1981 Midas Coupe - Project Zippy.

[Phil H]

Daft question on the brake valve no.1 - you weren't using a UNF union going into a M10 hole, were you? They have a habit of seeming to fit but you can never tighten them up..

If it was a goosed thread then ignore me

[mrbounce]

Aug 24, 2016 2:00:59 GMT Phil H said:

Daft question on the brake valve no.1 - you weren't using a UNF union going into a M10 hole, were you? They have a habit of seeming to fit but you can never tighten them up..

If it was a goosed thread then ignore me

It was a goosed thread. Consider yourself ignored Phil!

[brickie501]

I always read your updates over on the PPC forum (RIP) - great to see you here!

[mrbounce]

Cheers brickie! That sort of thing means a lot as I never knew whether anyone paid much attention on there. 

Forums. There's only one thing that I can say about them - they're brilliant places. Not only did I get myself a brake valve from Ian, but a "tin can" clutch master cylinder turned up for sale at a very reasonable price as well. So after a short email conversation involving the wonders of Paypal, I had myself the part that I needed - well, mostly. I knew it would be a used item, so the best thing to do would be a recondition, despite it working well before removal. So I picked up a seal kit (not expensive - about £7) and when the MC arrived, I started on making it more presentable.



It had been on a fuel-injected Mini all its life (one of the later ones) but it was still 17 years old. It was also a little bit in need of a clean. So I removed the circlip, and took all the inner gubbins out before giving it a good dunk in the parts washer, followed by a proper clean up with various brushes and the Dremel. Once properly dry, I gave it a couple of coats of primer, followed by some satin black. I've replaced all the seals - now all that remains is for it to go back together.



Oh, and yes, it fits perfectly!!



As received. 17 years of grime yet to be removed...







Much cleaner after a dunk and a brush.







All the inner workings ready to be replaced







Primed...







...and painted.

[mrbounce]

This car is fighting me. A lot. It's almost like it wants to frustrate me at every given point just to irritate me a little more than before. Allow me to write the latest tale of woe.



I finished off the clutch master cylinder by popping in the spring and piston with its new seals and washer and sorted the circlip with a flourish. Everything seemed to be going according to plan. I popped the master cylinder into place and proceeded to connect up the brake master cylinder's pipes to the bulkhead valve. All looked great. "Excellent" I thought. "Time for the slave cylinder pipe and to connect the new pipe to the master cylinder". Except when I offered everything up, the new slave cylinder pipe was too large for the hole in the bulkhead bracket. I REALLY don't want to remove this bracket again as it'll mean taking out the pedalbox as well as I can barely see the blots with it on. And I don't have a 5/8" drill bit. . I shut the garage door and walked away for a bit. Again.



To cheer myself up I decided to do some Midas paperwork. It's not much, but picture below.



New MCs fit well together. ("Old" new MC has been sold already)







Hole needs to be this big.







However, it is this big. Guess what won't fit...







So I sent this off. Just because.

[brickie501]

Keep at it! My own 'time with the garage door shut' massively exceeds time actually spent working on stuff, so you are winning!

Aug 29, 2016 14:17:31 GMT mrbounce said:

To cheer myself up I decided to do some Midas paperwork. It's not much, but picture below.

...

So I sent this off. Just because.

Is that strictly accurate? You had plenty of space so why didn't you enter the proper colour ... VERY Orange!

[mrbounce]

Strictly speaking brickie I should have put "Bright Red Orange" as that's what it's called but that wouldn't fit... 

I have a new toy. It's such a simple idea, which is probably why I didn't think of it in the first place as I always seem to find a more complicated way of doing things. I was browsing the Machine Mart catalogue (always a bad idea as I tend to spend money - and it's on the way home from work if I make a minor detour...) and came across a stepped cone cutter. So, one purchase later and I have easily cut a bigger hole in the aforementioned bracket. It took about 8 seconds to do... As a result I popped on the clutch flexi-pipe and bent the kunifer pipe to shape. It's not perfect, but neither is my paint! As long as it doesn't leak it'll do for me!



New toy. Vicious little nibbly thing too.







I was able to do this. Me likey.

[Deleted]

Aug 14, 2016 21:17:22 GMT luckygti said:

And the tow bar? Yeah I thought the same. Most of all I couldn't believe how tiny it was!

Isn't that so you can hang it up in the garage?

[Deleted]

Wow, just read your other thread. Great work. I love these cars. It's looking amazing.

