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Apr 13, 2017 14:49:53 GMT
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Your design causes both sides to basically hit a wall. The other thing is it's so far downstream it will be less effective as well. You will probably find a simple H type merge will do what you want with no restriction potentially just behind the sump would probably work nicely.
Not intending to start fights or come across as a know it all just trying to offer friendly advice.
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Last Edit: Apr 13, 2017 14:50:56 GMT by wraith666
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Apr 13, 2017 15:17:24 GMT
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Your design causes both sides to basically hit a wall. The other thing is it's so far downstream it will be less effective as well. You will probably find a simple H type merge will do what you want with no restriction potentially just behind the sump would probably work nicely. Not intending to start fights or come across as a know it all just trying to offer friendly advice. No offense taken since what I am building here is skill and knowledge. People seem to assume I know what I am doing, what I am doing is making this up as I go as best I can. For the time being, I will leave this as is since I expect the time and money to change wont offer any measurable difference in the intended application. We do have these things sitting on the shelve for later if I ever revisit in need of more power. ![]()  |
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Apr 13, 2017 19:32:59 GMT
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My only complaint about your exhaust is that you've (rather foolishly) gone and put it under the car where it won't be seen. And I happen to think that's a shame 'cos it's lovely. Sometimes beauty should be allowed to win over functionality.
I'm interested in your injection thing too. So it's got the ECU built into it and you don't need to program maps into it? (Assuming I understood what I was reading.) I always wondered if that was possible. Really interested to see how that goes.
Keep it up!
James
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Apr 13, 2017 21:17:20 GMT
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There are a few of these stand alone FI systems around. A friend of mine has the FItech unit in his Ford 302 powered Rover P6 - I will have to ask him what he thinks of it.
By the way - Awesome work - I am counting down the days to it running under it's own steam.
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Apr 13, 2017 21:54:17 GMT
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My only complaint about your exhaust is that you've (rather foolishly) gone and put it under the car where it won't be seen. And I happen to think that's a shame 'cos it's lovely. Sometimes beauty should be allowed to win over functionality. I'm interested in your injection thing too. So it's got the ECU built into it and you don't need to program maps into it? (Assuming I understood what I was reading.) I always wondered if that was possible. Really interested to see how that goes. Keep it up! James There are currently two players in the "EFI that looks like a carburetor and tunes itself" market. Fitech has been out for two years and has only recently caught up with demand. Holley finally got its product on the market last fall. Both the Fitech and the Holley are standalone devices having both the fuel regulation and the computer residing in the throttle body. Both require high pressure fuel pumps and fuel return lines. Start up involves answering 4 (?) questions about the engine and then going for a drive. There is a small keypad on a cable that permanently resides inside the car. I chose to go with the Fitech because it had a lot of reviews from users. The vast majority of the reviews were positive. Being able to tame low vacuum cammed engines and lessen the stink of unburnt fuel are re-occuring themes. If I were a competitor, I would not be doing a throttle body intake. I would have gone sequential port injection. How well will it all work? As I keep saying, I am learning as I go and this will be another lesson. |
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Apr 13, 2017 21:57:44 GMT
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Apr 13, 2017 23:14:30 GMT
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Not quite the same deal. Arguably a better system performance wise since it is port injection, but it still requires a control module that needs to be installed somewhere. The other breakthrough with the Fitech and the Holley are the price-point. The Edelbrock is going to run over $2000 USD and the Fitech was $800 delivered. |
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The E Street 2 is a self mapping throttle body that can be tweaked with your smart phone - Summit sells the kit at around $1,700 USD. I have also been looking at the Fitech and will probably use it on my project (if that day ever comes!). My mate is running that set up on his 302 powered Rover P6, he went with the swirl pot from Fitech so it cost a little more than $1,000 USD. I am still waiting for his real world test results before I make my decision. I will also be interested to get your feedback when you get the Molvo up and running. More progress please - I read this all in one go and now I am chomping at the bit for the next installment.
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Apr 14, 2017 11:50:37 GMT
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The E Street 2 is a self mapping throttle body that can be tweaked with your smart phone - Summit sells the kit at around $1,700 USD. I have also been looking at the Fitech and will probably use it on my project (if that day ever comes!). My mate is running that set up on his 302 powered Rover P6, he went with the swirl pot from Fitech so it cost a little more than $1,000 USD. I am still waiting for his real world test results before I make my decision. I will also be interested to get your feedback when you get the Molvo up and running. More progress please - I read this all in one go and now I am chomping at the bit for the next installment. The swirlpot seems to be the one area of constant complaint with the Fitech crowd. The swirlpot was meant as a solution to provide high pressure fuel and not have to run a return to the fuel tank. In the end, Fitech now tells you to run the "Vent" line back to the fuel tank. Should be more updated this wee-end. The problem is that a lot of the stuff is details getting cleaned up and it does not make for spectacular viewing. Great sense of satisfavtion for me however, as it means things are drawing to a conclusion. |
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Don't underestimate the interest in this build - the sense of satisfaction is shared by the audience!
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smeden
Part of things
"Full throttle until you see God,then shift to second"
Posts: 356
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I love this build!
And I am looking forward to updates on the EFI! How do you control the timing? A lot of power and economy is found and lost there. As I understand it the system that you have only deals with fuel and not ignition?
I am looking at the 123 distributor for our vw bay camper. It holds 16 different ignition curves. That way you can chose the one that fits your engine and the modification's on it the best.
