1994 - Ford Escort Cosworth - power steering fluid tank

[jonomisfit]

I sealed up the important bits of the rack with rags and duct tape, then gave the steel part of the rack a clean in the blast cabinet

P1070356 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070357 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

i then gave the whole rack a good clean down

P1070358 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then cleaned up and resealed the valve block and rack

P1070359 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070360 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I painted the rack body (zinc primed, then a couple of coats of black) then did a fill in job. aluminium mounts

to the lathe

I didnt have the 30mm ali bar I needed... only 40mm.... cue a lot of material removal

P1070361 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

marked up and started trimming to size

P1070362 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

turned round, sized the bar and started cutting out the steps (pic shows 2 back to back, and two nose to nose)

P1070363 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070364 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

end up with these

P1070365 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

fitted them to the now dry rack body, a light press in with the vice

P1070366 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070368 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I test fitted it to the cross member, which was perfect one side and had a gap the other... A measure of the bushes I pushed out show them to both be the same size... a measure of the cross memeber shows one gap to be 5mm bigger than the other. I shall need to look at this....

Started putting the rack back together. replaced seals and greased the bits as I put it together. Finger crossed i've not pinched any seals as getting the pinion back in was a right pain.

P1070369 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The screw in cap to set the pinion rack preload had been cross threaded previously (i think this rack has been rebuilt before) and I couldnt get it to hold the spring down.

Back to the lathe and made this. Luckily I had the right set of change gears to get the 1.25mm pitch metric thread.

P1070370 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the two holes are for what I'd call a pin drive, which allows you to get a decent shear to turn it in. I used some drill bits and a length of box section with holes in it

P1070371 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and screwed in

P1070372 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I set it so the rack doesnt move back and forth off the pinion, but still moves freely side to side

P1070372 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

More rack rebuilding next time.

[Enbloc]

Nice work.

I've been asked to rebuild a rack, which I've never done before, so this is a good eyes on.

[jonomisfit]

We'll find out how well i've done it when i've put oil through it

It it comes back out again the answer will be not very well

[jonomisfit]

My dad had a rummage round in his sheds and found 6 different starter motors of 4 different types...

After a bit of an internet search I think i found the right part number which one of the starters had on it... He posted it down

A comparison

P1070373 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The perspective in the image is misleading as its only 5mm shorter than the one I have.

P1070373 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I stripped it down and cleaned up the internals

P1070374 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

rebuilding

P1070375 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and built back up

P1070376 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I connected it up to the little tester battery (and then recharged the battery as it was flat....) and checked the solenoid throws and the motor spins ok. Which it did. So sanded it and painted it

P1070379 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070380 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and ready to fit

P1070381 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fitted

P1070382 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

5mm length difference on the starter doesnt sound like much, but you can see how tight it all is round here. The starter is 5mm shorter, and the tube that carries the nearside drive cross sump shaft has a clearance notch in it, and it only just get in there

P1070383 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I had a spare 10 mins, so took a look at the heat shielding again. The exhaust pipes are going to run very close to the chassis legs so have extended the shielding

P1070384 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070385 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[jonomisfit]

I saw my backside with the state of the workshop, so spent some time tidying, sweaping up, and a tip trip to get rid of some junk.

Not perfect, but better than it was

P1070386 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070387 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070388 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and was embarrased by the state of the lathe, so gave that a clean up as well.

P1070389 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I'm still waiting for some flare fittings and tube to arrive so I can finish off the steering rack, so made a quick list of some of the major jobs to do on the escort.... there are quite a few.

P1070390 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

first one picked from the list.... rear suspension

P1070391 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

damper out

P1070392 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

beam dropped

P1070393 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

there isnt much in the back end...

P1070394 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

start stripping down the arms (my camera is on its way out as its constanly out of focus in half the pictures....)

P1070395 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I could get the nut off one of the hubs, but despite full pelt with the imapct driver, and a good yank with the extension bar (plus extender tube) i couldnt get it to budge. I've put it asside to take to local garage tomorrow to see if they can get it!

stripped the one I could get the nut off and put in the blast cabinet for a light tickle. The ends are duct taped up as they are spherical bearings in the end of cosworth arms, not bushes, and as they are in OK condition I don't want to junk them. I want to change to a 6degree rear beam in the future which uses rod ends not these bushes. As the bearings are £95 each I'd like to can avoid buy new ones if I can as it'll be wasted money.

P1070396 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cleaned up a few other bits

P1070397 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The hub carrier bearings are toasted... but as there's loads of grease in there I taped over them so prevent the blast media getting contaminated.

the arms need a few mods. First one is this relief cut. I'm running group A rear dampers which are intended for use in the mag rear arms. The damper mount for which are much shallower

P1070398 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

but using them on standard beams causes this issue on droop

P1070399 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the damper body wedges on the arm, so I've trimmed clearance.

