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Aug 28, 2020 17:04:55 GMT
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I'm now having exact same issue as GN, posted a pic this morning, not working this afternoon. Nothing changed here. Logged out, cleared cookies, logged in... Only ever use the desktop version Long reply, Add Pictures and I get --->
[/img]
EDIT
OK saw the website is broken post, somewhere else...
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 17:14:21 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 28, 2020 16:56:03 GMT
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Yea I look into your thread occasionally but it's a bit scary! Try again with the pic [/img] Nope not working !
... Ahh now it is Hopefully I can get some bits chopped off a breaker
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 20:50:27 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 28, 2020 15:32:33 GMT
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Less scary with it cut out, just need to source a bit of bodywork!
.. Hmm tried to add a pic and cloudflare told me I was blocked for doing that ....
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 15:37:41 GMT by wightfug
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Most of what I can see is pretty good, not had it on a lift yet. Sills and floor plates have been done already. Front subframe is a worry though - nothing visible but I know how difficult it is to see. I'll take a look at your thread. I think water has run down from the repair and got underneath the rubberised protection that was painted in there. Though it seems a prime spot for water to just sit Let you know on the manual conversion, if there is a demand I expect it to be from the later XKR's up to 06
EDIT - great write up thanks. Not so sure about the rust converter at £30 a can though!
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 12:19:12 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 27, 2020 21:27:25 GMT
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Oscilloscope for diagnostics. With a 2 channel scope you can check timing (as in belt/chain and as in points), compression, fuel pressure, the performance of many different sensors (eg cam, crank, abs, map, maf, O2, temperature), the CAN bus, injector performance, coil performance, misfires, sticking valves, blocked exhausts.... and on and on. Together with a basic OBD2 reader and ever more available electrical/workshop manuals there is now a huge amount of diagnostic power for DIY prices.
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Aug 27, 2020 20:10:32 GMT
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Bumper bolts came off no issue. Found a Bodywork bill for £900 in 2015. The lower edge from the dent/hole to the arches is completely shot, the other side is not much better, more destructive investigation tomorrow... Looking up
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Last Edit: Aug 27, 2020 20:15:38 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 27, 2020 16:44:33 GMT
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looks like fun with regard to the gearing, 2700@70 sounds quite busy, with a big engine like this it'd be happy at lower revs. My bmw is barely at 2k at 80mph and it still has enough oomph to progress without a downshift If I got my number right the graph I posted here forum.retro-rides.org/post/2618686 shows 1800/2100 for 5th/6th at 70. I think I have a solution for the electronics but want to get the car through it's MOT before I start removing vital parts and wiring in the arduino to test it.
homersimpson you can get arches but this has had a prang there and something has gone wrong with the repair I think. There was plenty of rubber sealant on the inside of the rust as I pushed my finger through it and big chunks of filler coming off with rust attached! The white in the pic is good metal. It is corroded all the way down where it joins the bumper but the body is reasonably flat for a section above that so I expect I will try and get a breaker to cut that section out for me and I'll weld it in. Chucking it down so not got to bumper yet except to add pen oil.
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Aug 27, 2020 13:10:56 GMT
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Well that's not going to buff out! Bumper off next, it's only 2 bolts... steel bolts, through an aluminium bumper... what could possibly go wrong
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Aug 27, 2020 10:23:52 GMT
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Right, since I have the time available it's time to delv into the unknown with the bodywork. Poor Kate has some crusty arches, rust at the bumper and a big knock on the rear to deal with. Me, I like oscilloscopes and diag machines, all this is not completely new but not done any visible bodywork before. I've read tons of @grumpynorthener info on paint, prep, filler etc. so hopefully it will not be a complete bodge job...
So far it's had a good coat of looking at..
I am guessing that the cars did not come from the factory with a few mm of filler so this has been fixed before, looking at the bubbling I think it has rusted under the filler. Time to pull out the inside where I can and take a look.
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Aug 26, 2020 12:26:27 GMT
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Burned the mains for 30 mins - no issues with the wrap - if anything the heat smoothed out more wrinkles ! Condensation is an issue in these light units and Jag issued a TSB to drill a 9mm hole in the side and add a bit o pipe. I did this to the reflector fix side but no difference to the condensation forming even as I burned the mains. I have seen a few other solutions involving silica pouches or cat litter (- appropriate), but I would rather ventilate than accumulate. I cut a 30mm hole in the clear top cover for bulb changing, it's tucked up under the bonnet but I uses silicone to stick on a patch of roofing membrane that (like Goretex etc) is breathable but water proof. Run it under a tap and nice and dry.
