1994 - Ford Escort Cosworth - power steering fluid tank

[jonomisfit]

I took a break from workshop work and did some bits on the escort.

I split the alternator which has had a lot of oil through it

P1070177 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then started cleaning it up

P1070178 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I got a lot of the gunk off it and put it back together.

P1070179 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

We'll see if it works ok when I run the engine. The bnrushes are fairly worn and there are fairly significant grooves on the surfaces they run on.

bolted it on

P1070180 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070181 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

after much gnashing of teeth i finally managed to get the head drain pipe fitted.

P1070182 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070183 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I dug out the front diff and started cleaning it up

P1070184 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070185 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

It looks clean enought, but I cant get the drain plug out, and I think i'll drop the bottom plate to check it beofre I fit it.

[melle]

Alternator bushes, slip rings (200W soldering iron required) and bearings (puller required) are easy enough to replace and you can test the diodes with a multimeter. I can email you a guide (that I've downloaded from the internet) if you're interested, or just do a quick google yourself.

[jonomisfit]

Much appreciated. I'll try running it and see if it works. If not I'll look to give it a rebuild

[16grit]

Good to see you kicking on with this, looking forward to seeing you fire up the big V.

Seeing your white engine block has rekindled a memory for me. Spectating on a forest event in the mid-80s, shortly after the Peugeot 205T16 had been revealed and raised a few eyebrows with its all-white interior. In the service area, looking around, and there was an Escort sporting a BDG with a white engine block. Two guys had looked stupidly fast that morning, a certain Pat Doran, relatively unknown at that point, and John Cross of Autocross fame. Can't remember which of the two had the white block, but certainly one of them.

[jonomisfit]

Thanks. I'm looking forward to it all being finished and running so I can get onto the next project.

Dropped the sump off the diff. generally in reasonable condition with no obvious signs of wear. backlash felt limited as well

P1070186 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

running a finger nail over the CROWN wheel and pinion teeth I couldnt feel anything

P1070187 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I protected the internals of the diff, then gave the mating faces a clean up

P1070188 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

sealed and buttoned back up

P1070189 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and bolted up to the sump

P1070190 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I added a very obvious piece of tape to it to remind me to fill it with oil before I put the driveshaft in.

engine is starting to get quite busy (and heavy)

P1070191 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then made a start on the other head drain

P1070192 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

this is the oil pipe type hose, which is a "cutter" and clamp arrangement

P1070193 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The red nut goes over the hose end, then the blue bit screws in and the whole arrangement "bites" preventing the hose pulling out

P1070194 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

hose pushed in

P1070195 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

screwing the fitting in

P1070196 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Tightened.... and aligned

P1070197 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

hose back in at the head end

P1070198 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The fittings work by a differntial cone seal, meaning the angle on the male part and female part are slightly different so there is high contact pressure and the seal achieve. This contact pressure is high, but is still in the elastic range of the material which is why the fittings are reuseable.

P1070199 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

female part

P1070200 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

hose on

P1070201 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[jonomisfit]

then onto the engine wirring

as the old loom had cooked badly I thoguht i'd fit some heat barrier to try and help

P1070202 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

making holes for cable drop outs

P1070203 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

goes down the bottom of the valley

P1070204 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

trial fit the inlet manifold (first of aboiut 50 fits....)

P1070205 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

it is all tight

P1070206 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

back end is a bit less tight

P1070207 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Next job is the fuel rail fittings.. if only it fitted with teh fittings and I didnt need to mod it. hmmm what if I do it this way.

P1070208 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

maybe

P1070209 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

maybe

P1070210 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Hmm. its just too tight here. The fitting elbow is pushing on the edge of the cam cover

P1070211 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

well..... the lip isnt doing too much......

P1070212 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

it clears! and If I add a washer under the fuel rail mount then I can get the fitting turned like so.

P1070213 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and there's just enough space to put the blank in as well on the return line (i'm using a dead head fuel pressure regulator)

P1070214 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

need to try it with some hose on. As its fuel hose it uses the PTFE type hose

P1070215 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which have a ferrule that pushes onto the PTFE line and then pushes onto this barb

P1070216 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

like so

P1070217 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then the nut winds up the back and compresses the ferrule and bits onto the hose

P1070218 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and some out like this, however i'm going to have to raise the coil back by 20mm to clear the hose.