There's a really nice looking ... Errrrr... What's the other grp bodied mini similar to this and beginning with M... One of them anyway, on car and classic or eBay. I really wanted it, but it was more than I wanted to send this time round.

Great cars. Looking forward to updates.

[mrbounce]

Would that be a Mini Marcos then Tim? Face only a mother could love... 

So I am back from holiday after spending a lot of time in a car the other end of the size scale:





Glad I don't have to park that in England - it's a monster! Anyway, back to the smaller things in life. Today was a bit of a "tidying" kind of day in that I spent quite a lot of time underneath the shell with a paintbrush filling orange into all the little bits that the spray gun missed. I didn't bother taking any photos of this as a) it's brush-painted underside of bodywork and b) it's brush-painted so it isn't pretty. Most of it will be hidden anyway... Once I'd finished that I did a few other little bits, the first of which was making sure that the subframe could be bolted in nicely. Firstly I dug out the front mount brackets and spreader plates from the spares box. This was a simple "two bolts and nyloc nuts" job each side, complicated by the fact that the plates and brackets had so much paint on them that the bolts wouldn't push through. I sorted it with a old bolt and a hammer. At least I know they're not going to rust anytime soon...



I followed this up with a trial fit of the tower bolt mounts. I am using solid mounts as I like the idea of a) the better steering feedback and "point-and-squirtability" and b) never having to replace them again. As per usual on this bleeping car, there was a problem. When it was originally built, this Midas had a twin-bolt front subframe from a 60s Cooper S. It was converted to single bolt later, and when the holes were cut for the tower bolts, they presumably only had access to standard rubber mounts. These of course are flexible whereas the solid mounts are not, and the raised section on the mounts sat on top of the edge of the hole. There was just under 1/4" difference. My funky new cone cutters were not big enough, but because it's fibreglass, it's easy to re-shape. Out came my old friend the Dremel with a sanding band on it, and five minutes each side top and bottom saw the mounts fit snugly in place. Perfect. I also took the time to clean up and paint the large washers on the tower bolts as they looked a bit rusty and rubbish. I am unsure about painting the solid mounts as I don't know if the anodised finish is any good or not. Think I will leave them out for a few weeks and make a decision from there.



I have also made a captive nut plate for the wiper motor. I hated the way that mine was previously held on with big self-tapping screws - so I decided to do a bit better. Once the paint's dry I will drill the holes and fibreglass it into place.



Front mount plates in place.







Tower bolt hole midway through enlargement.







Mount now fits snugly in place.







Tower Bolt washers looking more presentable.







And captive nut plate for the wiper motor ready to go on the car.

[mrbounce]

It has been a frustrating time - mainly because my garage is in an utter state. I bought a couple of cabinets with plastic drawers at a boot sale last weekend and have been cleaning them and sorting out places for them to go. This meant moving lots of stuff, and so far I have only managed to move it from one side to another... I need to get rid of the fridge in the garage but of course that doesn't fit in a Bora's boot. So of course that means roping in friends - and only one has an estate car...

As such I have got very little done. I have however, revised the way that the battery clamp works on this car. Originally it had a hideous chunk of angle iron with a "T" piece that was screwed into the bulkhead buttress using self-tappers. I have instead used a proper battery clamp (cut down slightly) and have made an "L" shaped bracket which bolts through the bulkhead behind where the battery sits. My battery box had been modified (badly), presumably to allow fitment of a standard Mini battery, so I have used a dead one of these to line stuff up. I have used a couple of spacers between the bracket and bulkhead due to clearance issues but once I used these, it works very well, using the standard "tent-peg" arrangement. Hopefully there'll be a bigger and more exciting update soon.

Bracket spaced out (nuts used as spacers in this pic were just for size purposes).



And the clamp in all its glory. If I am being slightly OCD, it does make the battery sit oh-so-slightly diagonally, but hey - it works and nothing else is going there...

[DWDarkWheels]

Good to see you getting stuck in, and well done for going with a loud colour. Old kitcars offer a unique opportunity for ingenuity and quality bodgery. Sometimes you just have to write off unsuitable bits as 'development costs'.

Much admiration for your other half BTW.

[mrbounce]

Big update time!



I decided that I was going to pop the steering column in, and if I was going to do that it was probably a good idea to pop the clevis pins and split pins in to connect the pedals to the master cylinders. You're all probably going to hate me when I say this, but I found it a piece of cake - presumably because everything is stripped out the car. Split pin 1 (Clutch) took 1 1/2 minutes. Split pin 2 took less than 5 minutes and both involved me folding my chunky frame in and out of the car (no easy task).