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Aug 25, 2020 15:40:25 GMT
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2020 15:41:14 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 24, 2020 20:05:20 GMT
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Well that was my theory (manifold leak or at least between the cylinder and the O2 sensor) but the fuel trims you show say not.
Though now I am wondering how hot the engine was when you took those readings - coolant certainly was not at full temperature.
Did the car cool down before the emissions were done? That would explain the 1st/2nd Fast idle difference.
So I am revising my theory to an exhaust leak between cylinder and O2 sensor that only opens up when the exhaust gets very hot! Rather than pull the manifold off can you try the blower test I mentioned - also take a good look around the O2 sensor boss as well and make sure the engine (neighbours not withstanding) is at full, full temp.
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Aug 24, 2020 18:30:32 GMT
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I do not understand the massive lambda difference between first fast idle and second - it is still saying that it's running hugely lean - I am assuming you would have mentioned if it was only running on 3 cylinders as that could be a missfire. - But nothing in the fuel trims.
According to the 2nd fast you are waaay lean so you would expect to see LTFT pegged at 25%... unless air is coming in after the O2 sensor which brings me back to exhaust leak.
Another thought do these have an EGR valve? Something changed between fast and 2nd fast idle. I am thinking stuck and leaking air in. At that lambda value you would have such a lean state that you would only have a partial combustion which would account for the excess HC
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Last Edit: Aug 24, 2020 18:39:50 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 24, 2020 13:23:10 GMT
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Apparently there is no perfect solution other that a few hundred quids worth of kit to DIY or the same in pro service.
Someone has replaced them with Hella 90mm units hoping to get some more details on that as it is an upgrade as well. Alternatively an ebay breaker has one for daft-ish money. MOT is not until 7th so time to experiment..
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Aug 23, 2020 17:28:59 GMT
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Might have come up with a solution for the missing autobox electronics, it's all theoretical but it will be good if it works. Breaking out the Arduino and CAN interface next few days for some try out. Meanwhile something that was not flagged on the MOT but that I can see being an issue if it gets worse is the O/S main beam reflector has lost half it's Chrome. Used lamps sets are £200 and so far no luck finding just a reflector (real or can be made to fit) so I'm thinking chrome vinyl wrap or chrome paint over black gloss. - I did try with a metal film tape that I have- as it is a thin film of Ali it can be polished - it was "OK" but can do better I think.
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Last Edit: Aug 23, 2020 17:37:07 GMT by wightfug
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I put the Mk2.5 1.8 into my Sandrail. Make sure you get the exact year wiring diagram if you can. I stripped the loom down to just what was needed by unpicking the wires from the connectors.
Have you moved the engine or have you inherited the problem? Usually you would keep the whole loom and gauges as it does not section out easily, test to make sure it runs, then strip it out. The immobiliser is not an issue, just make sure to use the same ignition and keep the detector ring (2 white twisted wires) connected.
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Aug 22, 2020 21:39:33 GMT
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Well that all looks good to me, fuel trims are OK, sensors look about right - though I would expect a leaner voltage on the downstream, but nothing indicating big problems. Looks like something you did fixed it!
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Aug 22, 2020 17:05:17 GMT
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A tip I saw recently reminded me of this thread. If you have a shop vac that you can set to blow or a HVLP paint sprayer, with the engine cold hook it up to the exhaust, with duct tape, spray some soapy water on your manifold and watch for bubbles.
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2020 17:05:57 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 16, 2020 11:25:37 GMT
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Thats the upstream one yes? The output oscillation at 1/s seems ok to me. I think your downstream O2 is dead and you are seeing bias voltage on it. A squirt of your chosen flammable aerosol whilst watching the output on Torque will confirm. An exhaust/manifold leak before the upstream O2 will allow air IN, this drives the sensor low (as seen from your graph at <0.1V so the ECU richens the mix, driving up your CO and HC - the cat will probably be too cool to be working properly, but it still may be pulling some of the HC and CO out. However that same extra air then throws the emissions calculation off to show that the engine is running lean (lambda very high) High fuel trims will back up (but not prove) the theory...
EDIT - also is that a white deposit on the sensor - could be coolant, now or in the past..
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2020 11:32:02 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 16, 2020 10:26:00 GMT
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PIM - One of the few ebay sellers I trust, I have bought quite a few things from them and it always comes in an original box in a sealed bag. Really need Fuel trims to get much further.
Having said that I think your rear O2 is dead, 450mV is likely bias voltage - check the ground - which may be dedicated back to the ECU, but that is not causing your emissions problem. Squirt a bit of brake cleaner in at idle (assuming the car is warm) and watch to see if it goes high.
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2020 10:30:35 GMT by wightfug
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