andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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While I'm here.
The plan for the clutch, which has it's bleed screw in a very awkward place, is to wedge the pedal down and then use a Easy Bleeder.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Yeah, previous owner riveted it in place....!
With lots of rivets and mastic/glue.
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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A couple of clicks on the Norbar Torque wrench for about half of the nuts. Harder than I thought with carb and other ancillaries on the engine.
Clutch next.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Jan 31, 2024 23:50:37 GMT
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Bite the bullet and let the temp climb a few deg over 92 and prove your temp switch works 🤞 better doing it while stationary rather than finding out it doesn't work while driving. Sounds like you crossed the switch wires, no matter if it's working now 👍 Can't see what harm it would do to check the torque on the head studs I know you're right, I'll have to put my big boy pants on though . Not going to say anything about the witchcraft switch.....and I think I'll do a re-torque, the internet seems to think it don't do any harm and is something that was popular in the 20th century, which is where this Buick engine came from!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 31, 2024 19:27:49 GMT
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Today I started to fill the radiator with coolant and after a few seconds I remembered to close the radiator drain valve!
Once I’d got back up, I carried on filling the radiator, that’s the 3rd time I’ve done this recently.
It’s a worry, this memory loss and sometimes an allied lack of concentration too. Old age, something I won’t outgrow!
Anyway, wiring is mostly done. Fuel tank and loom sleeving are the only things unfinished.
Sleeving, because I’m dreading it and also because I don’t know how long it’ll take!
I’ve got a friend visiting in a couple of weeks and I’d like the car driving by then. I need to bleed the clutch, bleed and adjust the brakes and hope there’s nothing else wrong with them.
If I take all the wiring out to sleeve it, something I’ve never done before and then don’t get it done in time, he’ll be very disappointed. This way he stands a chance of driving it, assuming I get the brakes etc. working!
The fuel tank gauge isn’t wired , I can’t get to the sender or the fuel pipe without dropping the tank.
So the reposition of the pump and new hose fitting won’t happen just yet. The tank sender still has a good length of 2 core wire attached. Unfortunately, the 2 core wire is brown and yellow/green, so I have no idea what does what!
I guess I’ll have to wire it and then find out by swapping wires and swapping wires has also got both the rad fan switch and it’s LED working properly.
Don’t ask how, it worked fine at first, but had the led on all the time (as predicted). Then when I installed a diode, the whole switch stopped working, I removed the diode, but the switch still didn’t work.
Swapped the switch wires, so now both switch and LED are functioning correctly,. I’ve gone from working switch/permanent LED to nothing working, then everything working correctly…..it’s a mystery!
Anyway, after I’d tightened the drain plug, I filled it with coolant and started it.
FORGOT HOW LOUD IT IS!
Adjusted the timing, still not perfect, but good enough to get it to idle. I’d taken the distributor out to fit the temp gauge.
Coolant temperature climbed steadily, watched the gauge give a “blip” when the thermostat opened.
I’m afraid I chickened out when the gauge hit 92C, that’s when the fan switch is supposed to switch the fans on, I didn’t wait but hit the manual over-ride switch….the fans worked however, pulling the temp below 90c within a few seconds.
Not sure if I have a leak in the radiator or if it’s just moisture on the engine, but there was a lot of steam. I have been working under the bonnet whilst it’s been raining, so I’m hoping for the 2nd.
No obvious bubbles in the coolant and the coolant hadn’t dropped a lot once it’d cooled down.
I’m also wondering whether to do a “re-torque “ on the head. I’ve converted to studs instead of stretch bolts for the heads and I know a lot of studded engines have this done after a few miles
What’s your opinion?