P1070227 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Next job the injectors need cleaned and re-sealed

Stripped injector

P1070219 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the little filter looks fairly manky

P1070220 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

my janky injector cleaner set up. Carb cleaner blown through the injector and a 9v battery (via a lightswitch) to turn the injector on and off

P1070221 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

this works well, up until the carb cleaner softened the hose and it blew off mid test. Just as well I had my full face mask on as it blew carb cleaner all over me

injectors all cleaned up

P1070222 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and built back up with new seals, pintle caps, etc

P1070223 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

in the injector rail and wirring connected to them

P1070224 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which were a right pain to fit

P1070225 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and mannifold back on ready for beind bolted up some point later in the week

P1070226 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

its all very tight, but it does all fit, just.

[jonomisfit]

I had the inlet back on.... then remembered I hadnt bought and fitted the cooling hose which you have to do from under the inlet manifold. So i've unbolted it again and put the engine to the side until i have it.

P1070228 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Better start on this then

P1070229 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the donut adaptor has torx fittings on the end to allow the bolts to be tightened removed.... except being 30 years old they are solid... que double nutting and using that plus turning the torx fitting to get them to crack

P1070230 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which worked.... after a lot of swearing

P1070231 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070232 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I cleaned it all up and refitted it to check how the front piece of the prop would fit

P1070233 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070234 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cleaning up parts

P1070235 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

pulled the centre bearing carrier housing off

P1070236 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

you cant tell the prop came from a rally car.....

P1070237 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

most of which was packed into the void between the bush and the housing ... and in this void here

P1070238 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I spun the centre bearing and thought.... my... that sounds like it has been cooked hard and has no lubrication left.

I needed to use the bearing puller to get it off.... but it didnt have enough rear... so had to mod it it a bit with extra holes.

P1070239 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

it was TIGHT.....

but came off

P1070240 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

it had definately got hot

P1070241 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I cleaned up the prop pieces ready for a paint

P1070242 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I'll see how useabale this prop is when I shake down the car as there are a couple of slight dents on it (red circle) I may need to get it rebuilt be recoprop etc.

I went over the whole gearbox and cleaned it up a bit.

top

P1070244 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and bottom

P1070243 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

It turns out it was a recon box at some point as its been painted (in ali colour) and all the joints show signs of non factory rtv silicon

I removed and cleaned up the reverse gear indicator switch

P1070245 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which goes in here

P1070246 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

gears look used but I cant see any pitting or chips

P1070246 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I need to swap the connector to something I have a pair of, so will use junior power timer ones

P1070248 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

added

P1070249 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[jonomisfit]

Then onto the bit I was fairly aprehesive about.... starting the hydraulic clutch conversion

this needs these 2 ribs removed to gain access to the back of the clutch arm box

P1070250 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I drilled out the corners, them used a reciprocating multi tool to cut the ribs, then gave it a rough clean back

P1070251 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I coated the face with red sharpy pen, then filled it to a consistent flat face with the sharpy cleaned off. I then gave it a sand off

P1070252 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I also smoothed the transition into the rib to try and prevent it being too big a stress raiser.

clutch cylinder and template to drill the mounts

P1070253 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

taped in place so I can mark out punch drill points

P1070254 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

drilled

P1070255 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the clutch arm was very rusty, so threw it in the blast cabinet and gave it a quick tickle.

P1070256 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I refitted the clutch arm and lined it all up, but i need to have a boss for it to push on and extend out in order to get full range on the clutch movement

I made up a quick boss and tacked it on ..... which was too short so cut it off and made longer.

P1070257 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070258 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Its in the right position but needs some adjustments on length as now its too long....

[jonomisfit]

My bits turned up

Difficult to see, but I managed to get the through head hose on and the jubilee clamp in.

P1070259 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

comes out and goes on here

P1070260 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

swapped out the old plugs for new ones. They are sooty....