Have a nice Easter :-)
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Jaguar xj6 S1 swb manual
VW Bay Camper
Audi A3 1998 1.8
VW Beach Buggy (sold)
Ford Mondeo mrk I RS Celebration (written off)
Ford Escort Mrk II RS 2000 (rust in peace)
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Apr 15, 2017 14:56:09 GMT
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I love this build! And I am looking forward to updates on the EFI! How do you control the timing? A lot of power and economy is found and lost there. As I understand it the system that you have only deals with fuel and not ignition? I am looking at the 123 distributor for our vw bay camper. It holds 16 different ignition curves. That way you can chose the one that fits your engine and the modification's on it the best. Have a nice Easter :-) You are correct that the less expensive Fitech model does not include the timing control. That and the AC idle control were the two decision points between the $800 and $1000 model. If I were running anything beyond a stock 302 with aluminum heads, ( especially anything to do with boost or Nitrous) I would agree that there are gains to be had in micro-managing the spark. For a car that is going to be used for low rpm cruising, perhaps not so much. |
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Apr 16, 2017 11:29:48 GMT
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Where does all the time go? If you look at the fist and second picture of the tank install, there is probably 4 hours of what would be "Billable" hours and two days of calendat free time that has elapsed. Cant really see the difference, but the details are what eat up time.   Between the first and the second picture I have welded 76 spotwelds to attach a closing panel that will serve as the ounting surface for the tank. Said panel has three studs per side that are used to hold the tank in place. Once welded in place, the mounting surface was cleaned up, primed and undercoated. A mounting rubber gasket was procured and cut out to serve as a mount gasket between the tank and the tub. On the topside, it was determined that there was no place to run the fuel lines forward, so said path had to be created. I used a holesaw to cut a 1.5" hole in the Miata crossmember that I then sleeved with a piece of roll-bar tube from the scrap heap.   If all goes well there should be fuel lines passing through that hole by the end of today. Before I can cross off the line item that reads " Install fuel tank" I need to sort two items. Item #1 is to extend the metal filler neck . At first I thought I could use a rubber hose to connect the bottom fill stub to the fuel filler, but word on the street is that rubber hose should not be counted on to be full of fuel all the time. So, I get to do a bit of fabrication in the form of finding a tube to weld on to the tank filler stub and reshape it so that it passes through the big hole in the side. The extension piece should be at least to the top of the tank. How hard can that be. As yo can see, it involves taking a nip out of the frame and caping that off as a starting point.  The second and last bit is to close of the gap that you see behind the tank. Need to dream up a clever and elegant closing panel. What exactly that will entail eludes me at the moment 65 days left. |
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Apr 16, 2017 14:28:04 GMT
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as long as you keep motivated, we don't care how long it takes as the results are enlightening...thanks for sharing the process with us. your solutions to issues that spring up are great.....and always look very tidy.
that rear closing panel would benefit from some CAD work, Id bet.....
looks great....
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,367
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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Apr 16, 2017 21:22:04 GMT
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Great work. I was just going to ask about the filler neck, as I'd not be happy about relying on a hose either. Glad to see you've got it all in hand.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Apr 16, 2017 22:19:38 GMT
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Well, no fuel lines and no "Install Tank" task crossed off. But in my defense, I did get another job done that has been hangin over the project. "What to do with the chassis table" now that I don't need it anymore? It is heavy galvanized 1/4" 4" x 4" angle iron. Takes up rather a lot of space. Was out out of sight covered in snow till recently, but with winter gone, the missus was asking what I was going to do with the damn thing? So, while she was at work today, I did this: Cut it apart and used it as a border for the wife-units vegetable garden. I think she will like that.  I did try to get some work done on the Molvo, but I needed a bit of conduit from the electrical suppliers, and it seems that everyone is closedo n Easter Sunday. Go figure? I did get this done:  Progress is progress.... |
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Still working away at the project. Fuel system is pretty close to done. An example of what kills time and beer in my shop. Recall that I decided to run the plastic fuel lines through this hole along the frame rail and into the engine bay,  Well, can't just leave a big hole in the rear frame-rail, so noodled up this little blister from the discarded pieces of the cross-over pipe.  It covers the hole. Directs the fuel lines where I need them to go, and the front face is made of nylon so it serves dual purpose as a grommet. 49 days to go.  |
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Great work.
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14 Audi A3 Sportback - Easy driver
05 Audi TT MK1 3.2 DSG - Damn quick
73 Triumph 2000 - Needs work
03 Range Rover 4.4 V8 petrol. Had to get it out of my system.
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With only 44 days left before this has to move on its own, I have to keep moving myself. The steering got crossed off the list today. I managed to convert to a double D shaft in order to avoid any welding of the shaft in order to extend it to work with the 7" longer wheel base. I even managed to get it to clear the SS headers that I prefer to use. Bit of hammer work required to get here, but it is clear and it is complete.  With the engine and transmission back in and located where they will go, I also checked to make sure that my tunnel entrace clearancing did the job. Happy to report that it did!   Confirmed that the battery is going to work in the space I want it to be located. The yellow bit is where the fuel lines are going to pop-out of the frame-rail routing into the engine compartment.  At the back, I used the English wheel with a rubber band over the upper wheel to fab up some aluminum heat shields for the mufflers. Since the mufflers essentially run under the fuel tank, ( with decent separation) this seems like a good idea.  |
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 312
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I don't post on here that much, but really enjoy your updates  Keep them coming! |
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