1990 Mazda Miata MX5 - service

[MiataMark]

I bought a new top hose from MX5parts, just a standard one I'll wait until I refresh the whole system before changing to silicon. Like an idiot I forgot to change the quantity for the hose clamps so only got 1 and had to reuse one of the originals.

Old hose and new;



Forgot to take a picture of the new hose in place, emptied out the expansion tank and topped up with anti-freeze mix. After running up to temperature and going for the obligatory test drive this is what I get;



Hopefully success, trip to Sparkford tomorrow will be a good test.

Also had a quick look at the A/C no gas in it, so that can all come out.


Meanwhile I needed to change a dip beam headlight bulb on my Alfa 159, this is a year old Osram Nightbreaker which is a bit disappointing. I do wonder if they are genuine I bought them cheap on eBay. Access to the rear of the lights is pretty bad, I'd like to change the full-beam but just can't get enough access to release the clip holding the bulb in. Might need to buy some from Halfords and let them fit the bulbs, worth the few £ they charge for fitting.

Drivers side access,



Near side access, the rear of the full-beam is behind most of the pipes.

[MiataMark]

MOT time - and it failed

but not really on anything too serious

Drivers side headlight dim on main and not working on dip, probably a connection/earth issue. This was the side that got accidental steam cleaning when I had the cooling issue.

Rear drivers brake not effective, probably caliper stuck. Admittedly this was an advisory last year.

Also advisories for rear pads and rear disc. He wasn't that impressed with my battery held down by tie-wraps...

So I need a new rear caliper, thing is I was going to change to 1.8 discs, I've got the carrier but not the caliper and discs. Do I stick on a new/secondhand caliper or swap to 1.8 discs etc (I think I can use the 1.6 calipers but mounted upside down, or is that just the fronts)?

Not really what I wanted at the moment, I've got to sort out the horse trailer lights before it's sold, work on my shed and the Alfa is making funny noises (hopefully 'just' a wheel bearing).

Mark

[joeytalent]

May 12, 2016 11:38:31 GMT MiataMark said:

MOT time - and it failed

but really on anything too serious

Drivers side headlight dim on main and not working on dip, probably a connection/earth issue. this was the side that got accidental steam cleaning when I had the cooling issue.

Rear drivers brake not effective, probably caliper stuck. Admittedly this was an advisory last year.

Also advisories for rear pads and rear disc. He wasn't that impressed with my battery held down by tie-wraps...

So I need a new rear caliper, thing is I was going to change to 1.8 discs, I've got the carrier but not the caliper and discs. Do I stick on a new/secondhand caliper or swap to 1.8 discs etc (I think I can use the 1.6 calipers but mounted upside down, or is that just the fronts)?

Not really what I wanted at the moment, I've got to sort out the horse trailer lights before it's sold, work on my shed and the Alfa is making funny noises (hopefully 'just' a wheel bearing).

Mark

I have the 1.6 calipers on the 1.8 carriers and discs, no problem with that setup.

You can buy seal kits for the calipers from Bigg Red for pretty cheap, the calipers are quite easy to rebuild. If nothing is leaking, and the piston still moves freely, you might get away with cleaning up and regreasing the slider pins and adjusting the handbrake with the screw inside the caliper (under a 14mm bolt on the rear).

[MiataMark]

May 15, 2016 13:36:34 GMT joeytalent said:

You can buy seal kits for the calipers from Bigg Red for pretty cheap, the calipers are quite easy to rebuild. If nothing is leaking, and the piston still moves freely, you might get away with cleaning up and regreasing the slider pins and adjusting the handbrake with the screw inside the caliper (under a 14mm bolt on the rear).

Interesting, might look at the slider pins, not up to rebuilding the caliper (time constraints, I've rebuilt calipers before), then I could just get it through MOT and put 1.8 discs/pads latter.

Just to round off the weekend, can't get wheels off Alfa (locking nut spins round) and discovered rusty front subframe.

Mark

p.s. How do you back the pads off, presumably not by pushing them with a spreader? Just wondering how I see that the pistons are moving. Think I need to go and read the manual.

[wheelspinner]

There is a nut on the caliper undo it and there is an Allan bolt behind which backs off the piston.

[andyborris]

Here you go, all you need to know about MX5 NA rear brakes!

Mx5 handbrake adjust and pad change

And because I can't get the little linky thing to work, have it old school as well! www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17776

[andyborris]

And when I post the message, it starts working, typical, reminds me of some of the heaps I've owned!

[MiataMark]

Thanks for the help I'll have a look in more detail tomorrow night.

Bigg red looks an interesting site, like the idea of gold calipers.

Mark

[MiataMark]

New headlight bulb seems to have fixed the headlamp issues, and number plate lamp was a bad connection.

Drivers side brake caliper was seized on the sliders, to lift the caliper off the pads had to use a hammer! Cleaned up the pins and applied copper grease seems to be working. Will find out tomorrow as have booked a re-test.

Thanks for the tip joeytalent

It's not a permanent solution as I need new guide pins, discs, and pads but hopefully will get it through MOT with minimal expenditure. Then I can sort out the 1.8 carriers I've got and fit bigger discs etc.

No pictures as it was boring....

Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Mark

p.s. The Alfa is having some waxoyl chucked at the subframe on Saturday, not by me local Ala/Fiat specialist. Bad that a less than 10 year old car has 'chassis' rust issues.

[ajc91]

"He wasn't that impressed with my battery held down by tie-wraps..."

