|
|
|
What a great car, always loved Mk3's. My dad had an estate version many years ago. It met it's end when a chimney pot was blown off a roof and hit the bonnet! That's a very cool film with your car giving it a great soundtrack
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Waveman, yep a lot of fun has been had during this build. Long may the fun continue ;D Ta Muchly Rian, it's almost awesome, maybe when I can get it to turn corners it will be ;D I guess the only way for people to know about the "odds I'm up against" is to show them! Thanking you kindly Sir, Yep we do do daft quite well here ;D I'm not sure about one of the best builds on here as there are some truly stunning builds here, but thanks anyway. Lol, it feels like an epic the time it has taken to build. If you have a lawn in your garden then it's big enough to need a ride-on Well, it's been a few weeks since test drive day, and so far the beast has only managed to turn a little bit despite lot's of playing with the steering brakes. Part of the problem was a lot of air hiding in the brake lines. We only found out it was there when we tried bleeding the brakes pumping directly on the master cylinder and not by pulling on the steering levers! Longer levers directly on the cylinders helped a bit. The cylinders were pulled out from their hiding place behind the dash to make testing easier. The main problem has been the master cylinders, I think that in the end 1 cylinder of 1/2" bore was just not enough to pressurize 2 calipers! Time to hit Fleabay again, this time for a pair of Honda Fireblade rear brake cylinders with a whooping 5/8" bore. Still waiting on one of them, but one turned up Friday Woo-Hoo, we have brake pressure without the cylinder bottoming out.. I also had a close look at the calipers. Two of the four had er.. rotting piston tops I guess it's some kind of sound deadening stuff in "pad" form?? As replacing the pistons would of cost a few £££'s and the sound pad stuff is not really needed for my application, it got trimmed off. And replaced with an ally disc. And that good people is this thread up to date again. Fingers crossed the other Fireblade rear master cylinder will turn up Tuesday or Wednesday so I can test drive it again... Speaking of test drives, I noticed that my MooTube viewing figure went up quite a bit when I posted the vid's on here, So I guess someone is watching them.. Thanks Guys Here's the next episode of this projects build.. Enjoy.
|
|
Last Edit: May 6, 2012 16:45:00 GMT by Stigian
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2012 11:50:59 GMT
|
Not much left to tell really, I bought this Kohler KT-17 engine for spares (my Kohler magnum 20 engine was developed from the KT), it's only fit for spares as a con rod snapped and punched two holes in the block As well as donating the engine mounting plate and smaller filler cap, it's air filter adapter allowed me to bolt a "Raider" style air filter, with added oil breather pipe straight to the carb. Plenty of space with the bonnet closed ;D Once the front and middle axles had a hole drilled for a split pin. The beast could be bolted back together. Pete bolting one of the front axles on. Wheels and outrigger on one side. Hood and fender pan.. Yippie.. It's back on all 6 wheels again ;D A newly made wiring loom, I hate wiring so I'm quite glad it's a simple loom. Wiring in. Temporary fuel tank/can in.. Best fire up the engine and see if it produces a charge..... It does ;D A big pile of drive belts turned up in the post.. Don't you just love the smell of fresh rubber in the morning ;D Bit of a shame I had to reorder the belts again, I just can't get the knack for measuring one off belts! Once the belts were installed the beast was put on axles stands for testing if the drive system and steering brakes work.. Which you can see here.. Only one thing left to do... Get the beast off the bench and go for a test drive. Ok, it didn't all go according to plan, but where would be the fun in something working first time That that Lady's and Gent's is this build thread finally up to date.. The next part of the build is to get it working as it should, install the 3 point and hydraulics at the back, and get it ready to go to the Ardingly show in July.. Thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2012 11:18:35 GMT
|
