Making Brake Pipes

[andyborris]

Need some advice on making brake pipes from a reel of Kunifer pipe please.

www.rallydesign.co.uk/popup_image.php?pID=13935

While I can form the ends (and even get them leak proof!), I can't seem to get the pipes straight! Because the pipe is curved into a reel, I always end up with a “slight wave” to the pipe.

Any suggestions on how to get a wavy pipe straight?

Have a Lola by way of thanks

Andy

[jrevillug]

I've heard suggestions of rolling it between two (flat!) planks of wood (put it lengthways between the two and move one across the other).

That said, I've not tried this method; slight wobbles don't really bother me, as long as they fit - but I can see that you might want to make them immaculate if you're working on something special.

The other option is to buy steel pipe - it is available as straight lengths - but of course it will rust eventually.

[CIH]

You almost never get them as tidy as factory lines. So long as they're properly functional I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[oxb1l]

I've got a piece of string for measuring them and after I have the required length I use a small hand held bender (simple one )
After I have my bends in the required positions I straighten out any areas that need to be spot on by hand

Really it's a case of taking your time (your using the right stuff for a good finish)

[scruff]

Planks work OK but will never be 100% straight.

[welshpug]

I can get copper pretty damn close to the originals, not tried copper-nickel as my local motorcactor never has it on the shelf.

I tend to remove the originals in as close to the original shape as possible, then add a brake fitting to one end and bend the new pipe alongside the original, then cut to length and add the last fitting.

all done by hand

[slammage]

Are there any other tools or materials to use when making a complete new brake line set up? thought i would post in here rather than make a new thread, sorry about the novice question just bugging me

[welshpug]

just a flaring kit, brake pipe spanners, and mole grips.


oh and a bleed kit of some kind and a beautiful assistant.

[slammage]

and i can use my unions and previous fittings on the original set up i guess? cheers

[andyborris]

I'd get new fittings in Brass, then everything is anti-rust.

[ianboyd]

Mar 20, 2012 13:32:24 GMT welshpug said:

just a flaring kit, brake pipe spanners, and mole grips.


oh and a bleed kit of some kind and a beautiful assistant.

That can't be right, my assistant is certainly not beautiful, and it still works! ;D

[jrevillug]

Mar 20, 2012 13:44:42 GMT slammage said:

and I can use my unions and previous fittings on the original set up I guess? cheers

Assuming that they are in good condition and not horribly rusty (they may well be if you're having to replace the pipe itself), then yes.

[ianboyd]

Mar 20, 2012 13:44:42 GMT slammage said:

and I can use my unions and previous fittings on the original set up I guess? cheers

unions are cheaper than a cheaper thing, best to fit new

[slammage]

will get some new ones in that case cheers guys

[scruff]

Little blob of copperslip on the threads helps keep everything sweet forever.
Just keep it away from the mating surfaces.

[Bob the Fish]

I got a piece of spare steel, it's about 100mm wide and 8mm thick, a couple of feet long (but o'course anything vaguely similar would do). Roll the pipe on the bench with that. Can be hard work, and it has to be fairly straight first or it just sits there... sort of work one end first, so there's less wobbly pipe to fight at one time, kind of thing.