andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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On my Land Rover the clutch pedal hits the floor without really dis-engaging the clutch. The car will drive with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
The clutch has been bleed with a Goodridge Speedbleeder fitted and I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system, (these worked great with the brakes!), no leaks I can see and the pedal seems properly adjusted.
Am I right in thinking that this means a dying or dead master cylinder? The M/C has stood dry for many months after the engine swap, could this cause problems?
Or I guess something went wrong with the engine swap......too late to complain now!
Thanks
Andy
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 28, 2024 20:30:42 GMT
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Eventful week. In no particular order: Jeep fixed Laptop broken Rear brake adjuster fixed Big personal worry. Last post had the wheel bearing for the Jeep arriving, Ken the village mechanic took it to work on Tuesday and fixed it, but only after a very early phone call to me. Locking wheel nuts can hide in the most unexpected places, can't they? Who'd have thought it'd be with the jack and wheel brace? I'll probably NOT point this out in the pub on Saturday, he's bigger, younger than me and he also does MOT's, which is handy! What can I say about the laptop, it stopped on the day I got the Jeep back. Now typing this on a Levono desktop thing, it's nice, but the money would've been better spent on the Landy. The rear O/S wheel was locked solid and when I tried to adjust it, the adjuster just spun. You all know that feeling when a nut or bolt suddenly stops threading....this was the same So off with the wheel and fix it, easier said then done. The brake drum wouldn't come loose, hammer, big hammer, big screwdrivers and finally truck tyre sized tyre irons. Then removing the brake cylinder and rotating the adjuster. No luck. And this indirectly leads into my big personal worry, I'd left the drum retaining screw in! Once I stopped chuckling and removed it, the drum almost fell off and I discovered the reason for the non-adjust. The adjuster has a snail shaped cam which moves the shoe in or out. This bolted on to a splined shaft, that can be turned at the rear of the drum and the cheese metal it was made from had lost it's spline, so the adjuster turned, but not the cam. Luckily, I had spares. My race driver style excuses for the non removal of a tiny screw are "I couldn't see it without rotating the locked wheel" and " I always remove these stupid screws and for some reason I didn't this time". In truth, it's a worry. My mum, who's 86 has full Dementia and she started "slipping" at about my present age. Little things, like occasionally forgetting my name and if she ever did the brakes on a Land Rover, I'm sure she'd be leaving the drum screw in! Now she doesn't recognize any of her children and can only be described as "violent", caused by the fear of not understanding what's happened to her. Anyway, locked wheel now rotates and I'm so glad I fitted the speedbleeders, if you're wondering what to get me for my birthday, it's speedbleeders! Now a clean, easy and quick job. Open the bleeder 1/4 turn, 5 pumps of the pedal, retighten the bleeder and it's done. And I mean rock hard pedal done! With the Jeep fixed, I got some petrol, 10 liters and slopped it in to check the gauge works. And yes, it doesn't. More investigation needed because I've got a mis-match of bits. My understanding is that a Land Rover has a sender that reads the "wrong" way. Most gauges go from low to high ohms, low ohms being low fuel etc. The Land Rover is counterintuitive, high ohms are low fuel in the tank! Added to this is the fact that I've got to drop the tank to check wiring, sender and it's ohms readings, this is something that's going to wait a while. I also did this. Not on purpose, it does mean that the Ebay fuel gauge needs to work! After spending 5 hours trying to thread wires through the expandable sleeving, with the breakout wires exiting in the right place and still not getting an acceptable finish, I gave up and purchased split tubing instead. This looks OK and took about 20 mins to fit!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 23, 2024 23:04:01 GMT
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Define cheap please?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Re your wheel bearing question, the same bearing will be fitted to various vehicles you should search by Timken / SKF part number to avoid 'dealer / scene tax' ... Did try that, but even SKF direct was almost Ā£100 dearer. Like a lot of moderns, it's not just a bearing, it's a bearing, hub, ABS connector and fitting kit. And Rockauto can deliver it quicker plus their customer service is second to none. Ordered a pair of ABS sensors, wrong parts were sent, 2 days after the complaint email was sent, the correct parts were in my hand! Without a quibble or question too.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Just cast my vote for Spanish Stray Dogs UK Thanks.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 21, 2024 11:44:54 GMT
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In the hour I've taken to type the post above, Rockauto have received my order and have now shipped it to arrive on Friday!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 21, 2024 11:37:28 GMT