From this point on the story is lot's of jumping about doing lot's of the "little" jobs.. Like the belt tensioners that keep the wheel to wheel belts tight. Take some steel bar and some bearings.. A quick visit to the lathe.. Ta-Daa. Pulley and bearings fitted. Slot's cut in the outriggers to tighten the belts. Tensioner installed.. It's in their somewhere, think it's the black bit in the middle.. Some extra steel had to be added at the rear to hold the seat/fenders on, but as part of the 3 point linkage will be attached I had to make it strong. Unbolted from the chassis and turned over for seam welding. Welded and painted. With help from Rob (he has been known to smile once in a while ;D) the chassis was stripped bare.. And turned over so I could do the last of the chassis seam welding. That looks better. I almost forgot to weld in the battery tray mounts while the chassis was the wrong way up!! Trapped!!!!! well not quite. Pete paused from chassis turning duties to take this snap. The bare chassis with the rear "aboveframe" and outriggers on. This was the first time I had seen the complete chassis in it's naked form! Some captive nuts ready to be welded.. Here, here, here and there. These are just something extra to make sure the trans will stay firmly in the right place. A Wheel Horse trans is normally just held on to the chassis with four bolts, the mounting plates have been known to crack! New oil seals went in the trans. This is what the captive nuts were for! One rather handy (or footy) part that was missing was the parking brake pedal. As the pedal has to fit around a bar that is closed off each end, I had to make something that wrapped around the bar. Here's the basic design scribbled on a slab of steel, and the offending bar it has to fit over. The idea is.. Trim the block to size, cut it in half, bolt it back together again and bore the center out. A bit like this ;D This plate.. Bolts on the block and connects to the brake rod. A bit of fab work later and we have a pedal Painted with grip.
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Guy's glad you like it Well, another well overdue update is here, and it's time to get the sexy looking 20hp twin bolted to the chassis.. But to work out the right position for it a pulley is needed. There was no chance of finding an "off the shelf" pulley the right size that would fit the engines tapered crankshaft, so I had to make my own. Time to use up some more cutting disc's Finished off with the hacksaw.. Ta-Daa.. Celebrate with a coffee ;D Then mark the center of the square before cutting the corners off. It's lathe time!! The finished pulley blank. A quick test fit on the engine.. Then time to get "into the groove" back on the lathe. It was handy having the right size pulley to take measurements from. Hydro Wheel Horses have a larger engine pulley than a manual. Trim a bit of weight off. The finished "pulley" bit. Now for the part which will fit on the tapered shaft.. Starting with a length of pillar drill leg. Trim trim.. Almost there.. That's the outside of this piece done.. It's taper time.. Drill the center out a bit.. Set the "worked out" angle. Macro on the camera came in handy for getting a clear view! In goes the boring bar. A small taper. Checking I had got the angle right.. Close but a little play.. Tweak the angle a tad, take some more material out and check the fit again. Very close now. Having found the right angle it was time to get serious. Tapered! But will it bolt onto the engine? ;D Due to a slight change in design I had to make the hole in the pulley a bit bigger.. The tapered bit got a good polishing as a bearing will be turning on it, then it went to sit in the freezer for a few hours. The pulley sat on the wood burner until it was hot enough to boil spit! Plop!!!! A perfect fit.. Once cooled the two parts had become one ;D A view from behind, the hole in the pulley is a perfect match for the end of the taper. Bolted on the engine with PTO clutch plate. And with the PTO pulleys. It was a lot of lathe work but I did want to fit a Wheel Horse PTO system on this engine ;D As you have been patient enough to read through loads of lathe work, have a video of the first time the engine was started.. The engine starting happens at the 4 min mark. Enjoy
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
Very nice, Ive always fancied a Baja bug.. Cool colour too.