Right - now that bit was out of the way, I needed to do a few modifications to ensure fitting the column was a breeze. My Midas was different to a Mini in that it had two "cotton reel" spacers which mounted to the bracket on the column. The original bolts that I had was cut off as they were so rusty. I had some spare bolts, but they were too long and the thread did not reach far enough up the shaft. No problem - out came my tap & die set and Harry Hacksaw, and two suitable bolts were created. I was also unhappy with just bolting straight through the fibreglass, so I found some 3mm steel plate in the garage and cut it to shape and drilled some holes. Viola! One spreader plate. I then cleaned it and painted it. Whilst I had the grinder out I also modified the bottom of the brake master cylinder. The pedal box is for a single-line system, and the studs are shorter, meaning I could barely get a nut on to mount it. I gave the "foot" a tickle with the grinder which improved matters no end.



Whilst I was fiddling about by the master cylinders I figured it would be a good idea to redrill the hole for the throttle cable (the old one is now covered by the brake valve). So I did that and also popped in a grommet. Should be nice and straightforward now when I come to fitting the cable.



Fitting the steering column was actually pretty straightforward thanks to the prep work I'd already done. Spreader plate went on first, then I loosened the bolts holding the steering rack on so it could be moved where necessary. On went the column and after a bit of fiddling the pinch bolt slotted into place. A bit more careful lining up and the bolts went through the cotton reels and mount before being tightened up. I re-tightened the rack nuts before I forgot. Then I couldn't resist popping the steering wheel on for a quick look. Awesome day.



Column - you're going on the car matey...







"Cotton reels" and newly created bolts.







Spreader plate created







Modification to brake master cylinder "foot".







Throttle cable bracket fitted







Column in place







And just because I couldn't resist!

[mrbounce]

Just a quick update this evening. Once again I have been far too busy on other stuff so have left precious little time in the garage. However, have done a bit as Andy has been round to help out. I have the front subframe fitted loosely with mounts ready to fit (no pics) but this evening we turned our attention to the rear end. Typically for me, I had built up the full rear beam including radius arms without looking at the pictures taken when I took it apart. There was no way in hell that the bolts on the edges would go through with the radius arms in place... No bother - as the thing was on the bench anyway, out came the spanners and the two of us had the arm off within 5 minutes.



We then did a trial fit of everything then we bolted the beam to the car. I remember reading somewhere that the Mk 1s & 2s are ever so slightly different from side to side (can't quite remember why) and the bottom bolt on the nearside is right next to the bodywork. This meant modifying the washer - I remember the one I took off having about 1/4" taken off one side - so out came the grinder and I gave the washer a little tickle until it fitted perfectly.



I should stress that the beam is only on temporarily. I am not happy with the fit of the fuel pipe (bends are in slightly the wrong place) so will whip the beam off again next week and sort the fuel pipe before refitting everything properly. Who knows - there might even be wheels attached next time...



That's a rear beam - attached to my car!
 






Modified washer on lower bolt so it will actually fit! (Apologies for poor focussing...)

[mrbounce]

Right now I am an angry man. I am not sure exactly who to aim my anger at though. Let me explain: when I started on the rebuild for this car, I decided to use dual circuit Mini brakes using a "yellow tag" master cylinder and brake limiter valve on the bulkhead. I had used this set-up on 3 of my old Minis and they all had very good brakes - it just seemed a better and more cost effective idea to do this than buying a brand new Cooper S master cylinder and rear valve which would have cost £150. Of course, the main problem I had was that I needed new brake lines - not a problem as I was going to replace them anyway. And this is where the problem starts - BL or Austin Rover or whatever they were called that week thought it would obviously be a really good idea to have the two different ends of the brake pipe with different threads, one UNF, one metric. And obviously they were going to make it where one would fit the other, but only for a couple of turns - and it won't tighten up. However, for some reason, there is also an all metric brake line available (I know that Mini Sport sell one - www.minisport.com/bp96m-brake-pipe-96-front-pressure-valve-to-rear-3-way.html?___SID=U ). I have just discovered this, as the one I have fits perfectly in the valve on the bulkhead, but at the rear, it won't go in to the UNF 3-way union at all. I think that I have been accidentally sold an all-metric pipe because before I fitted it, I only checked the fit on the valve. More fool me. My problem is, I can't remember where I bought the pipe from so I can't yell at anyone but myself.