P1070400 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Tigged on a new flange

P1070401 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070402 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Just... and I mean just.... enough space to get a socket on

The bracket with the bolt is bent, so I need to straighten it to finish the flange..... and work out what its for.... The roll bar mount is further forward on the arm. I think it might be for the group A anti roll bar. But its not clear.

P1070403 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070404 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The problem with coil over dampers on the rear is it shifts load to a relatively week point on the arm. Looking at some pics online the 6 degree beam rear arms get a reinforcing plate under the existing bracket, same with the strngthened arms for rallying.

go here

P1070405 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

some box

P1070406 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

a bit of trimming

P1070407 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070408 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

ready for a clean up and weld on

P1070409 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[jonomisfit]

I fettled the brackets a bit more then welded them in

P1070410 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070411 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070412 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Should add a fair bit of strength to rear damper mount

P1070413 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I knocked out the bearing on the rear bearing carrier

P1070414 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070415 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Its in OK condition. A few marks where it bearings havent been knocked out well in the past, but should be useable

bearings feel ok and look in not bad condition

P1070416 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the shells look fairly clean too

P1070417 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

appart from that.... that doesnt look good....

P1070419 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I have new bearings though.

The other arm is with the local garage to try and get the nut undone.

[mk2cossie]

Always good to see a nicely welded gusset...bracket

Certainly looks strong enough to last a forest stage 👍

[jonomisfit]

And will also hopefully survive the terrible country roads round where i live. I think most forrestry roads are smoother and have less pot holes.

[jonomisfit]

The local garage got the nut off for me in about 5 seconds.

a little light pull got the hub out

P1070420 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

but this pulled out with it

P1070421 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070422 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Which may explain why this bearing was rumbling....

knocked the bearing shells out and put the housing through the blast cabinet

P1070423 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070425 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

got the arm ready for a tickle

P1070424 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

worst bits cleaned off

P1070426 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

marked out to trim the relief round the damper mount

P1070427 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

trimmed

P1070428 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

stiffening strip tigged on

P1070429 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070430 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070432 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

added the coil over gusset and welded in

P1070433 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

cleaned up the bearing housing and etch primed

P1070434 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070435 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

[teaboy]

I think that is ready for a new bearing.

[jonomisfit]

Lots of odds and sods today

started painting the rear bearing carriers

P1070436 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Then back to the rack. My flare fittings and CuNi tube turned up

P1070437 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

started bending up the tube

P1070438 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

flaring the ends

P1070439 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

fits like so

P1070440 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and second one done and in

P1070441 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Not the neatest hoses in the world....

so gave them a little dress round for a bit to neaten up

P1070442 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then checked in situ to make sure it all clears

P1070443 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

feed and return hoses will need some angled fittings

P1070444 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which i'd better order....

[jonomisfit]

Better start dealing with this as well

P1070445 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the bushes are toast and being replaced with aluminium mounts. Best get them out and check the beam isnt rotted out under them as often happens.

P1070446 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the state of the bush....

P1070447 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and the other side.

P1070448 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I cut the top off the rubber and tapped them out

A little bit of rust in the cups, but not toooooo bad

P1070449 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Doesnt quite fit in the cabinet....

P1070450 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

but a combination of blast, twist knot in the grinder, and scotch bride discs in the die grinder got most of the paint off.

P1070451 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

a few bits are just tough to get to

P1070452 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bit more effort on it got off what I can get to

P1070453 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then cleaned it down and on with some etch prime

P1070454 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070455 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and leaving to cure

P1070458 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Then sorted through some driveshafts to find the right ones I need for the rear, and find the right sized drive flanges. I have 2 different sizes, the 2wd cosworth ones which are 108mm and the 4wd cosworth ones at 100mm. My rear diff is the 7" one which has the 100mm joints.

they are in there somewhere

P1070456 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and eventually found the right output flanges

P1070457 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

which needed a really good clean down and a zinc prime to protect them

P1070459 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Will see what I get on with next time.

[teaboy]

Looking good dude.

[mk2cossie]

Are the 108mm shafts and hub drive stubs surplus to requirements jonomisfit?

As I know someone that is after some of each

[jonomisfit]

Feb 18, 2023 22:13:14 GMT mk2cossie said:

Are the 108mm shafts and hub drive stubs surplus to requirements jonomisfit?

As I know someone that is after some of each

At this point, no.

I may end up changing things up later down the line and I've got a 7.5" Diff and beam that I may swap to, which run the 108's.