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
Right Guy's and Girls, here's the last part of the steering brakes saga.. By now I'm sure you have worked out that although the sliders slide as they should.. They also rotate which is something I don't want them to do... I had the plan all worked out, only trouble was it meant drilling into the side of the sliders... Bit of a pain as the sliders originally being axles had been hardened!!.... So hard in fact that all I could do was make a small mark instead of a hole!! Part of the fun and also part of the reason why this build is taking so long is there are always problems like this to solve. The joys of building a "one off" machine with no plans ;D As always, ways can be found to get around problems, and the problem was solved when I got thinking about the key ways already cut in the sliders.. Some digging soon produced 2 Wheel Horse front wheel centers (which I could drill and tap) and some key steel.. A quick spin on the lathe to remove the lips.. One done here. It's easier just to show you the next stage rather than explain.. Weld the bit key steel and the wheel center thingy together. Weld on a washer.. A view from the inside.. Once bolted onto the slider it won't turn. Drilled, threaded and one "sideways stopper" on.. Ta-Daa (again).. The sliders can slide but not turn.. Only one thing missing from the steering system now, and that's the bit's your hand will touch... yep, the steering levers.. Starting with four small bit's of bar. After two longer bits went on for some starnge reason I had created a pair of Mini Moto bars ;D That's better.. One side tacked on. A little trim needed on the other side. Rob going for a "bench" test drive Fitted.. And to finish off this update, have moody black and white photo.. Thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings... "And remember.. May the 'orse be with you"..
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
And thus the steering brake saga continues.. Although the sliders were built, strengthened and bolted in place firmly, they still did no connect to the baster cylinders.. To fit the sliders in the lathe for hole drilling I had to remove the stoppers.. Here they are.. Slider in the lathe for a tad of hole drilling. And threaded.. Did I mention that the cylinders will now be mounted under here?? Best work out how to connect the sliders and cylinders up.. Take a flat bit of thick-ish steel.. Measure, mark out and start cutting...... Then remeasure, remark, and make sure to cut along the correct lines this time Sliced, bent and welded.. Oops!! One done.. And with lever.. Having cut the slider stoppers off, some new ones were needed.. So, back to the lathe.. Getting there.. Fitted ;D Throw in another bit of plate about to be cut from an old dash.. Weld on some box.. (Only tacked on in this pic) Paint blue to keep rust away.. Then bolt it all together including cylinders and push levers ;D
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
The help work out how much space the cylinders needed I had to work out how much "movement" the cylinder needed.. So a quick bit of brake pluming one side, followed by quite a lot of bleeding the air out of a fluid free system.. "New lesson Danielson"... Brake on.. Brake off ;D Lot's of time was spent working out the brake steering levers.. And trying to find space behind the dash panel to install it. But alas the space was too limited By that point in the day I'd had had enough of trying to work it out, but while I was sitting down drinking the last cuppa in the shack for the day I looked into the back of the dash and had a bit of a brain wave.. I was looking at the back of the switch and the empty switch hole!! The next day started with a dig though the "might come in handy one day" box and some treasures were unearthed.. A couple of Westwood ride on mower axles and a couple of "cut off" Westwood wheel centers which are a nice fit on the axles but still slide up and down. Cut one of the wheel centers in half and add a handle (or pen) and Hey-presto one sliding steering brake lever ;D So, under the drill the dash panel went for lot's of chain drilling. And after a lot of hole filing both brake slider thingys fitted. From the front. Having worked out how to make the slider brake thingys and worked out how to fit them through the dash, I now needed to work out a way of mounting them.. As luck would have it while digging through the "box of bits" looking for the slider bit's, I noticed a length of 3 sided box.. Which was just the right size to hold the sliders with a little clamp action.. Que a bit of welding.. And some tidying work with the grinder And via the medium of a slightly blurry photo the sliders take shape. Some plates were cut to strengthen the sliders each side. Welded on. To help keep the sliders/dash from moving under the stain of steering some legs were needed. I struck lucky when it came to mounting the legs, as there are holes in just the right place on the chassis. Cut a section out of an old mower (Mountfield I think) dash.. Measure, trim and weld on a threaded stud.. Ta-Daa That's looking a lot stronger now ;D
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
