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Jul 19, 2020 13:14:16 GMT
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After much googling I found a post of someone testing the very same O2 sensor 7 years ago and they got 0.9 ohms on the heater and it worked fine.
Parts like O2 sensors, cam and crank sensors that are part of the ECU self testing I stick to good branded gear Denso/Delphi/Bosch etc. Ideally the OEM for the manufacturer. Lots of instances of cheap after-market parts causing more trouble as they are not exactly the same spec and the ECU does not like it.
The other time to buy good branded gear is when the part is cheap but the install is hours - that wheel bearing will not be the 5.99 ebay special that's for sure!
Brand fakes are an issue though which is why I test what I can before install and take a good hard look at the quality of finish.
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Jul 18, 2020 23:39:32 GMT
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Sorry, vital info missing - Front wheel bearing !
New supposedly genuine Denso O2 sensor arrived - Heater resistance of 1.1ohms - can not find the spec anywhere for either the Jag or the sensor! But I think the Jag expects 9 ohms and Hella says heater range is 2-14ohms. have to get out and measure tomorrow.
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2020 23:43:22 GMT by wightfug
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Jul 18, 2020 12:21:06 GMT
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Next on the To-Do list is the wheel bearing - pfff how difficult can that be ?
Very, apparently Once you have removed the upright to the bench, you need a £50 special tool to remove the nut- and not one you can fudge or easily replicate. The ABS ring/hub nut is done up to 330Nm that is a 6ft pole on 3/4" drive job - and a VERY strong bench / vice to hold it. - That is three times tighter than your average wheel nut - and that was when it was done up 23 years ago... Then you need a press to apply up to 20T to remove the actual bearing that costs about £25
Alternatively I can find a whole hub replacement for £40-£150 and save myself the agro even though I have access to all of the above.
No I can't, ebay was telling fibs, better turn up the Uga-dugga machine to max...
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2020 14:04:15 GMT by wightfug
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Jul 17, 2020 18:53:19 GMT
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Thanks all!
An oscilloscope makes for a great diag tool, on my X-type diesel for example I scoped the rail pressure sensor and injector firing current (with a clamp), I was able to see not only pump performance but if the injectors were being fired and actually passing fuel. With a £25 scope from ebay you can do a 5 minute "relative compression test" that will tell you if you have any compression issues - or if your timing is (way) out, that same scope can test a crank or cam sensor...
Back to the To-Do list The windows were randomly going up and down instead of dropping when you open the door and closing when shut - that was an easy reset procedure. Shut the doors and hold the window button down until it clicks, same with the up repeat x 3 for good luck and all sorted.
There were various spurious gearbox/abs/engine warning lights at start up, along with about 10 different codes set in the BCM (body control module) - that could only mean one thing.... a low battery! These cars really do not like a low battery.
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Jul 16, 2020 22:55:21 GMT
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To Do first - emissions
Looking at the RH bank I can see that with Lambda at 0.81 it is running really, really rich - in fact you don't need any fancy kit to notice that she smells like a bonfire at a petrol station. So rich in fact that the cat would not be able to operate at all. and of course the CO and HC are way out as what is burning can't fully burn so it leaves lots of CO and what does not burn is left as HC - ie un-burnt petrol.
LH bank was a fail too though not so bad - I wondered if in fact the LH bank was fine but the exhaust X over was contaminating it from the Right side.
Plugging her in and there are no codes stored but looking at the fuel trims I see
Bank 1 RH/OS) LTFT = 15%, STFT = 19.6%
Bank 2 LH/NS LTFT = -3.9%, STFT = +3.9%
This translates as RH = Richer than Bezos, LH = perfect, like the wife (mine, not Mrs Bezos).
So the O2 sensor on the RH bank is telling the ECU to extra fuel as there is "lots of free air available", the stink of petrol out the back end tells us that is not correct.
Couple of things that can cause that, but as there is no obvious rough running I suspect the O2 sensor is telling fibs. The scan tool helpfully shows the voltage coming out of the two O2 sensors, RH =0v - dead or very lean, LH=0.51v - spot on.
If the O2 sensor died of old age- that's a bonus, if it has not been run for long like that then the cat might be ok. or not. If the O2 sensor was killed by oil or coolant then that is a bit more expensive.
I could feel a slight vibration in the engine at idle so wanted to check for a misfire so I built an exhaust pressure sensor for the oscilloscope from a few bits of waste pipe and a 99p piezo sensor. - The commercial version "Firstlook" is £350
Shove the pipe up the exhaust and you can see the pressure waves caused by the exhaust valve opening - all seems OK as the peaks and shapes are nice and even.
RH top, LH bottom
That makes me happy so next stop check for power at the RH O2 sensor and likely replace it.
