:57 GMT
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Pictures sorted, not sure why I can't get them to come up on the ad but the links work fine. Sunday bump, more than happy to listen to offers before it goes on eBay...
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen! 1983 Mazda RX7 1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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