Thank you Mr Thames, love your van. Hi Grizz, yes best be careful with those words ;D I'm not sure about this build being "stunning"!, more like "functional" from close up.. I guess this thread hasn't had that many views as I'm a bit crab at posting regularly.. Having rapidly dying internet hasn't helped... Excuses I know.. Did you cross-post to anywhere? Viewer ship now over 6000 Hi Spiny, yep the build is still going strong.. Slowly but strong.. What's not to love about tractors and engineering.. ;D Thanks Tom. Only a 1 furrow plough!! I hope it should be able to handle a 3 furrow... Well, maybe in many years time when I build steel tracks for this machine.. Nice Fergie by the way In this issue of "Will he ever get this thread up to date!!", let's take a look at the brake steering system. Each side will be braked by by Qwackasaki Gpz discs and 2 calipers.. Trying to work out how to mount the calipers has been another one of those jobs that has been "put off" for as long as possible.. Starting with a pair of calipers and a few bits of box, a plan started to come together.. Add some more box section and garnish with loads of G-clamps. The frame on one side done. Now the part that involved lot's of head scratching.. The actual caliper mounts.. One of my favorite tools is a roll of masking tape, handy for making strange shape templates.. The 2 calipers are held together at the right angle by a little bracket. Transfer the tape to card and do a little trimming. A template test fit.. Yep I'm happy with that. Best make one out of steel then.. Hhmm.. lot's of chain drilling!! Once cut out it looked like someone had taken a few bites out!! Best smooth those teeth marks away.. It took quite a while to get the caliper sliders and the mounting plate lined up just right.. A few tack welds to hold things together. Lot's of grinding, painting and drilling bolt holes later and the n/s calipers were mounted ;D The o/s mounts taking shape.. That's the "braking bit" sorted.. Now onto the "make it brake" bit.. Yep the master cylinders and controls.. But where to mount them.. Here??? Here??? Best have a think...
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2012 13:59:18 GMT
|
Ouch, there's more air than metal!! Good luck with the rebuild, looking forward to following your progress.
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2012 13:55:15 GMT
|
With the back of the chassis extension welded on, I needed the trans bolted back on. Here's Pete doing the deed while trying not to get his hand stuck!! The reason I needed the trans back on?? A large box turned up in the post with Cat-1 3 point linkage parts in it ;D Now with added drop link thingy and hand Although I've driven plenty of tractors in my time I have never had to think about how to mount a 3 point before.. This took quite a few days to work out and I'm sure more hair loss through all the head scratching!! Having to mount a couple of brake calipers each side in the same area made things a bit more tricky!! One part welded up.. A slight trim of the chassis rails.. And tacked on. A close up to show the "cut-out" to clear the back of the trans. Grab a bit of scrap metal.. Chopped and chain drilled.. Tacked to another bit of angle and the holes drilled right through both bits. Some hack-saw action followed by the cold chisel. A die grinder saved me having to file the holes round. Cut the 2 bits of angle apart, turn em round, then weld them together again. Ta-daa, top linkage mounts. Last photo for this update, a tyre was thrown into position just to see how much the 2 point stuck out the back.. Looks good I think..
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2012 12:49:10 GMT
|
So after the fun and games getting the beast outside, and even more fun and games getting the beast back on the bench, I got on with finishing the bonnet.. Lot's of cutting, bending, hammering and welding in some rather strange shape patches!! And too much heat in the Workshack!! The hood looked like this.. Then slapped over with a quick coat of brown oxide primer to keep the rust at bay. With the bonnet done I thought I'd have a look at what lives underneath it, yep the engine.. To get a drive pulley and WH PTO parts on this tapered shaft I need to make an adapter thingy and a pulley to fit onto that.. Adapter thingy first, masking tape came in handy for getting the correct measurements. Lot's of measuring and scribbling later.. This is what it should look like when it's finished.. Only not see-through ;D Starting with this which was cut from a dead pillar drill leg.. Getting smaller.. A little trim off the other end.. And then I made the mistake of doing lathe work while feeling really rough and lacking in the needed concentration!! It looks good but I managed to cut a little too much off.. Not good for something that has bearing turning on it!! "bumhats" is the correct phrase me thinks..... Oh well, I can return to that at a later date.. Wanting to add a 3 point linkage to the back meant that the chassis would need some extra metal added out back, so a few parts got stripped off.. Then some more box section added each side.. Here it is awaiting a visit from the welder. On went the G-clamps for tack welding.. Off came everything including the trans.. And back on went the clamps for a serious seem welding session.