P1070261 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

new plug leads

P1070262 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fitted

P1070263 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I bought these HT leads as they were listed as slightly longer than the originals which is good as I will need to relocate the coil pack

P1070264 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

inlet manifold on and bolted down finally

P1070265 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070266 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then back onto the hydraulic clutch mounting

P1070267 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I tweaked the push nose mounting point

P1070268 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

lines up nicely

P1070269 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070270 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I bought one of these to allow easy fit removal of the box

P1070271 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

dry break coupler splits like so

P1070272 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which will be attached to the hose that come off this banjo

P1070273 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and the fitting nicley sneaks up between the body and the gearbox casing

P1070274 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[ossiecossie]

what size dry break coupler is that -3 or -4 ?

[jonomisfit]

Its an AN4 dry break.... however...

It turns out the slave cylinder only has a 3/8" thread for a banjo fitting and I'm now struggling to get an AN4 banjo for a 3/8 bolt.

I may need to go to AN3 hose and buy an AN3 dry break to get it to work.

That seems like the least resistance at this point, but if I have clutch actuation issues I may need to re-visit it.

[jonomisfit]

My Google fu must have been weak yesterday.... 5 minutes just found me some....

I've ordered them

[jonomisfit]

I was going to strip down, blast, and paint the gear shift cradle as its pretty rusty.

But i found this in my stocks instead.

P1070276 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

much better, will use this. Just need to swap over the mounts and the quick shift

selector out

P1070277 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bushes out. used two sockets and the press

P1070278 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

both all stripped down

P1070279 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

swapping over the shift mechanism

P1070280 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bushes in

P1070281 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cradle test fit

P1070282 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

when I started bolting up the cradle this bolt just spun... that'll be why. stripped.

P1070283 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

nothing a helicoil cant fix

P1070284 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cradle on

P1070285 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070286 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then got the flywheel out and gave it a quick clean over with the wire brushes

P1070289 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and eventually found the clutch cover plate

P1070290 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I gave it a quick clean and assemble to check it all.

[jonomisfit]

then dug out the starter motor. I wasnt hopeful of this working due to how long its been sat

P1070291 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070292 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

It turns, and the connections look useable.

So bolted it onto the gearbox to give it some stability for a test

P1070293 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Applied jump leads and a bridge to the solenoid input.... and nothing. Even bypassing the solenoid of the starter didnt get that turning.

Let see what its guts look like

looks remarkably like a motor :-)

P1070294 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The brushes still have a fair life in them, no signs of shorting, reduction gearbox is very sticky, and bearing are ok. Gave it all a clean down and reassembled it. then bolted it back onto the gearbox.

Success, spins and the solenoid throws again.

P1070295 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Gave the clutch fork a clean down and paint with high temp paint.

P1070296 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then decided the workshop was looking too clean so gave the subframe a clean over and got dust everywhere

P1070297 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Dug the mounts out from a box

P1070298 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bolted in

P1070299 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then bolted the subrame to the engine.... which was not easy as the new mounts are "competition" spec and are very still. But got there

P1070300 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and bolted in the gearbox mount

P1070301 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and as I had a spare 5 mins I gave a few bits a rough prep ready for some paint.

P1070302 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[jonomisfit]

My 3/8 AN4 banjo fittings turned up so i test fitted one

P1070303 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070304 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

clutch arm (painted in high temp paint) fitted back in plus a new clutch release bearing

P1070305 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

gave the prop parts a flat, then a go over with etch primer

P1070306 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

whilst waiting for that to dry I test assebled the compression struts for the car

P1070307 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

What didnt help was one of the brackets was made 3mm too narrow to get the rod end fitted, so i needed to reform it a bit....

primer had dried, so gave a go over with some black.

P1070308 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

At this point I was doing something at the bench and looked up to see a little colum of smoke rising.... hmmm.... what could that be.... oh... its a socket burning up a bit.

I had the 2.5KW heater on, plugged into one of the sockets i'd fitted.... which happened to be the old one... my assumption is there was corrossion inside causing a high impedence, which caused it to heat up with the heater on. I swapped out to a new socket and replaced the plug on the extension.

