|
|
Sept 30, 2020 14:51:12 GMT
|
Exhaust manifold has started leaking between the two pieces. I think the threads I cut have stripped. I hate cast iron for that; I'm thinking I'll just Helicoil it, assuming I can get the metal hot enough. That was the trouble last time.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 30, 2020 19:44:17 GMT
|
Bathroom silicone is good for sealing exhausts, esp the clear stuff. Completely heatproof so works for heads to manifolds. Might be of help?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 30, 2020 20:37:07 GMT
|
Bathroom silicone is good for sealing exhausts, esp the clear stuff. Completely heatproof so works for heads to manifolds. Might be of help? Wouldn't have thought it any good! The gap is small and the thing overall is held in one position. To look at it, you'd not think it leak; but you can hear it chattering at the back. The face of the exhaust manifold there isn't 100% flat either. I'll pull it apart again and try some all-silicone sealant.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 30, 2020 22:28:13 GMT
|
I know, I thought that too. All the drag racers use it as it seals but is easy to pull apart. I use it on my exhaust flanges, works well.
Most moderns now use silicone gaskets on inlet manifolds & things - all re-usable too.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 30, 2020 22:37:29 GMT
|
I know, I thought that too. All the drag racers use it as it seals but is easy to pull apart. I use it on my exhaust flanges, works well. Most moderns now use silicone gaskets on inlet manifolds & things - all re-usable too. I'll have to buy some. I did some calculations today on the rear axle, having hooked up the tach to check see what was what. Gearbox in top gear is 1:1 Wheel rolling diameter is 28" 1000 RPM equals 21 mph according to the GPS That makes the rear end ratio either 3.9:1 or 4.1:1 accounting for error (the two closest options). This combination makes for a top speed of 80.2 mph at 3750 rpm. Maximum long journey speed is about 50 with this axle ratio, with the 3.02:1 that would be 60. Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 30, 2020 23:17:59 GMT
|
This arrived in today's mail. Lower flywheel cover. Very handy to prevent curse word from getting caught up and flicked up into the bell housing (has happened already). Will clean up, paint and fit it. Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
yup i always use the bathroom silicone , the stuff that smells strongest of vinegar seems the best .
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Other side wasn't so pretty. Cleaned it up tonight after doing yard work. Coat of paint to try and protect it a little. Too the car out tonight, one thing to note is people really love to tailgate, even when doing a GPS accurate speed limit. Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tailgate because of the car or because they are ****ole drivers?
|
|
|
|
jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,838
Club RR Member Number: 40
|
1951 Pontiac Chieftainjamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
|
|
Tailgate because of the car or because they are ****ole drivers? Old car = slower than mine so must be holding me up. If out in the old thing at speed limits I find that people back off once experience the lovely whiff of unburnt hydrocarbons (may have to wait till summer for that to kick in). If that fails the amount of engine / transmission braking if I lift off makes them think my brake lights don't work... Have you moved to brighter LED tail lamps or thought of a high level brake light just in case ? Nice to see it out and about, sweet ride and built not bought. James
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, this has a large engine braking effect. I try to give a dab of brake pedal to light the lights up as a slowing down indication. I went back to regular bulbs because they are positioned in the housing better than an LED, and light up better. The brake lights are bright and very red. They're lower than cars these days though, but certainly no lower than say, a trailer.
I think it's just people being bad at driving.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The right leds are far better than bulbs, but they have to be the right ones. These ones Good quality leds will be around twice as bright as your std bulbs. They are red light output which passes better through red glass than white does, also has leds in the end as well as around the sides. If they won't ship to the states let me know & I'll ship them out to you if you would like them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The right leds are far better than bulbs, but they have to be the right ones. These ones Good quality leds will be around twice as bright as your std bulbs. They are red light output which passes better through red glass than white does, also has leds in the end as well as around the sides. If they won't ship to the states let me know & I'll ship them out to you if you would like them. I had some Osram ones and they were nicely bright but would also cause the turn signal flasher to go odd when the engine revs were up (higher voltage). The rear lamps don't have reflectors, the light scatter is purely a function of the red cover having a fresnel lens on the inside (and also has a retro-reflector in the middle). They're plastic, too which helps a little. Even in daylight they're nicely visible. They're actually pretty well designed, to be honest. I think what I really need to do is run a wire from the stop light switch to the back and put a high level LED stop light in the back window, more at the height of the ones in modern cars. It won't stop people driving like complete morons though. Phil
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 2, 2020 19:06:36 GMT by PhilA
|
|
|
|
|
It will if you put a "LASER" in it !
|
|
|
|
remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 919
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 3, 2020 7:28:07 GMT by remmoc
|
|
remmoc
Part of things
Posts: 919
|
|
|
This is what it started as Parasite lens was a screwdriver handle ( the see through red ones ) turned down and fitted in an LED holder
|
|
Last Edit: Oct 3, 2020 7:36:02 GMT by remmoc
|
|
|
|
|
Pleasant day today, so I went shopping. I bought a quick disconnect for the battery, which is a boon. I also bought some silicone sealant and some degreaser. Manifolds removed and split. Weapon of choice, as suggested. Stinky clear silicone. Applied to both sides of the gasket. It wasn't sealing well on the bottom edge. Threw the manifold back on, then bolted the stone guard on. That makes me happier now, having that. Reprofiled the crank vent clamp so it fits better. Took it for a run and it's definitely quieter now, that is good. Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I was reminded of a small detail today, one that annoyed me. Namely, the faded pink metallic paint the previous keeper slathered onto the detail points. How head-dress shouldn't be red, but the ear circle should. I decided to keep only the circle red. Removed the old paint. Roughly masked up with fine line tape. That's his lug-holes done. I kept the ribs, it was a detail made by the previous keeper that I liked, just didn't like the execution therein. Subtle touch. Phil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Is the Chief's noggin fragile, with the crazing in the plastic?
Also, if you wanted to install a taller final drive, would an alternative diff/rear axle be readily available from other GM vehicles of the era, or is yours Pontiac-only?
Best, John
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Is the Chief's noggin fragile, with the crazing in the plastic? Also, if you wanted to install a taller final drive, would an alternative diff/rear axle be readily available from other GM vehicles of the era, or is yours Pontiac-only? Best, John The crazing is mostly surface, but as with any old plastic that's been in the sun, it's brittle. Eventually I want to get a replacement. The rear gears are common to Oldsmobile and Pontiac from 49 to 53 so there should still be a few out there. Phil
|
|
|
|