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2012 12:10:59 GMT
|
Hi Guy's and Gal's, another long over due update is here.. But first. Lol, it's not quite as big as it looks, as you will see shortly. I agree with it needing a big diesel engine, I can just see the flap on the exhaust flapping up and down while nice thick black diesel smoke is being belched out ;D I have wondered if it is possible to convert my "in bits" engine to run on diesel, but I'm not sure it can be done.. Ta Muchly Sir, more is on the way.. ;D I see what you mean about Pete and whipped cream.. It could also be that Pete had grown a funky shaped bright white goatie beard, but I think the white stuff is masking tape.. "I'm insane"!!!! Thank you for noticing ;D Thank you kind Sir's.. Lol, nice Mini... I was thinking something more along these lines ;D When I left you last time I was very happy to get to the rolling chassis stage of this build, but after all that engineering I thought I'd have a go at something a bit less taxing, stretching the bonnet.. I'd already had a play at the bonnet by clamping the back half of another bonnet on the back, but it didn't quite look long enough.. A dig though my spares pile produced a couple of bonnet extension thingys.. With the thingys added the front of the bonnet sat just right a little behind the front wheels Ready for the chop chop.. And the two over long half's tacked together.. Me thinks it looks good ;D And then Pete dropped in unexpectedly, so we decided to get the beast off the bench and out in the garden to be able to have the space to have a good look round for the first time during this build.. Errr... After years of seeing it on the bench it can as a shock to see the chassis looking so low and small in the garden Of course a few body panels had to go on and a few photo's taken ;D The line-up..
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 16:10:54 GMT
|
That's a very clean Metro, me likey ;D Being gold it reminds me of my third Metro a 1.3 that decided it had had enough of running on all four cylinders at ##mph down the A21!! Never did figure out why the one cylinder died
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 16:01:10 GMT
|
Congrats on the magazine feature, a very worthy car And I have to say the best looking Capri I've seen. Love the stance and attitude ;D
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 13:28:28 GMT
|
That's better... Coffee made and smoke rolled.. A quick question for those that roll their own here.. Can any taste any difference between Golden Virginia and Golden Virginia yellow?? I can't.. I didn't take many photos of the axles going on, was too busy getting on with it, but here's a few.. The first front axle going on. The easiest way to explain this is.. The inner and outer bearing blocks got bolted on to the axles.. The inner bearing block also had one of the mounting plates bolted on.. Bolt the outer bearing block to the outrigger, making sure the bearing is properly adjusted... And where ever the the inner bearing block sits is where extra metal is needed to hold them up.. A bit like this. One side tack welded together.. And the other side.. Now to get the wheel hubs in the right place on the axles, a straight bit of box came in handy for lining the hubs up with the rear hubs... And a few tack welds later the hubs were in the right places. With all the new steel tacked welded on, off came the outriggers and axles for a seam welding session.. At this point my Arc welder decided it didn't want to turn on A bit of prodding with the test meter showed it was the switch at fault.. But with some very careful cracking open, cleaning of contacts and reassembly the Arc was soon sparking once more The chassis seam welded on open box ends capped off.. The wheel hubs also got seam welded to the axles, and then given a coat of paint by Pete. A bit of reassembly later and look!!! the wheel don't reach the ground!! Which can only mean I've reached the big milestone on this project!! Yep, after almost two years of building I had a rolling chassis ;D The "Batman action shot angle".. And me being very happy about finally getting to this point ;D
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 12:24:08 GMT
|