Sierra's R Us may have some for sale though.

[jonomisfit]

I pressed in the new bearing shells, the orange colour is the protective oil

P1070460 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the stub axles cleaned up and a light coat of paint on non mating faces

P1070461 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I need to clean these up before I reassemble anything

P1070462 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

studs pressed out using the press, some of which went with a bang and a half!

P1070463 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

faces all buffed up

P1070464 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I could do with re-plating these, but I don't have a plating kit so ive painted the faces with zinc primer

P1070466 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then paint polished back from mounting / clamping faces to prevent slackening

new longer studs to go in

P1070468 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

fitted

P1070469 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070470 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then on with rebuilding the rear bearing carriers.

Taper bearings greased and fitted

P1070472 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The cosworth manual call out some specific ford stanard the grease has to be compliant to, and this FUSCH one matched it

P1070473 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

wiper seal fitted

P1070474 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

And re-assembled

P1070476 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Nuts not done up as I need to split them to fit to the beam

Beam given a once over with some black

P1070465 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Paint left to harden

P1070475 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I was looking for the parts to rebuild the driveshafts.... and it was as cheap to just buy new ones. So I have. If they turn out to be rubbish i'll rebuild the original ones

P1070477 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

boot pushed on

P1070478 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

lobro joint fitted

P1070479 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

got coated in grease so no pics mid assembly

P1070480 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I ran out of time to do the other one, so will do it next session.

But quickly put some etch prime on the rear arms

P1070481 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070482 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070483 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

These will get a quick flat and paint next time.

[jonomisfit]

I built up the second rear shaft and paint marked them so i don't have to guess which is which when fitting

P1070484 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

started painting the rear arms black

P1070485 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fully painted

P1070520 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and started fitting the rear hub on

P1070521 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070522 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and stub axle in

P1070523 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

The bolts are only in termporarily whilst new ones arrive, as the had lobbed in anything they had and are about 10mm too long .

[jonomisfit]

then onto the rear diff, which looks fine

P1070486 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

except.....

oil has started leaking from here......

P1070487 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Which means the output shaft seal has let go. Which has happened in the time its been here

I was apprehensive about undoing the torx head bolts on the diff cover, but they all cracked nicley and undid easily.

P1070488 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

there is no diff drain.... so positioned over the edge of the bench, put under the seat with the oil catch can

P1070489 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and unleashed the stench

P1070490 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Oil was faily clean, although old.

And on to why I was taking the cover off..... These C clips hold in the output shafts

P1070491 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and the second one

P1070492 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

output shafts

P1070493 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

lovelly...

P1070494 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

that looks eaqually lovelly.... explains why its leaking

P1070495 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bunged up the bearings up to prevent anything going into them, then cleaned up as best I could

P1070496 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

other side was much better

P1070497 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

the front flange is also a mess. I looked in the manual and then selected ford tool A123-456

P1070498 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

yes..... yes that will also need replaced

P1070499 by jono_misfit, on Flickr


I cleaned up the flange in the blast cabinet

P1070503 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070504 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Still not pretty

Zinc primed all over

P1070505 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

I sprayed it all black, then cured it, then flatted the mating flange using my steel plate, some wet and dry, and WD40

P1070517 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

hmmmmm. I don't like that for mating to the prop.

I clocked it up in the lathe, which wasnt easy and took a couple of thou off the front face

Looks a lot better, not perfect, but better

P1070518 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070519 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

That should work, but if it doesnt then I'll need to releave one of the other diffs of its prop flange.


output shaft seals pulled out

P1070500 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

they resisted....

P1070501 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Cleaned up further and new seals fitted

P1070507 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070508 by jono_misfit, on Flickr


Then the output flanged got protected where they needed it and took a trip through the blast cabinet.

P1070506 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

gave them a clean, a zinc prime, and then a coat of satin black

P1070509 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

and fitted

P1070510 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070511 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Cleaned up the diff mounting face

P1070513 by jono_misfit, on Flickr


Cleaned up the back plate

P1070502 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

then applied the sealing paste to the diff cover

P1070512 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

bolted on and torqued up

P1070515 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

P1070516 by jono_misfit, on Flickr

Once the pinion seal turns up I'll fit that and that'll be the diff done... after a bit of a clean.

[mk2cossie]

What is it with Ford not putting a drain on their differentials?

Mk1 and 2 Granada is the same. Although I did repurpose one of the lower diff cover bolt holes in to a drain, with a small amount of drill action

[jonomisfit]

Saving those vital pence from a machining op and a bung...

I was contemplating putting a drain point in, and may well do that on the 7.5" diff.