All sorted other than the rank smell in the workshop all afternoon.

back to the gearbox. Making up the hose for the gearbox

P1070309 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

it'll run over the top here

P1070310 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and down to here

P1070311 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

one of the machining reference points makes a handy point to thread for a clip

P1070312 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The braided hoses have the ability to saw their way through aluminium quickly with the slightest level of movement, so have put wrap on it to stave it off

P1070313 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070314 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fitted the receptacle side of the dry break connector.

painted prop parts ready for reassembly

P1070315 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[ossiecossie]

nice work I'm going to do the same on my gearbox i may put the dry disconect on the bulkhead i have seen them that are a bulkhead fitting.

[jonomisfit]

I though about doing that as well, but I don't really want anything sticking out as it's all getting quite tight.

[jonomisfit]

I found a piece of tube the right size and gently tapped in the centre bearing

P1070316 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

fitted the circlip and detritus deflector

P1070317 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then fitted the bush into the housing and slid over the bearing

P1070318 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bolted the donut to the front piece of the prop

P1070319 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then lifted the engine off the engine stand

P1070320 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cleaned round the rear crank oil seal and removed

P1070321 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fitted the new one

P1070322 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cleaned up and painted the bellhousing steel shim gasket

P1070323 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then fitted and torqued up the flywheel

P1070324 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

to do the next job i needed to have a quick session on the lathe

P1070325 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

i really really need to clean the lathe area and put the rear housing back on

and ended up with this.

P1070326 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

A clutch plate aligning tool

P1070327 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and clutch cover on

P1070328 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

with a bit of swearing I got the gearbox on....

P1070329 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The realised there were no dowels on either the engine or the gearbox.... Doh.... ordered. So box will need to come back off

As it will become inaccessible once the gearbox is in continued on with fitting the heat shielding on the gearbox tunnel

P1070330 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

still quite a way to go.

P1070331 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

As its just multiple double curvature I reverted to using 50mm wide strips and fitting that rather than the big sheet.

Still a long way to go....

Hopefully i'll get to have fun putting some more of that on during the week.

[jonomisfit]

After quite a fight I managed to get the transfer box to prop seal out

P1070332 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

fitted the new seal

P1070333 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Despite a lot of looking and a gamble ordering up what "could" have been the right dowels I couldnt find any

I need them to go here to align the engine box

P1070334 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I need to make something like this then

P1070335 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

some EN24T in the lathe

P1070336 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

ended up with these

P1070337 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

nice tap in fit

P1070338 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070339 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and it all lined up and pulled up tight nicely

Bolted the front prop in

P1070340 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070341 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I tried the starter motor, however its about 20mm too long to fit past the pasenger side front output shaft support. Hmm i'll measure it up tomorrow, then my dad is going to check his collection of starter motors. The original one must be there somewhere.

i then thought i'd check what mods i'm going to have to make to the exhaust down pipes as its designed for RWD, not AWD so will clash with the front prop

Passenger side fits easily

P1070342 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and there's plenty of room to make it fit tighter in the tunnel as well

P1070343 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

this is the side that has no chance of fitting.... what the

P1070344 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

looks like its touching, but its 20mm clear

P1070345 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the only bit that clashes is this where its just touching the bottom of the transfer box case

P1070346 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I should be able to adjust this to get a decent down pipe.

[jonomisfit]

I need to rebuild the steering rack. Which has been living in a shed for a long time.

I have an XR4x4 rack rather than a cosworth rack.

From what I can find online it turns out a cosworth rack is 2.3 turns lock to lock, and an xr4x4 rack is 2.5 turns lock to lock.

However

From what I can find it also looks like cosworth racks have lock stops to reduce the angle you can turn the strut to. So the 2.5 turn rack may not be too bad.

P1070347 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

get the track rods off.. which was a pain as there is a peined over part

P1070348 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

wind out the retaining clip ring

P1070349 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

official ford tool used.....

end support

P1070350 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

preload adjuster.... which has no threads left on the cap so not sure how effective its been

P1070351 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

retaining nut off

P1070352 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

pinion out

P1070353 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

rack out

P1070354 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and pressed out the rubber bushes as I'll be making aluminium bushes to solid mount the rack

P1070355 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I'll give it a blast, clean, and paint tomorrow.