Ta muchly Smiler Thanks Waveman, the clever engineering is mostly just careful measuring and guess work. This is the first time I have attempted a to build something this complex.. The theory says it should all work as it should do, but only the first test drive will tell if the plan has worked. Yep that's what it's called, thanks Jonw. I was sooo knackered when I made my last post that most of the ol brain cells had gone to sleep.. That's why it ended up as only a short post! Thanks Tom. I'm not sure about "genius" but thanks anyway dude.. This beast should be quite good at a tractor pull, it will never be short of traction ;D Thanks for all the great comments guy's, it's cool to know you like what we do So where was I?? Ah yes, front and middle axles. Having turned up some axles, somethingy to bolt the wheels on would be handy, so.. Some more recycled metal got the angle grinder treatment. Chop chop with the corners.. Some of these steel plates had threaded holes through them.. No problem.. Wind in some threaded rod, weld them solid, and put on the lathe.. Almost finished here, just need to bore the center out a bit.. One of the steel plates had a big hold through it.. Once again the lathe to the rescue, a bit of bar turned down to a fraction over sized for the hole. Here it is in a plastic bag chilling in the freezer along with lot's of bbq stuff.. A few hours later and out came the blow torches to to make the plate expand a bit.. Yep, you've guessed the next bit right.. Dig the bar out the freezer and beat it into the hole in the plate.. Ta-daa the hole has gone ;D With the unneeded bar trimmed off, on the lathe it went.. If you look hard you can just about see the bit of "filler" bar at the top. Being shrunk (and beaten) fit it will never come out ;D Best drill some wheel bolt holes in these hubs them.. A hub clamped onto a wheel and a big drill bit to mark out where the holes need to go. Four hubs marked.. And some thread cutting... All the bits needed to get the front and middle wheels hung.. Were get to the wheel hanging in a mo, I need a coffee
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 11:27:10 GMT
|
I've heard of this before a few times, how did you get it registered?
Not quite chrome, more like chrome paint. The wheels have lost the shine and of course a lot of the chrome paint over the years..
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2011 22:56:44 GMT
|
Cheers dude, yeah it is quite a nice engine, it should have loads of torque as it's a whooping 769cc ;D Lol, another compliment ;D I'm sure people who know me agree. Right folks, were still playing catch-up with this build but are certainly getting closer to the future, winning the posting battle so to speak ;D In this episode we will be having a look at the front and middle axles. But before that somethingys were needed for the inner side of the axles with bearing blocks to bolt onto.. Starting with four bit of plate which were clamped the welded together. Then onto the lathe they go for a pilot hole to be drilled. The hole is getting bigger. And finished.. A bit of careful cutting apart later and Ta-daa four of the mounting plates, they bolt up to the bearing blocks just fine. It's axle time ;D A bit of measuring.. Plenty of scribbling.. Which was turned into a 1-1 scale drawing, seen here sitting roughly where one of the axles will go. That's enough drawing, so chop chop on the old power hacksaw thingy. The lathe work was going quite well.... Until I suddenly had a nasty thought that I had over looked something while doing the measuring I had forgot to measure Wheel Horse wheel hubs I had hoped to use!! This shows the problem.. For my axle plan to work the wheel hubs had to sit in the rims but below the bottom of the bearing blocks.. As you can see from the photo the hub in the middle of the wheel does not sit below the bearing block A bit of a stupid mistake to make really, luckily with some really careful measuring (this time) I worked out a way around it.. Were get to that in a bit.. One of the almost finished axles next to a couple of "axle blanks"? With four axles machined it meant I had another 4 key ways to cut!! But this time I had a plan that would hopefully make the cutting a lot faster.. A bit of Ebay shopping later and I had one of these I do know what it's called.. Just can't remember at the mo!! A couple of strips of steel welded together.. Which slide into the lathe like this.. Throw a bit of angle with a couple of holes drilled at just the right places Clamp it on the lathe chuck making sure it's on square. A bit of drilling and thread tapping later.. And I had something almost ready for clamping an axle to.. Some trimming and grove cutting.. And with the aid of a pair of exhaust clamps the axle could be bolted on the lathe for key way cutting ;D Have an action shot Ta-daa the end result.. Key way cutting time now down from 30 hrs each to 5 mins ;D
|
|
My YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBlokeQuote - D'you know, it's people like you, doing totally brilliant and pointless stuff like this that gives me a little hope for humanity
|
|
|