Not going to tempt fate by saying anything about the kettle. Still, it’s better than it was I hope.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 29, 2024 10:04:11 GMT
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Re-wire is almost complete now, just waiting on fuel hose and a couple of dry days to reposition the fuel pump and I'll be back onto the kettle problem, oh joy! Freely admit I know nothing about electronics, but I manned up and purchased a diode and installed it as per kevins instructions and ....nothing! The switch simply stopped working. So, either I've brought the wrong kind of diode, installed it wrongly and bu**ered it or I've managed to wire the switch incorrectly and now the diode won't help. Or maybe all three! Is what I broughtHad a spare in-line fuse holder in the re-use Quality Street tin, which made it easy to install and why I brought it. As I said before, not that worried about the switch warning light and now I've no choice! Been looking at the dash, a lot lately and not just because I'm doing the wiring behind it. My Lightweight version of the Series 3 has a flat bulkhead with what is basically a sheet metal box bolted to it to serve as the dash, this then has a Series 2A dash panel bolted it to hold the gauges and some of the switches. I'm unsure how original and factory this is, I'm pretty sure the bulkhead is a civilian replacement version and I'm unable to find any pictures of a dash that looks like mine! Anyway, with it's non working speedo, inaccurate fuel gauge (that might actually be the thirst making the gauge always read empty!), redundant coolant gauge and a sprinkling of extra odd size holes for various extra switches, it's a mess and not a nice thing to glance at whilst trying to keep the Landy in a straight direction. I do have a low cost plan, but it'll wait till I've re-routed the fuel line and pump, wired pump, re-torqued the heads, checked timing and got the thing running. If it's still a kettle, I'm unsure of what to next, perhaps a TDI conversion is in it's future.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 25, 2024 20:33:02 GMT
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Yes! Wag Bennets.
Haven't been down the A13 for years, I know the new road bypasses where Wag used to be.
I remember it as a proper spares shop with the big parts books and everything covered in the dust of aeons, but the "blokes behind the counter" knew every item and where it was.
Still have a plastic compartment box of grommets I brought from them, not many grommets left now after 45ish years, but some have found their way into the Landy, keeping up the tradition of me fitting at least one these grommets to every car I've ever modified!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 25, 2024 20:06:51 GMT
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Girlfiend is fine now, thanks. I think it's an old rugby injury playing up... I've replaced wiring looms like for like before and done the usual extra circuits. Added a BMW M52 ECU into a Triumph 2000 MK1 wiring loom when I did the Triumph/BMW engine conversion, but this is the first complete re-wire I've attempted. The Land Rover is pretty simple though and while I'm sure a professional could do it neater, quicker and with less re-work or waste, it is happening. All the circuits that are fully installed work and there's enough now that I could drive it and it'll pass a MOT. I'm afraid that Lucas smoke isn't the right stuff, the Landy is negative earth! And while the BMW ECU into Triumph sounds impressive, it was only one wire!
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Last Edit: Jan 25, 2024 20:07:38 GMT by andyborris
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 24, 2024 20:05:47 GMT
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So, in-between the storms, yellow weather warnings and just general life, I've had a few hours to work on the Landy. Did I mention that a new Durite Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge, arrived to replace the new Durite Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge that I bu**ered by snipping through it's capillary tube when I went to re-position it? Put the tube for this one in some convoluted tubing to protect it, I've also installed the way it should’ve been the first time. I'm burning through a bit of money doing rework, i.e. as above or re-routing wires, which then need new crimps because of the new route etc.. Once the gauge was fitted and plumbed in and the capillary safely routed. I re-fitted the alternator, it's multi-vee belt, support/brace and the top hose, or as it's also known, everything that was removed to access the temp gauge sensor bulb. Then today, using some battery cable removed from the County, I wired the alternator. Battery cable may seem a bit of overkill, but when I collected the engine from a nice chap in Dorsert, (wish I'd taken some photos of the 30's supercharged pick up he was building), he offered me some extras for free. The alternator was one, but I have no idea of it's output and I think this type comes in many flavours, from 55 amps up to 120. So I've killed 2 birds with one stone, an alternator wire that'll cope regardless of the amps and have very little voltage drop! Then I connected the starter using the original cable, then re-positioned the solenoid activation wire because both the starter cable and this wire are routed differently and in convoluted tubing away from the exhaust manifold and it’s heat. Pleased with how this looks, even though no-one will see it. The starter cable and solenoid wire, which you can't see! The battery cable will gain a better fixing in time! Horn, all lights, brake lights, wipers, indicators, starting/charging circuit and the radiator fan circuit all now fitted and tested. Re-routed some wires to achieve a neater appearance, this adds considerably to the time the work is taking, but nowhere waiting for parts to arrive does. Not sure if I’ve reached the halfway stage yet, I’ve got reverse, rear fogs, fuel pump, coil and screen wash to wire and I want to move the fuel pump closer to the tank by mounting it on the chassis. It’s under the bonnet at the moment, which adds to the general noise in the cabin and has to draw the fuel up from the tank, I’d rather the pump was gravity feed, it’ll last longer. I’ll need new fuel pipe for this, so if anyone can suggest a trustworthy supplier for fuel hose please. Not sure if it’s problem now, but when I built the Triumph a lot of hose was marked as safe with modern fuel, only to leak after a few months! And then when all that’s done it’s the part I’m dreading, I remove the whole loom to sleeve it! And hopefully I'll drive it up here one day.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 23, 2024 22:39:21 GMT
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I've just fitted a 92/87 switch, which may be too cool, I've been Googling and reading that the thermostat isn't fully open till 96/98 degrees...! It's an easy thing to change though and I'd rather it's running slightly too cool rather then too hot, "given the history of this one".
