|
|
Dec 28, 2016 23:33:23 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 28, 2016 23:34:02 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,333
|
|
Dec 29, 2016 22:31:40 GMT
|
Mmm carbon fibre door card so very sexy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2016 22:54:51 GMT
|
Mmm carbon fibre door card so very sexy. :-) I will be making new carbon door cards without the lump for the electric window motor. They were also slightly too small due to adjusting door sizes to better fit the openings.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A little progress. Glued in dash unit and trimmed top edge so the top fits properly. Once glue has set I will secure firewall and then glue dash top on for good. I made the mistake of using some 40 year old Plastic Padding. After 5 days it still hadn't hardened so I have had to scrape it off and start again. Oh well, live and learn :-) ![](http://i.imgur.com/7no9qgK.jpg)
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 2, 2017 18:26:22 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,755
Club RR Member Number: 39
|
|
|
Did you also use 40 year old hardener ? As the Polyresin, if still soft, would probably still harden if the catalyst was still active - Unlikely its the one part that does age degrade. If you still have the filler and some MEK try a mix and see if it reacts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Did you also use 40 year old hardener ? As the Polyresin, if still soft, would probably still harden if the catalyst was still active - Unlikely its the one part that does age degrade. If you still have the filler and some MEK try a mix and see if it reacts. Yes :-) I do have some MEK but it's not worth faffing about for half a small tin of filler.
|
|
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,985
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
|
just discovered this has topic of the day on Pistonheads main page, so well done there ![8-)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cool.png) Just skimmed through the thread on there as well, and watched a few of the youtube links for the chassis and vacuum bagging. Most impressive indeed ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) The only thing that still looks odd (to my mind at least) is the inboard rear coilover centre mount looking a tad flimsy ![:-/](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/undecided.png) But that's probably me over thinking things in a normal car and not sub 1000kg ![(rofl)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/rofl.png)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I needed some more carbon angle so decided to make a length out of carbon cloth offcuts. I could buy a 1200mm x 25mm by 25mm length from easycomposites for £58 plus shipping but by making it myself the cost is minimal. Admittedly, it won't be as good but it won't be visible so no problem.
The arty farty framing was caused by the phone cover around the lens coming loose :-)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
just discovered this has topic of the day on Pistonheads main page, so well done there Just skimmed through the thread on there as well, and watched a few of the youtube links for the chassis and vacuum bagging. Most impressive indeed The only thing that still looks odd (to my mind at least) is the inboard rear coilover centre mount looking a tad flimsy But that's probably me over thinking things in a normal car and not sub 1000kg Hi and thanks. I thought that also, but my suspension guru says that it is fine. Forces are parallel to the bracket so is plenty strong enough (apparently). However, if you look closely you can see the extra support I added. There is no point in having lightweight parts that fail :-) This part evolved over the design and construction period. Although storng enough it is a bit messy so is on the list for modification. I will be keeping an eye on this, and many other parts, once we start testing and shakedown runs. Steel nuts and bolts have been replaced with titanium ones since photo was taken :-)
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 6, 2017 15:22:23 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
v8
Part of things
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Posts: 302
|
|
|
I needed some more carbon angle so decided to make a length out of carbon cloth offcuts. I could buy a 1200mm x 25mm by 25mm length from easycomposites for £58 plus shipping but by making it myself the cost is minimal. Admittedly, it won't be as good but it won't be visible so no problem. The arty farty framing was caused by the phone cover around the lens coming loose :-) Have you tried any pre-preg ? I used to run a mechanical workshop for the medical physics department of a hospital and made an oven out of aluminium channel and some fibre board stuff that looked like asbestos, it scared the life out of any health and safety type than came into the workshop ! Had some very good results with basic equipment and it's far less messy to work with. For angle I used two bits of polished aluminium angle and some G clamps, lots of release agent was also used. You do need a freezer to store the carbon in though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yes, I have. I made these wing vents a while back. Bottom one just out of the mould, top one finished. As you say, much cleaner to work with. I plan to experiment with vacuum infusion, which, although still it uses resin, is a lot cleaner than standard vacuum bagging. There is also no rush you can take your time, like prepreg, and only mix resin when you are ready to infuse. I intend to make the window frames from prepreg but first have to build a suitable oven big enough to take them. I have the heaters, thermostat, plywood and insulation, just need the energy to get on with it :-)
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 6, 2017 19:21:29 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
|
|
|
Carbon angle came out OK. A bit rough and ready but that is fine as it gives a good key for the glue :-)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Glued the top section of the firewall in this afternoon. Using structural expoxy adhesive so this will, in a small way, add to the tortional stiffness, every little helps :-) The wooden resin mixing sticks were a perfect length with just enough springiness. This will get very hot so will be faced with Zircotec's Zircoflex III flexible heat shield material. Bloody expensive but bloody good.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 7, 2017 21:52:16 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
|
|
|
Needed some more angle so decided to make some using prepreg offcuts. This is how I do it, warts and all :-) Sorted out some angle of varying sizes and cut prepreg to suit. Prepreg was then pressed into the angle using a little heat to soften the carbon. I then covered them with peel ply (stops the breather cloth from sticking to it) Put these to one side whilst I made the vacuum bag. Placed a layer of breather cloth in the bag and laid out the angles on it. I then covered everything with another layer of breather cloth and attached the vacuum pipe. Placed in oven at 100 deg C for 8 hours. After 8 hours cooking in the oven (one in the workshop, not kitchen!) I removed angle and removed them from bag, cloth and peel ply. I then struggled to remove the carbon from the aluminium. I had used release agent but, obviously, not enough. Must do better. However, they came out OK and fit for purpose. If they had been shiny I would have had to sand them so there was a good key for glue :-) Total weight 42grams.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2017 22:44:05 GMT
|
I had a little 'issue' with the centre console. I cut a hole for the habdbrake lever to fit through and then realised (although it had crossed my mind during the console build) that, as the console can only be removed vertically, the lever is in the way! A longer slot would work but that would look like a bodge, which it would be. After a little thought the solution was to make the lever removable, or at least enough of it to allow the removal of the console. A few design iterations rsulted in a solution. Jusgt need to get it welded (my TIG skills are still minimal) and tidied up. A key mantra of mine is that any mods should make the new/replacement part lighter than the original, whenever possible. In this case a 115g, or 44%, reduction is pretty good :-) A small grub screw will be added to secure the handle to the base.
|
|
Last Edit: Jan 13, 2017 23:08:42 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2017 18:50:20 GMT
|
Thanks. I tried to keep it as simple as possible.
|
|
|
|
sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
|
|
Jan 14, 2017 19:51:41 GMT
|
I blame you nalesutol for giving me the guts to start fixing the fiberglass bodges on my TVR. If all goes well - Thank you, if not..... ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
|
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2017 21:55:29 GMT
|
I blame you nalesutol for giving me the guts to start fixing the fiberglass bodges on my TVR. If all goes well - Thank you, if not..... I get blamed for most things here, so water off a ducks back :-) Make sure of a good key and that the fibres are fully soaked in resin otherwise you will spend a lot of time filling in voids and pin holes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2017 23:13:30 GMT
|
Oh, when mixing resin do it slowly so you mix in as little air as possible. Use the minimum amount of hardener so you can get as long as possible before it goes off.
|
|
|
|