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Apr 28, 2024 21:25:22 GMT
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Apr 28, 2024 20:56:57 GMT
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You make it look so easy, lol.
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Apr 27, 2024 22:44:26 GMT
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Not many progress photos, but progress is being made. The lower steering bearing mount is finished & welded up, not the prettiest of welds as it was difficult access but it's never going to fall off. Steering now spins easily with a light touch. Tunnel has been tidied up on the edges and fully seam sealed ready for paint. Today I spent a few hours working out the wiring, I had serious thoughts about stripping it all out & rewiring it during the week, but it's not actually wired too bad - just a bit ill thought out and not the neatest installation. My main bugbear with it is the poor insulated crimp connectors - I hate them as half of them the wires just fall out as the crimps don't work very well. I will go through every connector & fit new proper crimped connectors with shrink wrap covers. The other bit is the wires (four) across the roof are not in conduit, not much I can do about that as the (extremely nice) headlining is all glued in. Fortunately it's all low power circuits and all are fused so it is what it is. I did manage to peel back the headlining from the screen upper area, and strip out some of the redundant wiring (looks like the wiring was started by one person then done again (better) by another?) This clarified the wiring for me as there is a black wire that is the power feed to the main electrics relay (slightly odd as the 'ign' switch is actually only a power feed to a big relay that then powers up the whole car) I've now put red shrink wrap over it so it's more obvious it's a power wire and not an earth. I've now added some wiring (properly sheathed) so the fuel pump & coil feed are now operated by a second switch rather that the power relay (which is what Andy wanted) and I've added some wiring so the ign light will actually work off the alternator as this was not wired in. Hoping to get Andy over this weekend to go through a few bits with him to make sure that the ideas I have will work for him with his limited hand movments.
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Apr 26, 2024 21:58:27 GMT
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I'm hoping to catch up with John the sparky as well. Look for the mad pop with the rear wing.
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Apr 26, 2024 21:54:53 GMT
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And here's a photo showing how far out the coilover mounts were.
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Apr 26, 2024 21:15:26 GMT
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Apr 26, 2024 21:10:36 GMT
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I hear what you are saying metalshapes but this sort of thing is totally unacceptable in any situation whatsoever. This is the steering rack input shaft, welded in 2 places.
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Apr 26, 2024 16:43:43 GMT
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Glen, that's too easy, I'm posting photos of it chopped up with my plasma cutter
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Apr 26, 2024 16:17:09 GMT
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I expect it to be safe, maybe not finished too well, and some cost cutting here and there, but not literally a dangerous car that would possibly kill them or others.
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He does indeed. If anyone needs suspension bits or even a whole car built, give him a call on 07759 374128. The suspension arms are back ready for assembly.
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Apr 25, 2024 11:55:01 GMT
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Wayne has already built the crossmember The stand it's sitting on is for me to just put on the floor so it's set at ride height - that will make building the new chassis rails so much easier.
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Apr 25, 2024 11:53:28 GMT
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For a light car a remote servo on the front circuit only works well, but a simpler option which gives some warning of an issue is to fit a float in the cap of the reservoir and a warning light. (Car builders solutuons sell the parts). Already on the 'to do list'
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Dual circuit not really practical as ir has a remote brake servo.
Paul, bulkhead is only sheet steel, plus I'd need to extend the M/C pushrod.
Asking for the bits back is downright criminal. I will chop them up with my plasma cutter so they can never see a car again.
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Apr 24, 2024 23:13:37 GMT
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Casn you believe it??? Thr builder of the front suspension contacted Andy's wife tonight and asked for all of the front suspension back if we were not using it anymore as he took it off another car and wants to use it!! Told her to give him my number and ask me Bit more progress tonight, take some ally and turn it into swarf;
cut, cut, cut, file, file file, sand ,sand.... and we have this.
remove the spring(?) off the brake pedal and throw it in the bin. (thats about 15mm diameter for scale)
And mock it all back up again with the spacers fitted and a decent spring fitted. I'll get some clevis pins for the spring and brake rod pivots, and proper bolts for the M/C.
It all fits so much better now with room for the brake pipe to exit outside the passenger compartment. It will be easy to close this off properly now. That a temp bit of brake pipe chopped off the original to test the room and angle.
Started on the new mount for the steering column lower bearing.
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Apr 24, 2024 19:30:18 GMT
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Ctek chargers every time. Ctek
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Apr 24, 2024 12:37:22 GMT
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I wouldn't - it's so sticky it literally pulls your shoes off.
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Apr 24, 2024 12:33:54 GMT
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I can't disagree with any of the above. Aparrently it's not the first car to have to be rebuilt. There is a thread on a VW Corrado somewhere detailing a similar tale of woe from Car SOS.
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Apr 23, 2024 21:48:17 GMT
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I went over to Oddrods tonight and dropped off the stub axles and a shock so Wayne can get on with building the new crossmember. He has already made the wishbones - he's very quick to build stuff - and they will be going off tomorrow for cleaning & paint. I decided to pull the column out when I got home to check if there were any more horrors there - glad to report that there is no butchery of those parts at least. Andy was hoping I could move the steering wheel over a bit away from the door. It is actually nice and central to the driver, but there is a little bit of room to maybe move it 10-15mm without fabricating anything new. While that was out I looked at the big hole where the master cylinder goes through the bulkhead and how I might close this off. There is enough room to space it off the mount about 10mm which should give me room for the brake pipe to exit on the engine side, which will let me close it all off nicely to be airtight. What I did not expect to find was only one nut fixing the master cylinder on to the mount - and it is not even a nylock nut I mean For FU**S SAKE!!! WTF???
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Apr 22, 2024 22:46:53 GMT
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Not too much to report tonight as I did not have too much garage time. I spent some time measuring the front for Wayne at OddRods and will take the shocks & hubs over to him tomorrow night so he can start making the new front end. I had to set the camber first to be able to measure the hub width, the passenger side was 1.87 degrees and the drivers side nearly 4 degrees! I set both at 0.5 degree for the basic track width. Further checking showed that both lower wishbones are different sizes The drivers side being wider hence the extra camber. Then it was time to start taping the floor so I could take some plumb line points from the rear suspension points and the front end. I'll continue this later in the week to determine the cars centreline so I can take diagonals once the new front arrives to ensure everything is square. I found (another) big puddle of trans fluid on the floor tonight, further investigation shows it to be the kickdown cable leaking. This is a known problem on the GM180 box, and difficult to cure aparrently. A new kickdown cable will be going in and I've ordered some RTV sealant designed to resist trans fluid so hopefully that will fix it. The pen is pointing at the problem area. In the meantime I've started on the sloppy gear selector issue. The problem is that when the selector is moved it just rocks on the first pivot on the threaded bar rather than pushing the bar forwards. The short bar should never have been used in this setup so the swan neck bit of tube will be grafted in to keep the ball joint tight to the shifter base (which is over the centre of the tailshaft).
And with the tube made up the balljoint is now where it needs to be. I won't be able to finish this off untill the gearbox is back in the car so I can check clearance and also make sure all gears are selected correctly.
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Apr 22, 2024 22:10:41 GMT
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blackpopracing what stud pattern have the front hubs been made? If they are 5x112, I may have a pair of mk2 Granada hubs that are 5 stud already, vented discs and calipers (discs are lower offset than whats on the CarSOS pop, and shouldn't need spacers for the calipers) Just checked and they are 4.5" PCD.
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