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Land Rover is now off the axle stands and waiting for a test drive, but when I try to start it, no joy. Might be a simple reason though, a lack of fuel! The needle of the new Chinese gauge is firmly set against empty. This might be a wiring issue with the dreaded 2 core house style wire from the sender, no idea which wire goes to where on the sender (tank needs dropping to see) and a choice of 2 different ways of wiring, depending on which sender is used make it an unknown. So I'm not even sure if it's a lack of fuel. The easiest way to check this is to put some fuel in surely, (I hear you say!). And you're right of course. And of course, now is the time for the Jeeps wheel bearing to whine so loudly, that even the radio can't drown out the noise any more. So no way to pop to the garage 20 miles away for a drop of petrol. I'm loathe to risk driving the Jeep till it's fixed, which should be soon. Once I've got it started, I'll find out if the one rear wheel brake will free off. The other 3 wheels are adjusted so the wheels turn, but still have high spots that "grab" When I tried to adjust the N/S rear, it stayed locked, no matter how much the adjuster "clicked". And when I tried to back off the adjuster to remove the drum, it stopped adjusting, the bolt now just turns uselessly. Which means I can't remove the drum to investigate, not quite sure what I'll do about this, any ideas? Tried to fit the sleeving on the wiring and it's very difficult, only managed to sleeve the 4 wires for the N/S front wing lights and that took 3 hours! Might rethink this, it does look good though (I think). Not a great picture, but it gives an idea! And while I was typing this, the mechanic phoned about the Jeep, front wheel bearing & hub is Ā£350 + VAT! How can Rockauto get the same SKF part to my door in 3 days from the USA for Ā£197 including taxes? Anyways, onward and upwards as always! And I'm going to ask a favour now. Last year we adopted 2 dogs from Spain via a charity called Spanish Stray Dogs UK. The UK charities wouldn't allow us a dog at the time because we lived in a flat. SSD where willing to look past this and allowed us to adopt Bonny and then later Ambar . I've since got involved with the charity, helping with fostering dogs, providing advice and fund raising. Don't worry I'm not going to ask for money! But I will ask for 5 minutes of your time please, to vote for Spanish Stray Dogs UK in the Movement for Good draw HERE . It won't cost anything, you won't get spammed and the charity could use the Ā£5000. Thanks for reading. And if you're thinking of adopting, can recommend Spanish Stray Dogs UK Spanish Stray Dogs UK
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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New plan. Ignore everything I've just said. Find a Austin 7. Build a Mistral. Own a stunning motor car.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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As ever, if you want a 50/60's style racer, weld up the Herald, sell it and buy one already built or almost built. It'll be cheaper, quicker and have far less work to get it on the road, especially if it's already SVA'd.
And the performance of a Sylva/Fisher Fury/Phoenix will leave most cars for dead on the road or track.
Please don't take offence, but if doing some welding (sounds like just a little) is too much, then building a kit car is certainly a lot more, in time, in money and effort.
However, if you just fancy a change.......I prefer the top and bottom ones, though neither seem quite "right".
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Feb 11, 2024 22:31:40 GMT
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A job list for the new house was issued and eventually completed. This, along with a long wait for parts interrupted work on the Landy, so not much done since my last post. But a start has been made on labelling wires and connectors, prior to removal of the loom for sleeving. I havenāt drawn a plan of the looms layout, but I do have a system for labelling. Each connector has a code number, that number is recorded along with the wire colours and the colour wire itās joined to. Iām using Lucas wiring colours, but because I havenāt got all the colours, some wires have a ānear toā colour. This is why both sides of the connectors are recorded. Tried to adjust the brakes, manual says to āadjust till drag, then back off one clickā. Canāt hear or feel clicks and itās a choice of locked when turning by hand or dragging in spots. Think the shoes need some bedding in! Anyway, picked a spot between locked and dragging just a bit. Tried to bleed the clutch using an easy bleeder type thing, which didnāt work and also found a leak from the adaptor in the master cylinder, could've fitted just a new copper washer, but it was rusty so replaced. And then I treated myself. Purchased Goodridge speed bleeders for both the brakes and the clutch. Hoping this helps to get a nice, bubble free pedal on brakes and clutch, something Iāve not been able to achieve so far! Started with the clutch bleed nipple, what a pain! In the end I had to drop the exhaust system and even then it was a real cold fingered struggle. In the chassis, almost under the nearside exhaust manifold is a hole, itās meant to be there, why I donāt know. Think Iāve lost at least 4 exhaust manifold nuts into it now. Doubt Iāll hear them rattling about above all the other rattles, whines and squeaks of a leaf spring Land Rover! Wonāt know if Iāve got a working clutch till itās off the axle stands and after the brakes have had the same treatment, but at least the brakes are a 5 min job once the wheels are off.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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The bigger pipe seemed to be something they all did in the 60's, I wonder if it was a throwback to older fluids, certainly won't be an issue with DOT4. It's weird that it's effectively a big pipe with a small nozzle at it's entry point, either have one size or the other!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Been looking at this further and (as far as I can tell) because I've got a 3/8 unf thread in the master cylinder and a 7/16 unf thread in the slave, an adaptor has to go on one end!
