|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 19:56:45 GMT
|
Hi! I have a problem I need to solve... The PO of my Merc has flooded everything with tar. The sills, wheel arches, boot, etc. Now - how do I get that stuff off? I want to replace it with some propper conservants like PX-11, Fluid Film and wax. Getting the stuff out of accesable areas is messy, but doable. Heat with political speech gun and wash of with brake cleaner. But how would I get the stuff out of the sills??? I doubt I can get enough heat/hot air into them, though I guess rinsing out with brake cleaner/dereaser with a probe should be possible... But - any other ideas? Apart from cutting them open... ;D Thanks!  Jan |
| |
|
|
|
|
will
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,023
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 21:00:00 GMT
|
|
Leave it in there I reckon. If the sills need repair then access will be less of a problem ;D
|
| |
|
|
drew82
Part of things
Posts: 58
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 21:05:20 GMT
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 22:24:28 GMT
|
|
white sprit petrol or brake cleaner should touch it. but if sills are solid i'd not worry about it. tar is better than paper and cans we found in our merc
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 23:54:04 GMT
|
Yes and no... I fear it will age and crack and peel off and the other stuff might not get to where it's suposed to be and protect the metal properly...  Or am I too afraid? Hmm - so there are products for the purpose of disolving tar which can be obtained in large canisters ;D That'S good to know... Thanks! Cheers, Jan |
| |
|
|
Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 10:45:37 GMT
|
|
or fill with used engine oil, this will seep into any cracks that form. i'd be worried unless you use something that will flash off you'll never get the new stuff to bond.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 11:43:48 GMT
|
|
I plan on using PX-11 (NATO petroleum jell & 10% bees wax) or Fluid Film - the latter is said to be able to soften bitumen. But I'm almost sure it won't help much with a thick coat of tar in the sills... Engine oil.... I'm no environmentalist - but no...
Thing is - I don't want sills filled with tar ;D
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 13:08:44 GMT
|
|
Are you sure it's tar and not a proper rustproofer like Ziebart ? I had an XJ6 that was Ziebarted and whilst looked horrible it did it's job and stopped the rot.
Paul H
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 13:24:31 GMT
|
|
I'd just squirt cavity wax in there once a year and not worry, it'd be a right messy job even if a liquid could dissolve it all without wiping and rags etc.
|
| |
'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 17:10:17 GMT
|
Are you sure it's tar and not a proper rustproofer like Ziebart ? I had an XJ6 that was Ziebarted and whilst looked horrible it did it's job and stopped the rot. Paul H Yes, I'm sure it's tar Wax wont help... It'll just settle on top of the tar and that's it. If I don't remove it, I'd rather fill the sillswith something that's active, like the PX-11 I mentioned earlyer. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 10:34:57 GMT
|
|
A decent wax moves, creeps, will seal cracks as they form esp with warmth.
|
| |
'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 13:27:02 GMT
|
|
I can only speak out of experience with 80's Mercedeses. On those the wax certainly does not stay active. It stays soft, yes. But not active. Grease/PX-11 creeps into every ever so little crack and keeps on doing so. And if there's a thick layer of tar in, I realy don't think wax has any chance of inhibiting rust...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 14:37:59 GMT
|
And if there's a thick layer of tar in, I realy don't think wax has any chance of inhibiting rust... Rust needs water/ damp and air to be created. If the tar is a solid mass then they will be excluded so no rust will form. If any voids then your mixure will penetrate. Paul H |
| |
|
|
Or am I too afraid? 