That's my new favourite quote now!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 23, 2024 19:38:46 GMT
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Perhaps either position works but needs different temperature settings....anyway can't change the sender position on the Lightweight.
However I did think of using a surface mount switch, perhaps glue it to the rad, but I couldn't find one with temp limits I wanted and using 2, one high and one low to control the rad fan was more technical than I could be bothered or cope with!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 22, 2024 17:28:29 GMT
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As ever, it's the packaging that dictates the position, simply haven't got the space to fit a sender in the bottom hose, it's in the upward leg of the upside L that is the top hose and so I hope, always in the coolant.
"history of this" did make me smile.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 21, 2024 20:35:06 GMT
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I’m sentimental, I can’t deny it. And when an old and faithful tool reaches the end of it’s life, I’m sad. I remember the good times, the bad and how long we’ve been together. Today a spring inside my ratchet insulated crimp tool failed and the tool stopped working properly. I brought it, roughly 45 years ago from the big car spares dealer on the A13 in Dagenham, the name of which escapes me, but may have been a branch of Ripaults. My daily driver at the time was a pre-airflow Lotus Cortina MK1, which I used to drive to work in Hackney as a bus driver for London Transport,( driving Routemasters). My children were all under 5 years old when I took them to the 1st ever Bromley Pagent in it and it’s a perfect example, (the ratchet crimper, that no longer ratchets!) of a possession recalling all sorts of memories. Anyway back to the present and further wiring completed. Panel lights wired, decided that the new water temp gauge should always be on with the sidelights, it’s too important not to be illuminated, the other dials can be turned off for night driving. A radiator fan override switch installed along with a radiator fan off switch too. It’s a Land Rover and I do hope to use it in it’s natural environment, which may include some water deeper than a puddle and the last thing I’ll need is an electric fan spraying the engine bay with water as I traverse the rivers and floods that may be in my path! O.K. a bit over the top there, but still a good idea. I can now turn on or off the rad fan independently of the thermo switch in the cooling system. Removed the dash map light, seems to have a been a trailer side light, so very low wattage bulb and not much light. The hole left behind is very neat, a superb piece of metalworking and I’ve no idea how to fill/hide it! Then the girlfiend fell over with a pain in her side and that was that.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Correct 👍 the diode blocks the reverse feed so light will only be on when the switch is on. Gotcha, and this means I can do the dash wiring today while it's tipping down! Just won't connect the earth wire to the switch till the diode arrives!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 20, 2024 20:11:26 GMT
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Sorry if I'm being dense, but the diode is used to stop the led in the switch being on all the time?
So if the override switch is off and the thermo switch is on, the 12v can "flow" the wrong way and illuminate the led?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 20, 2024 13:56:28 GMT
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Like this?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 20, 2024 13:36:36 GMT
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Or is there another way to wire it?
Perhaps just using the switch as a jumper to connect each side of the thermo switch? Not really worried about a warning light, the noise and vibration when all 4 fans are running, won't let you forget there're on!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 20, 2024 13:33:20 GMT
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Jan 20, 2024 13:31:29 GMT
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OK, which diode and why?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,158
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Jan 20, 2024 13:30:19 GMT
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yes that would work. I would also add a warning light between the dotted line and earth, it will also come on with the thermo switch which I like, if you don't the dotted wire will need a diode. Got me a switch with a LED in the levers end (very whizzy!), will that do and why would I need to insert a diode if I don't have a warning light?
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