1979 Capri 2.0 "Ghia " - Spraying Bumpers / New TCAs

[cjhillman]

Also is there any difference in these and the JBW Smoothies ? they look the same and cheaper!! I'm curse word with wheel fitment but I thought these could be cool for the Capri... could maybe go wider on the back too.

www.retroford.co.uk/product/lotus-replica-steel-wheels-13/

[kevins]

I had a look for the throttle bush unfortunatelly I can't find one, there used to be a bag of them, If it turns up I'll let you know.

[cjhillman]

Cheers mate I appreciate that. I still need to mess with the cable on this. Its still very tight but just about drivable. I wont be going too far out the area until its sorted or i have a spare haha.

[cjhillman]

Not quite there yet it seems. Took a little spirited trip to Tesco for some much needed toilet roll this morning. On turning into a street next to the shop I noticed the Steering didnt quite want to straighten up from turning right. I think i've had this before but now its pulling to the centre of the road on and off. I was trying to figure out if it was on pressing the brakes but I couldnt narrow it down. It would make sense but they are new callipers. Non of the wheels felt hot after driving it for about 10 minuets. Maybe thats not long enough though.

Its had a new Steering rack, Tie rods, top mounts, dampers & springs at the front.

Also looks like I need to tidy up some wiring again under the bonnet... this car loves to burn. I had made these connections for the ignition module and fuel pump... the ignition module seems to have burnt through the heat shrink. It was resting against the black metal plate before though.

[kevins]

Ref the steering, check the anti roll bar bushes (both at the control arm and at the body attachement), the anti roll bar controls the fore and aft position of the wheel, as the top mount is fixed to the body this also changes the castor which is what gives you self centering steering.

[cjhillman]

Mar 4, 2021 17:25:02 GMT kevins said:

Ref the steering, check the anti roll bar bushes (both at the control arm and at the body attachement), the anti roll bar controls the fore and aft position of the wheel, as the top mount is fixed to the body this also changes the castor which is what gives you self centering steering.

Will check this. My plan is to jack it up and test that the brakes are not binding so, I'll have a look at this. Wondering if this my problem though.

Just came back to it after about an hour and noticed this on the drive way. This is a reconditioned rack I bought 2 years ago so not sure what is causing this to leak?

[cjhillman]

Filmed a little bit of trying to track down any problems with the front end. I don't really know what I doing but to me it all seemed ok. There was a loud noise on full lock. Not sure if its coming from the side I was looking at yet.

I saw a few videos talking about jacking up under the ball joint to see it move... I couldnt do that with the wheel on this Car, its too close. I did find a real load creak on full lock one way. Also the wheel does seem to move a lot when the steering lock is on but, I duno if thats just a worn steering lock.

I didnt really get into the back Axle today. Just went out in the dark and prodded the Rear Anti Roll Bar bushes which are a little worn I think. It used to lean(and pull) to the left at the back but after I replaced the springs and then the front callipers this totally eradicated that problem and its been straight as a dye. This one is new though.


I didnt check the other side as I couldnt move my Escort its died today (battery related) and I thought i would concentrate on the side it was pulling too.

[cjhillman]

Still working on the pulling to the right thing. I jacked up the rear and removed the left hand side U bolts (cut them down too) and tried to re fit them better as it seemed the axles wasn't located that well here. This did seem to help a little but its still doing it. I think I'll try tightening up the front Wheel bearings next, I just ran out of steam this week.

I'm looking for some Grommet advice though. After about 2 mins of driving this the waft of warm oil/fumes coming in the cabin is rank. even my new Vanilla Magic Tree cant mask it.

It seems to be the one behind the master cylinder which has a gap between it and the fire wall?




And this one which is really awkward. Its for the feed for the oil dial, the choke cable and something else I cant remember. Is there an easy way of blocking these things off? of course this has Grommet but I think I could do with something new .





Also, used it to pick up a little bit of timber today... good size boot (except all the plop in the boot lol)

[nickwheeler]

I'm pretty sure those grommets are the same as RWD Escort ones. Which means they're readily available; Rallydesign have them, and Burtons probably do if you want to pay more for the same thing. The cables/oil pipe one could be made from a generic blanking grommet of the correct diameter and some black RTV if you don't mind the unsightly appearance.

You could probably use some thick closed cell foam(like sleeping mats) for the missing servo one, which is similar to what Ford used if I remember right.

[cjhillman]

Mar 13, 2021 21:13:22 GMT nickwheeler said:

I'm pretty sure those grommets are the same as RWD Escort ones. Which means they're readily available; Rallydesign have them, and Burtons probably do if you want to pay more for the same thing. The cables/oil pipe one could be made from a generic blanking grommet of the correct diameter and some black RTV if you don't mind the unsightly appearance.

You could probably use some thick closed cell foam(like sleeping mats) for the missing servo one, which is similar to what Ford used if I remember right.

ahh great. just looking now on Rally Design. I'm not too fussed about how it looks as long as its not mega unsightly although its fairly low down. The brake servo one is the strangest. Maybe I can make something from one of these grommets though. My aim is to not take anything apart if I can help it.

[nickwheeler]

Mar 13, 2021 21:55:27 GMT cjhillman said:

Mar 13, 2021 21:13:22 GMT nickwheeler said:

I'm pretty sure those grommets are the same as RWD Escort ones. Which means they're readily available; Rallydesign have them, and Burtons probably do if you want to pay more for the same thing. The cables/oil pipe one could be made from a generic blanking grommet of the correct diameter and some black RTV if you don't mind the unsightly appearance.

