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Mar 25, 2017 21:30:53 GMT
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ever since that last repair session, I had a rattle in idle and low revs... Sounded like exhaust. adjusted the exhaust countles times, replaced all rubbers and hangers and what not - still rattling. well - it was the auxilliary water pump that was hitting the firewall  It was only supported by the hoses (it's not original, but taken from a modern aux heater). And since it was resting against the firewall. I had replced the pump, but I didn't put the rubber that was wrapped around it back on. And - that was my rattling. Fixed:  Also fixed:  Ooops. 993.000km as of today. Cheers, Jan |
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  ^that's basically the only way to pull the rear drive flange on a W124/201/129/140 chassis. without stressing any other components, that is. It's missing the tool itself, I got only the counter plate - which would be the hardest part to fabricate. All it need is a beefy spindle, another plate, 6 pins and a piece that fits the rear of the flange. If you know good people, things work out. We took a lot of measurements, the good ol' eye-balling, talking and stuff. And then chips were made (not by me, my lathe is way too small). And then the tool was finally done. I present to you the "Holy Temple of the drive Flange":  And after a test-run (& prayer )...  Success!!  Though it didn't pull the flange but rather destroyed the bearing. Which doesn't matter, since it's the bearing that needs replacing. The bearing races are so hard, you can just grind them down and split them with a chisel or punch. So not a problem. The important part is to have removed the flange without destroying it. Those drive flanges can be really, really fücking tight. In the past we had to cut them apart to remove the big C-clip that holds the bearing. And that's the whole point; the flange is pressed into the bearing. The bearing is held with a C-clip in the hub. To get to the C-clip, you need to pull the flange. And that's the problem. Well, not anymore. This was no on my car, but it was a wagon. Wagons have thicker bearings & drive flanges, they are the toughest to pull. The tool worked well, all good. From now on, this will be a job that can be done in-situ. Very nice! Cheers, Jan |
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That's a monster bit of kit for a flange!
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That's also a monster of a flange! Without the horse shoe shaped plate to go under the flange, there's no way to extract the flange. It's not really possible to put the hub assembly under a hydraulic press, due to it's shape. The back plate get's damaged - and in the worst case the hub just bends and nothing else happens... I had no idea if this tool would work, since the forces involved are so incredibly high. But - it worked. Though I may add to bronze shims under the big brass nut to minimise friction on the big steel plate. Anyway, back to the Taxi. Today I finally investigated the harsh shifts of the transmission... Turns out, "out of the box" the diaphragm I replaced last year cranked the line pressure to a straight 4 bar. My trans needs 3.3 bar. At 3.3 the trans started to slip at high revs with full throttle. So I turned it to 3.5 bar. Which is a good compromise between smooth shifts and no slip. Shifts are firm, but nowhere near as banging hard as before.  High load slipping seems to be a common problem with rebuilt transmissions. All rebuilt trannys we installed at work (from various suppliers) had this issue. Either have smooth low-load shifts and slipping under high load/full revs, or have firm low-load shifts and no slipping at full load... I don't know why - maybe I should rebuilt one myself Anyway, it works a lot better now. And to be perfectly honest; I don't like automatics that shift so smooth that you can't feel a shift. Spooks me the fück out Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 15, 2017 18:18:34 GMT
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So, since the weather seems to slowly shift towards the warmer period of year, I tackled the sunroof. Again. 2 years ago I swapped out the sliding-lift bracket-things ('Hubwinkel' in german). I replaced them with used ones, which apparently were beyond theyr service life. But I had the opportunity to grab a pair of known good 2nd hand ones. Out with the old...  On closer inspection, they were bent and missing a couple of felt strips and rollers. D'oh. The key to make the sunroof work well is assembly. The lid needs to be installed with a bit of pre-tension. For which special special-tool n°0815 is required. Basically a cut-down C-clamp vise-grip. Nothing fancy.  There is no specific pre-load, just whatever works. May require a few different settings. The lid needs to slide past the seal easily. And then of course the wind deflector can be adjusted, the hight of the guide rail and last but not least the motor end-position. All of which I had to do to get a good working sunroof, with the lid in a even end-position and no wind-noises... Took me a good couple of hours. And it's still not perfect. But acceptable & working OK. Without specific manual and instructions - do NOT try to adjust anything - you'll make it worse! Camera battery was flat, so I didn't do a full write-up. It's a barstuart of a sunroof that thing. Cheers, Jan |
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Current:
80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
90 300TE 4Matic
90 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
01 Saab 9-5 Wagon
Former:
1991 300E 4Matic; 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan; 1976 450SL; 1977 350SLC; 1987 VW Cabriolet; 1987 VW Golf GL; 1988 Ford Ranger; 1980 VW Rabbit; 1980 Dodge Ramcharger Snow Commander; 1975 Simca; 1967 VW Beetle; 1959 Bultaco; 1957 VW Beetle; Honda CX500; Kawasaki 250; Honda CB50; Lambretta; Vespa
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Apr 28, 2017 17:22:30 GMT
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998.000km...
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Apr 28, 2017 17:38:26 GMT
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....and there was me thinking that 299,287 miles (478,859 km) was quite alot.....
Not long now!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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How are you going to rig it so that streamers and confetti and coloured smoke explode from under the bonnet when you roll over?  |
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THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
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I would bet a lot of money that there isn't a car in production today that will see that mileage. These old MB diesels are just bomb proof.
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May 14, 2017 19:13:59 GMT
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Not quite 2 weeks... In fact; today was the day. I reset the counter on the Taxi, finally a millionaire |
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May 14, 2017 19:49:55 GMT
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Beautiful
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May 14, 2017 20:11:34 GMT
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Free beer from the factory ??
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1994 Mercedes e220 petrol estate, daily driver.
1998 Peugeot 406 Coupe 3.0 v6, shopping car.
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108 
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May 14, 2017 20:17:28 GMT
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trumpets from the Mercedes offices?
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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May 14, 2017 21:28:51 GMT
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You must be so proud...
Congratulations
Dan
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WOOHOO!!!!!!! Yeehar! Well done dude!
Now to put it up for sale as a zero mile factory original car and become an actual millionaire!
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Superb work and persistence:-)
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rr69h
Part of things
Posts: 313
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Well done and very well deserved! As robust and long-lasting as these cars are: it couldn't have done it without your dedication, hard work and of course your right foot.  You should be proud! Felix |
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"Racing drivers never carry cash"
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It was only supported by the hoses (it's not original, but taken from a modern aux heater). And since it was resting against the firewall. I had replced the pump, but I didn't put the rubber that was wrapped around it back on. And - that was my rattling. 
You should be proud!