So I think I'll stick with the Land Rover design and have the adaptor at the master cylinder end, I can easily see if it leaks and the pedal pressure stays the same. This means it's -4 hose system.
I'm sure there's a reason Land Rover did it this way, even if it was just "that's what was lying around the factory" when they built the things!
Unless you know a way around it?!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Thanks.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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The Landy has a -4 hydraulic clutch line, except at the master cylinder which has an adaptor on it's outlet, which takes it from -3 (3/8unf) to -4 (4 being larger). With the hose, it's got 5 joints or 2.5 times the chance to leak! I'd like to replace it with a braided hose, a 3/8 unf fitting at each end, this means -3 hose throughout it's whole length, instead of a tiny section of -3 then -4 for most of the hose/pipe. What difference will all -3 hose make? Harder or softer on the pedal, more travel or less? Pic shows present layout.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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"then probably buy something awful for too much moneyš" That'll be the proper RR way!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Speedbleeders seem like a good idea too.
The cost, not so good!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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" or put the bleed on some sort of extension."
Turns out Land Rover did exactly this on new vehicles. There's a extension pipe and bracket that mine is missing, seems new slave cylinders aren't supplied with the extension pipe and banjo pipe fitting, the old ones tend to be very rusty and people do exactly what I'd do, fit it without the extension because they need the car and they can't wait for the missing parts!
Thinking (if I can get the pipe and nipple off without removing the slave!) replacing both missing extension pipe and the master to slave pipe with braided hose.
I could also solve the adaptor that leaks on the M/C. And remove about 4 joints and the possible leaks.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Quite like the asymmetry of the single. Me too and it'll irritate a lot people too! I'm now thinking one huge Super Oscar right in the middle.....
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Cables. Cables are good, good for operating things, things like clutches. Yes, you guessed right. I lay under the Landy and had a nightmare trying to bleed(ing) the clutch! The Easy Bleeder blew brake fluid out of the reservoir cap and from the little joint piece between reservoir and pipe, both streams of fluid meeting under the reservoir, where I couldnāt get to, to mop it up! The bleed nipple under the car is almost impossible to get to, certainly canāt a pipe onto it and I struggle to turn it. I think if Iād built this car, Iād either re-routed the pipe to the slave cylinder, (it blocks access to the bleed nipple) or put the bleed on some sort of extension. Then I tried to adjust the front brakes, these have 2 cylinders in each drum and have a snail cam adjuster. The process (as I understand it) is to adjust each brake shoe till it starts rubbing, then back off a āclickā I couldnāt feel any āclicksā and the shoes or drums have some many high spots, the brakes either drag a little or are locked. Like the clutch, frustrating and hard work with an uncertain finish. I have no idea if the clutch is now ābledā and will work or if the brakes will not catch fire when I drive the thing, assuming that I can bleed the brakes! At least the brake cylinder with the bleed nipple has been put at the top of the drum, bleeding the cylinders via the bottom cylinder would be a bleed(ing) nightmare. After spending time wishing cable brakes would come back into fashion, I did this. And I ask, which do you prefer? (Ignore the rope around the bumper, itās for tying the bonnet fully open, not for snatch recoveries!) Tomorrow, I'm fitting blinds and bath panels (in the house!), but I will explain why I think cable brakes are a good idea soon.
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