Therefore I will now have to remove the whole pipe and replace it with the correct one unless anyone knows where I can get a 3-way union with a metric inlet and two UNF outlets? This will take an annoying amount of time and will also require the help of an assistant, to hold a screwdriver so I can undo the bolts for the P clips. I am hoping that I can squeeze the new line in without having to fully remove the rear beam because...



I have re-done the fuel line, and it was a good idea that I did - I found a kink in the last 3 inches, which would have made fuel delivery a touch restricted. I cut the kinky bit off and it now sits nicely over the top of the beam, ready to be connected up to the fuel pump and filter I have. I have also fitted the first of the two radius arms. Using the help of a conveniently sized wooden box, which was exactly the right height to rest the arm on, I was able to attach the arm and associated bracket and tighten up the the nuts. I also chucked on one of the beautiful new rear shocks. However, I couldn't fit this properly, as when I jack the arm up, it'll only go so far before the rest of the car comes with it - this means that with the new bushes I can't get the top nut on it... Damn you new springs!!



More to follow as long as I don't go in there with hammers.



Fuel line now going exactly where it should be.







Radius arm attached to car, complete with backplace and brake mechanism.







Oh, and one of these beautiful bits of kit too.

[glenanderson]

Is the brake pipe long enough to remove the flare, swap the offending metric union for UNF one and redo the flare? If not, you can make a short link pipe with a metric female one end and a UNF male the other.

Don't worry though, frustrating as it is, we've all fallen foul of the metric/unified/imperial demon before now!

[mrbounce]

Yes it is - although it's got me doubting whether the connection to the valve is right and I haven't just been an idiot and plumbed it the wrong way round (this is despite trying it on the bench). Given that a new line is only £12, I think I will re-do it. I don't have a flaring tool nor know anyone who does so I shall rope in the help of Mrs Bounce or one of my mates and get them to hold stuff whilst I get twirly with the ratchet. Again... 

[strikey]

treat yourself...call it an early xmas pressie. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-REPAIR-TOOL-SET-METRIC-AF-FLARING-KIT-MINI-BENDER-TUBE-CUTTER-/231017832321?hash=item35c9bc5f81:g:3xwAAOxyvuVSFigm

[mrbounce]

Cheers strikey - I did just that. 

I have come very close to setting the garage on fire this weekend. I don't know whether it's me doing things wrong, or if this car is cursed, or I have just been REALLY unlucky with items bought.



I have firstly dealt with the brake pipe issue by getting myself a brake flaring tool, along with a proper pipe cutter. I tidied up the fuel pipe end whilst I was under the car using said cutter, then removed the offending metric brake union. A small bit of work later and I have a re-flared pipe end with the proper UNF union on it. Then Andy popped round on Saturday and after a bit of cursing and hitting things with a rubber mallet, the second radius arm was on the car. I haven't properly tightened up the nuts on the brackets yet but that will come later. On went the shock and we connected both shocks up without the top bushes in for now, until we can lower the car down onto its wheels. Then it all went a bit pear-shaped.



The plan was to pop the drums on and sling a couple of wheels on and take the thing off the rear axle stands. I wound the adjuster all the way out so the shoes were at their lowest possible adjustment. From what I can tell the springs and shoes are all in the correct position. But the drums will not go on. I took the whole brake assembly off and tried the drum on with it missing. Drum goes on ok. Put everything back on. Drum won't go past the shoes.



I have shut the garage and walked away, making sure that in the meantime I have no access to anything that can produce flame or be used as a clouting tool. I shall return to the garage when I am in a better mood...



Brake Pipe Flaring Tool helped sort out my pipe problems.







Driver's side radius arm now on.







Look at the shiny shiny (which won't go on...)

[mrbounce]

Another quick update as there's not much to show for it - but I have managed to sort my shoes & drums issue. As I had bought the shoes from a show many moons ago, I have no idea a) who I bought them from and b) who made them. So I did the honourable thing and bought myself a set of Mintex shoes from our local Mini Specialist. Today I went into the garage and after the usual swearing and struggling with those pesky brake springs, the shoes were on.



Now it was time to answer that million-pound question - would the drums go on? As I am not currently sitting in a police cell for arson, you know it did without a hitch. It's a funny old world. (*Note to self - don't buy no-name parts from a show...)



The answer to the brake shoe issue: Mintex shoes!







And look - it fits!!