You could probably use some thick closed cell foam(like sleeping mats) for the missing servo one, which is similar to what Ford used if I remember right.

ahh great. just looking now on Rally Design. I'm not too fussed about how it looks as long as its not mega unsightly although its fairly low down. The brake servo one is the strangest. Maybe I can make something from one of these grommets though. My aim is to not take anything apart if I can help it.

You're not going to do anything effective without removing the servo. Although with some careful work, you probably won't need to remove any brake lines so it isn't a difficult job

[kevins]

As a temporary measure I would get a piece of closed cell foam about 2 inches thick, cut a polo shaped piece out with the centre slightly smaller than the gaiter shown in the photo, slit it feed it over the gaiter then put a couple of tie straps around it to hold it together and in place.

Just make sure you don't tighten it too much so it can bind up the push rod.

[cjhillman]

Went to Halfrauds today to see if they had any Grommets and an new indicator bulb holder. don't know why I bothered. Thanks for the replies above. So far I've used some silicone sealer/pushed the old oil gauge grommet half way through. I taped up as much of the servo hole I can for now.

It seems to have been pinking/pinging a lot today and maybe gradually over the last few outings. The guy who had it for a while timed it up to 12 degrees i think and set it all up but, i'm guessing its getting too much fuel now...? What do you guys think? it seems quite sooted around the spark plug ring. Is the porcelain too white too? Bit gutted as I was going to go to work in it tonight but I don't want to damage anything.


This is plugs 1 and 2. Maybe its the mixture and as he set it up without a working Accelerator Diaphragm ?

[cjhillman]

Couldn’t resist and drove the 4 miles to work in it. Felt pretty good especially on one roundabout 🤣 it’s definitely pinking a lot though. I’ll have to check the timing and mixture I think. Obviously start with checking it’s the right spark plugs. I feel like you can here a little miss fire somewhere at idle occasionally too.

Other than that it’s driving ok now. The brakes are feeling a little curse word though unfortunately. Don’t think it’s my imagination either 🤔

Will report back soon...

[mk2cossie]

In what way do the brakes feel plop?
If it is lack of servo assistance, an air leak will cause that and the pinking too!

Plugs look a bit like too lean a mixture from the colour of the electrodes to me
But then I'm a bit of an amateur with older engines and carburettor stuff

[cjhillman]

Ahh you might have hit the nail on the head there ! It feels exactly like that. Like there is a gap of nothing in the pedal then just hard. I have noticed a scraping sound too though on braking now but this might be curse word disks and always been the same . I’ll be checking of course

It made it to work and back fine but is pinking like mad and i think it’s getting worse . It sounds like I can hear it down the exhaust in the center of the car too. I’ll have a look at the mixture and see if I can clean these plugs up a little . Don’t want to mess with the timing if I can help it.

[cjhillman]

So I just cleaned up the plugs a little, went for a drive to get it warmed up and to check the timing . Seems to be about 10 degrees retarded I think . I hadn’t got my tipex with me so I’ll save messing with this more for another day. I might pick up some new plugs too before going through all this. One is a different (although same AP6SF )NKG plug.
My main thoughts are, now the Accelerator pump works would all the tuning someone did before be out ? Or should I forget that and adjust the mixture first then the timing a little ?

Pulling off the drive I noticed a loud clunk from the rear. I have to go up a small step and down a curb to get off. It seemed to do it if the handbrake had been on or I had my foot on the Pedal for a while then moved off. I’d say it did it 3 times so ... not sure what that’s about . I’m guessing handbrake mechanism or a sticking cylinder.

I wanted to try and adjust the mixture before but I just couldn’t get my screwdriver in there so I gave up today. I need a bit more time on my hands. I don’t want to mess up all my settings so I need to think of the best procedure. I just want to stop it pinking so I don’t damage it.

[peteh1969]

The plugs look a touch weak open up the mixture 1/4 tern, also only use premium fuel i.e. V power and if you can an octain bosster

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Wynns-Petrol-Treatment-Carb-Cleaner-Petrol-Additive-325ml-65263-Job-Lot/122784847589?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

This make a difference even on premium fuel.

[cjhillman]

Mar 16, 2021 15:03:25 GMT peteh1969 said:

The plugs look a touch weak open up the mixture 1/4 tern, also only use premium fuel i.e. V power and if you can an octain bosster

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-x-Wynns-Petrol-Treatment-Carb-Cleaner-Petrol-Additive-325ml-65263-Job-Lot/122784847589?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

This make a difference even on premium fuel.

I put some premium fuel in yesterday as the gauge was reading low, no change though. It wasnt doing it when I got the Car back from the garage but over the last couple of weeks since the Accelerator Cable, Accelerator Pump and I guess the new Choke now a lot must have changed. I'll get it warmed up and try the mixture on the Carb. When i tried to get the screwdriver in before It wouldnt budge but, I was working blind so maybe it was me. Nearly there I guess.

I was watching a video where they talked about the timing being too hot or too hot of a plug when the soot mark is far back on the Ground Electrode. Does this look about right? or should it be further up?

[peteh1969]

Those plugs are far to weak a mixture.

When you get to the carb and you have freed the mixture screw off carefully wind the screw in until it bottoms out/stops then wind it out one and one half full turns then try it.

You should only need the choke when the engine is stone cold say first thing in the morning if you only drive it say 2 miles to the shops then you will need the choke again to start it as the engine will not be up to proper working temp go for a proper run say 30 mins on a dual carriage way and get it properly warmed up, if you are needing the choke all the time to start it then the mixture is too weak, the plugs are getting to hot because they are igniting what little fuel/air mix they have too soon and they are not working efficiently, that's they are so white and the electrodes are so clean they are not burning properly.

If you can get one get and use a Gunson Colourtune and st the mixture using that, you will be within 99% of having the mixture rite then.

Pete