Audi/VAG TDi fuel pump problem.

[Harold Ramp Bumface Fandango]

1994 Audi 80 1.9TD (80BHP I think): discovered today it's not starting due to what I can only describe as a rotor arm on the plunger on the top of the diesel pump, underneath the top cover of said pump. We noticed this rotor arm affair has what looks like brushes which track across a route on the top of the pump. These brushes look like the things fitted to the bottom if a Scalextric car if anyone's familiar with these pumps.

Basically we need to remove the rotor arm to replace or repair the bushes but can't work out how to get it off. Does anyone know how to remove this arm please as we can't figure out how to?
Thanks in advance!

*Ps, it's a Bosch pump.

[Harold Ramp Bumface Fandango]

[MiniDan]

First off, I have no idea about these pumps, so this might be a daft question.

Are they ment to be removed? I know some pumps have special fittings on to stop them being removed so you can't balls it up.

[edit]Tamper proof! That's what I ment.

[chairchild]

easiest fix: whip out the naff VP37 pump you've got there, and slap in a nice purely mechanical VE pump

bottom half is pretty much 100% identical, just the top section is changed to control movement of the control collar. I've never known of anyone to attempt a repair of the part you're describing, as replacing either the whole pump, or just the top section (the unbolted bit in the picture) is usually far far easier

[Harold Ramp Bumface Fandango]

Cheers chaps. I removed the top part because the top two seals were leaking. The fella at the diesel place who supplied the seals said to be careful removing the bottom one as the 'plunger' goes through that.
We twigged why it wouldn't re-start (plunger not lined up properly) but then noticed the problem with the bushes.
This may very well explain previous problems with the car where it would die then not re-start until it felt like which was anywhere between ten minutes and 1.5 hours! I would now think it was the bushes playing up.

I'd rather repair it if possible, it seems madness to bin the pump for the sake of a small part that should be easy to change.
That said if the VE pump top part will just bolt straight on that makes the most sense. Any idea where I'm likely to find a second hand one and what (if anything) else they were fitted to?
Many thanks for the input, much appreciated.

[Harold Ramp Bumface Fandango]

*Also the immobilisor is fitted to the top half of the pump, if I change to a VE one is this likely to cause me problems? Cheers.

[gib]

BTDT you cant repair them its vario resistor board . Best bet is to try merlin diesel i replaced the top on my a6 2.5tdi about £250 3 years ago. Did you mark the pump lid before removal? If not you will sturggle to get it set properly (remember its located in 2 dimensions). Best bet will be to get a replacement 2nd hand unit.

Theres no coding on a 94 pump.

If you do replace the lid when starting make sure you can stop the engine as it can run with out the govner if replacd incorrectly like dieseling ( which is very scarry) try audifans and search under my name as i did a rebuld years ago wwith a write up.

[chairchild]

Go to any scrapyard, and pull the top off any vw diesel engine that looks the same. The timing solenoid is also attached by 2 wires, but if yours still works ok, just cut the wires, and crimp them back together to the new top section.

Depending on the scrappies, you could get away with as little as a tenner for this part. Fuelling timing will NOT be affected by removing the top section, only the fuelling governing.

When replacing the top, it can move backwards and forwards (along the shaft direction). Have the top as far away from the end with the injection lines as possible when starting it, as this will be at the lowest fuelling point.

If it won't start, try holding the throttle down a bit. If it now starts, but dies when you release the throttle, you need to move the top towards the injection lines a VERY small amount at a time,until the desired idle rpm is achieved.

Moving it a bit further, will give you more fuel overall, and is a very crude method of tuning for a tad more power



As for fitting the VE top - it's only something I've theorised, as I've never had a VP37 pump to rip to pieces and physically try it


#EDIT#

Had abit of extra googling, and the VP37 pumps don't have the necessary supports to hold the main pivot mechanism for fuelling control.... shame really

[Harold Ramp Bumface Fandango]

Many thanks folks, much appreciated. There's a very good VAG specialist breakers the other side of town, I'll get down there and see if he has one in stock.
Thanks once again.