I thought that was the prescribed method? Sounds like your tester has no sense of humor.

[joeytalent]

Fingers crossed! The seals where the slider pins meet the carriers are usually the culprit - once you upgrade the brakes, it'll probably be worth renewing those seals at least.

Best of luck.

[MiataMark]

PASSED

Advisories - needs new rear brakes.

for the cost of an H4 bulb and the use of a lump hammer

Thanks to the advice from here, otherwise I probably would have gone out and bought caliper, pads, discs etc.

Now I can think about building up the 1.8 brakes I've got.

Mark

[joeytalent]

Congrats! Now enjoy the last week of summer before the rainy season starts

[MiataMark]

Well summer seems to have been and gone!

Slight digression, I know it's modern, but noticed some rust on the front sub-frame of my Alfa took it to have it sorted and this is what's behind the under-tray ;







Garage will whizz it over with a wire wheel and then treat and paint, will need to keep an eye on it and the rear as well

[MiataMark]

So last night went to Camera Club and thought as it was nice I’d take the MX5, nice little trip up but when I came back it wouldn’t start. I’ve been having problems with the immobiliser but normally a wiggle here a kick there and some patience works but not last night
Called the rescue service (wife) who given the choice of coming in her Discovery with tow bar and tow rope or my Alfa with neither, yep you guessed came in the Alfa. Sent her back to get the Disco’ and then got her to tow me home. Scary, to be fair she wasn’t bad at towing but being pulled along that close was just scary. Not helped when she stopped and despite pumping away on the brake pedal I nudged the Disco’, my fault I was pressing the clutch
Got it home and we live on a bit of a hill and with a slight slope up over the pavement to the drive. I’m a puny 11st weakling with arms like pipe cleaners, I thought MX5’s were meant to be light! Ended up putting the tow rope on the rear tow hook and pulling it tug-of-war style onto the drive. At least now I know that both tow hooks work!

So I need to get rid of the immobiliser (you put a little PCB into a socket).

No pictures it was dark and I was preoccupied.

[ChasR]

Just read through this and it seems like you are having fun as well . It's certainly heading in the right direction .

[MiataMark]

Today I removed the immobiliser, it may very well have just been a loose connector but I wanted it gone anyway. Looking under the dash I couldn't see anything, but then saw where they had cut into the loom and followed it back to the black box.

So 2 wires cut, one spliced onto and an earth point.



The joints had been soldered so I needed to cut above the joint.



To save straining the connector I inserted a short wire between the cut ends, soldered and heat shrinked the joints. Except for the one I forgot to put the heatshrink on before I joined the cables and where they had spliced onto a wire.



The yellow wires are for the rear fog light that need to be tidied up and the switch replaced by a Mazda one I've got for the normal position.

And finally a blanking grommit (but no Wallace) where the socket was.




Turned the key and it started! (I did disconnect the battery while I worked, which also shows that the battery terminal doesn't fully tighten, another job for the future). Does leave the car a bit more vulnerable to theft but I have an idea for that.

Mark

[MiataMark]

I've put the Mazda on SORN, although I have been using it there are a few jobs that need doing and it'll save a bit of money.

So the jobs that need doing;

- fit the rear coil-overs I've got
- sort out the brakes, I've got a set of 1.8 carriers, front calipers to fit but they need refurbishing first
and I'll need new discs/pads and flexible hoses
- flush the cooling system through (new hoses?)
- remove A/C and charcoal filter
- fix under tray which is dragging down
- sort out battery box and few other electrical bits
- give it a service
- plus a few other odd things.

I want to have it back on the road for May, preferably April, we'll see!

[MiataMark]

Brake choices,

Currently it's on standard 1.6 brakes with Pagrid pads on the front, has done 2 track days with no problems. The last MOT it failed on seized rear caliper. Solved with application of big hammer, clean up of slider pin and copious amounts of grease (on the pin that is). The rear discs are shot and need to be replaced whatever I do.

I've got the below;



L-R, 1.8 front calipers, carriers and discs, 1.8 front discs and carriers, 1.8 rear discs and carriers.
(I really should measure everything to make sure though)

My thoughts are get the 1.8 front calipers and 1.6 rear calipers reconditioned (Bigg Red £100 a pair and they end up a nice gold colour), try and sort out a set of discs from above, stick them in an electrolysis bath. Either try and get Bigg Red to sort out the carriers or refurb them myself. Will need new slider pins etc. Add in a set of braided hoses, Hel (£100) or Goodridge (£76) or make my own with parts from CBS. Some EBC pads, or stick with Pagrid, and job done...

Then try and sell the spare 1.8 front carriers, old 1.6 front calipers to get some money back.

Thoughts?

[MiataMark]

Some progress, I've cleaned up the rear (1.8 carriers) and one of the front carriers;



Lower after a session with a wire wheel and upper before.

Also measured the discs, using both the approximate measure across the disc, (didn't have time to make a measuring device like sweetpea ) and a more @johnnybravo approach and measured the circumference. Of course given the state of the discs there must be a good mm or so of rust on the edge.

Front, 255mm ish diameter, 805mm circumference (805/3.14 = 256mm)
Rear, 250mm ish diameter, 790 mm circumference (790/3.14 = 251mm)

Mk1 1.8 discs are 255 front and 251 rear, so looks like I do actually have 1.8 brake parts. I think I need new rear discs as the ones I have have got a wear step in them. I'll need some new slider pins as well.

Any recommendation on how to protect them, some kurust( or similar) and brake paint?