New here and need some advice or opinions (MOT)

[fiw666]

Hi guys I'm pretty new to the forum and forum-ing if that's a word.

Ive recently moved to a new city and don't know anybody yet so I thought here would be the best place to get advice.
I had my car MOT'd on the first and it failed (no surprise) took it away and did the repairs my self all bar steering gators.
when I took it back for retest I explaind I hadn't done the gators and the guy at the garage basicly told me he wouldn't do the work and therefor wouldn't do the retest.
so I took the car to another garage and explained to them it should need only the gators and it will pass, he seemed happy to do the work but after a few hours he rang me with a hugeeee list of fails that where not on the original fail sheet? and now I don't know where to go from here.
Any advice would be awesome
thanks
Phill

[composimmonite]

Might be helpful if you listed what the second MOT tester found that the original missed and also any advisories given by first and second testers. It could be a case of first tester lax or second pernickety. "At the end of the day" you haven't got an MOT pass so I'd be more worried about what is needed to obtain it rather than why first missed aspects second found. My (more than ample) gut feeling is first was too lax but it equally could be second is generating work. This is where, if you gave us more info, we could see if things seem unfair. For example if second said something like "brake pads low" then that might be they are passable but his wording could be it gives you the impression they are a fail.
If in doubt contact VOSA but it could create a potential poop storm for the testers - and you still won't have a valid MOT !

Paul h

[fiw666]

ok the first mot fail was:
rear position lamp (was a loose wire)(sorted)
Ns and Os rack gator
offside track rod end insecure(split pin was missing)(sorted)
Exhaust leak from manifold (sorted)
Ns and Os brake pads (sorted)

Advisory was oil leak.
when I told the first garage I hadn't gotten round to doing the gaitors but id bought them and they where in the boot he told me it would be 2 weeks until it would be done??? he seemed like he realy didn't want to do it.

then second place

NS head lamp to the left
OS head lamp too high
steering rack gators
lock tabs for caliper bolts
brake actuating linkage mounting area coroded
inner wheel arch has inappropriate repair
coil springs not positioned correctly
NS and OS indicators insecure
NS and OSnrear suspension component mounting excessively corroded
Centre exhaust system not adequitly supported

he quoted me £500 labour and said it would be 4 1/2 hours work and then parts on top

[fiw666]

my main problem is where iv moved to its parked on the road, all my gear to do the work myself is 200 miles away and obviously I cant drive the car back there, I cant leave it on the road and I'm not paying 500 labour so I feel like I'm pretty screwed atm

[composimmonite]

IMO

Headlights are simple adjustment
Steering rack gators you already knew about
Caliper lock tabs - some cars don't have them so it depends if they were fitted originally. Also AFAIK not a fail point but depends on testers opinion.
Brake actuating linkage mounting area corroded - what is this ? Is it handbrake mounting ? Is it a car with servo on opposite side to driver with linkage going across the car ?
Inner wheel arch has inappropriate repair - is this filler, pop riveted patch or tack welded as continuous weld proper MOT repair.
Coil springs not positioned correctly - jack car up to take weight off springs and turn them around until seated properly.
NS and OS indicators insecure - you'd need to expand on this. Front or rear indicators, why loose etc.
NS and OS rear suspension component mounting excessively corroded - fair enough but check yourself to confirm
Centre exhaust system not adequitly supported - fit bracket / hanger.

What car is this ?
I can't see where there is £500 labour to correct the above. For 4.5 hours work it means he's charging almost main agent rate !

Surely it's cheaper to hire or buy a ball joint splitter and spanners needed to change the gators yourself than pay somebody else ?

Paul h

[fred]

Having read all of that - I'm am with Compo
MOT testers depending on age and experience will always point out different stuff,
the older wiser one 'usually' will just tell you non urgent things will need sorting
only the important stuff will he fail, in my experience, £500 labour is taking the urine
I would sort the gaitors and the other little bits and take it somewhere else
best of luck by the way

[bavarianretro]

Surely all you need to do is get the gaiters done and take it back to the first place for a retest?

[Deleted]

Sounds like you are being taking for a ride, 4.5 hours work for £500 is expensive even for a main dealer pricing.
Unfortunately the MOT test is not a strict pass or fail and relies largely on the testers opinion (or what he thinks he can get away with to create work for his garage) which can explain the extra fails, I once had a tester try to fail for the rear seat belt mounting points being corroded on a car that didn't have rear seat belts.
Whereabouts are you or the car, there are plenty of helpful people on this forum who may be able to help or know someone who will and what car is it?

[fiw666]

thanks for all your replies. iv moved to Cardiff and the car is a mk3 capri.
I can do the work myself but iv got nowhere suitable to do it as the car is parked on a main road. and as it now has no mot I cant realy drive it anywhere (or can I).
thanks again

[bavarianretro]

Have you moved away from the area where the first MoT was done? At the end of the day, all it needs is steering rack gaiters to get MoT'd.

That shouldn't cost much at any small garage.

[Deleted]

Did the second garage officially carry out an MOT and enter it on the system? If they did it may affect subsequent tests as the fails are recorded.

[Deleted]

Aug 10, 2013 17:00:50 GMT @chip said:

Did the second garage officially carry out an MOT and enter it on the system? If they did it may affect subsequent tests as the fails are recorded.

It won't make any difference if it is retested elsewhere as the tester or computer will not know about the fails, the MOT system at a garage is not linked to other stations it only goes direct to the VOSA database.

Sorry can't help you as I'm down south. Have am ask around with other old car owners as there will likely be a classic friendly garage in that area.
Capri's don't have a 'brake actuating linkage' as they are hydraulic systems!

[Deleted]

It won't make any difference if it is retested elsewhere as the tester or computer will not know about the fails, the MOT system at a garage is not linked to other stations it only goes direct to the VOSA database.

Oh, I thought that the dates of previous tests and fails were visible to the tester. Sorry for the duff gen, learn something every day!

[dave21478]

with no MOT, you are allowed to drive to and from a garage where you have an appointment for repairs to be done, and then to and from the mot testing centre.

If you are really that stuck, find a wee garage that can do the gaitors, book it in, drive it there, drive it to the old garage, get the re-test done, then carry on as normal.

Thing is....with the second tester failing it fr corrosion, you need to be looking into this yourself. The first guy never failed it, but if it is actually there, then its likely to become an issue in the future, so best get it seen to sooner rather than later.

[ax16vts]

the easiest way to get a pass with the gaiters is to buy a pair, and cut them down the length with a stanley knife. Fit them, and then superglue them back up where you cut them. These will not last long, but certainly long enough to get them retested at the first garage giving you a valid certificate.

[Deleted]

Aug 11, 2013 16:36:39 GMT ax16vts said:

the easiest way to get a pass with the gaiters is to buy a pair, and cut them down the length with a stanley knife. Fit them, and then superglue them back up where you cut them. These will not last long, but certainly long enough to get them retested at the first garage giving you a valid certificate.

You can buy universal gaiters that are already split and come with glue.

[ax16vts]

you can but they are more expensive than a standard one and you can buy a pack of 3 tubes of superglue from the pound shop - if you're a tightwad like me then it makes all the difference!

I will say though that the universal ones would last longer as they have a tongue and groove type arrangement for glueing them and you would therefore achieve a better join, but i would say that if it was a short term fix then the cheaper the better.