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Jul 16, 2020 22:06:30 GMT
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Grumpy's pics as I have not taken any yet..
Overall pretty good - inside is en especially good shape. The colour is Sherwood Metallic Pearl which is a nice deep mossy colour- much better than BRG in my opinion. The paint is odd on the roof and boot, it looks as if the clear coat has gone milky. There is a nasty rusty dent in the back and the arches are shot. Mechanics I can do and diagnostics I love ... but I have done zero bodywork so this will be a steep learning curve. On to the To-Do list
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Last Edit: Jul 16, 2020 22:08:39 GMT by wightfug: Picture problems!
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Jul 16, 2020 22:04:24 GMT
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Kate the XK8 - Very curvy but bad breath..
A RR pass the parcel! Originally bought by a regular RR car collector and then sold on here as they no time to sort the body work (flat paint , a rusty dent and rusty arches). She was bought by @grumpynorthener who after a few months was looking to sell her on as he had no time to sort it either.
I came along looking for a Jag XK8 and once I had moved on my Sandrail and Saab 9-3, GN kindly agreed to put her in for an MOT to make transport easier - based on previous MOT's and how well looked after she was, we were both expecting her to breeze through it. Alas not.
There was an MOT fail rust issue (not expected) along with general rust (definitely expected), a sticky brake, a wheel bearing and a few bushes and some other bits, all sortable at medium cost. But the big one - emissions. They were a fail on all points, both banks failed and the MOT garage's opinion was that she "needed 2 new cats". Mee..ouch.
This then made her a much bigger project as if the cats are dead then something killed them - which could be any number of things from cheap to making her a parts car. But, I like a challenge so a deal was made, GN did the MOT welding (I can weld but not to his standard!) and helped with moving her.
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2020 17:08:30 GMT by wightfug
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Jul 14, 2020 11:53:57 GMT
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Extract the oil through the dipstick, you may get lucky.
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97 Jaguar xk8 by any chance?
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Thanks Ritchie - split charging control is something I had not thought of but makes sense as you can select either battery bank to be running onboard loads as there is no seperate house bank
Yep diesel. Built for a good turn of speed and manoeuvrability as she has twin Schottel drives with pulling props.
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We have a converted Port of London Authority patrol boat built in 1963 that I am busy overhauling before selling it.
It has twin Twin C6TFLM 6 cyl Rolls Royce engines, and the engine room has a whole bunch of systems - mostly redundant/ancient that I will be removing, replacing or leaving as is.
Can any one tell me what these 2 Lucas CAV "current voltage control" units do - Inverter? Alternator control? Alternator to battery voltage regulator ? Each engine has a massive alternator on it (and a fire pump of course!) and there are 2 banks of 24v batteries.
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2020 20:41:29 GMT by wightfug
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I had one of these just a year or so younger - absolutely loved it, drives like a car/comfy armchair, huge transport space, rear bench seat was removable, sliding doors. 45mpg. GLWS!
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I finally put the Sandrail on eBay Classified having had no success from here, a buggy site or my local classifieds. Had the usual dealers and chancers but it was sold with 3 days and I had another 3 follow ups saying "let me know if it falls through."
I know that negotiation is entertainment for some people (but not usually the seller). I said it's £4,750 - let's say it was up for 5K you said 4.5K and we settled on £4,750 - and that's what it sold for.
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Jun 21, 2020 12:33:58 GMT
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Well I didn't know I was a fan of old vans, but that is just lovely !
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Jun 21, 2020 11:24:01 GMT
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Yes I got it from FFX - but via ebay as they were having issues with their website check out. I bought it particularly for the 24 bolts on a timing chain cover with little access, batteries seem to last forever. Hope you find it as useful as I do.
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Jun 20, 2020 14:41:30 GMT
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I bought the much cheaper Sealey ratchet - use it all the time, it's light and small. Start the nut by hand and whizz off with this thing, same for putting stuff together. The beauty of it is that you do not need any swing room. Worried it would never get used but it's definitely a favourite tool
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Jun 18, 2020 12:45:08 GMT
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Sold!
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Last Edit: Jun 9, 2020 21:36:54 GMT by wightfug
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May 29, 2020 21:43:35 GMT
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If it happens when hot I would be suspecting a coil, - that will gradually get worse. Possibly the crank sensor as they in general are known to be heat sensitive - I know the later 1.8 so not sure if they are on the pulley on yours - if so less likley to have heat issues.
Unlikely to be an air leak as that would be much worse at idle and disapear at higher RPM. Fuel filter, pump etc not likely heat affected.
As above though, the flash codes from the diag port will save you throwing parts at it.
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Apr 19, 2020 23:22:32 GMT
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You would end up back here:
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