63v8
Part of things
Posts: 232
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I am going to get some Comma super coldmaster coolant for my RV8 engine but have found 5L of 5 Star blue anti freeze in the back of a cupboard. It's unopened but I must have bought it over 10 years ago and not sure if it's OK to use. I was thinking of using it to fill up the system to get the car back on the road put a few miles on it to clean out the system then drain it and replace it with new Comma.
Just not sure if there is a shelf life for safe use.
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dreadspeed
Part of things
1972 triumph 2.5 pi on carbs
Posts: 66
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Id just dump the old anti freese buy some cooling system cleaner put it in drive it flush it it out the add new anti freeze. no risks taken for the sake of a few quid
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I can't see why it would go bad? I've got two cars I've had for a very long time and I'm the second owner on both In the time I've had them they've not had any coolant work and I can't think they would have before my ownership So that would mean the coolant currently in them is going to be 20 years old and I don't have any issues
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1992 240 Volvo T8 1955 Cadillac 1994 BMW E34 M5 (now sold ) 1999 BMW E36 sport touring x2 1967 Hillman imp Californian "rally spec" 1971 VW bay window (work in progress) 1999 Mazda 323F 1987 Jaguar XJ12 All current
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Always wondered about this, most manufacturers say change it every 2 years to maintain corrosion protection but there is no shelf life on tha can, and surely the mileage you do must be a factor.
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63v8
Part of things
Posts: 232
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I found some tech info for some blue Glycol anti freeze on sale which said the usual 2 years life in car, but also said it had a shelf life of 3 years. So I will leave my 10+ year old in the cupboard full of new but very old stock you find when looking for something else you need.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,306
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I've had anti-freeze go bad before. I can't remember exactly what went wrong, but it was certainly different to fresh stuff I bought. IIRC it became lumpy etc.
Also, I wouldn't get that Comma stuff. I'd only use Comma G48 ; it's about the only IAT coolant I've seen that has inhibitors that actually work without going to an OAT coolant, and I've probably changed coolant too many times now on cars. It's also an OEM coolant for BMW and until Mercedes and Porsche started supplying OAT only coolant, it was the choice of coolant for them as well.
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63v8
Part of things
Posts: 232
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63v8
Part of things
Posts: 232
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Halfords stock all the fancy new Comma coolants but not the Super Coldmaster. Asked if they could order some in and they said no only what they stock. Strange as I have ordered a 14 inch K&N air filter from them as a special order in the past. Phoned a local old school type motor factors and they do have the Comma Super Coldmaster in stock so will get it from them.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,306
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I don't mean to sound nasty but I do wonder if the SL shop recomends the Granville due to the cost. Even on trade, G48 concentrated for 5 litres is £30; that's not alot of margin, and can soon make a coolant change pretty pricey. But it's the only IAT coolant I've used which hasn't caused silt/rust in a cooling system in two years of use, and that includes cars where I have flushed the block and change radiators on cars. I've used prior to that Comma Blue from GSF, Unipart SuperBlue (that was a waste of money), Halfords Blue coolant, and a couple of other blue types. G48 has treated me very well; cars I've bought with it in also seem to have little to no rust present in them. OAT is fine but the application has to be considered carefully. The TLDR version is this: -IAT coats stuff inside an engine with a protective layer. Phosphate is brilliant here but it scales with hard water. So in the UK other products do this job. However, as time goes on, these protective coatings/inhibitors go bad, which is why the water becomes rusty and the coolant becomes nasty and gloopy. -OAT works differently. It attacks any rust forming in sight. This is one reason why OAT coolants need much less changing. However, on cars which haven't seen regular coolant changes and the mating faces are corroded, it can cause leaks. This active process can also attack solder, which is why OAT isn't genenrally recommended on cars with brass or copper radiators. But the jury is out there on later soldered stuff being fine ; buses for example are meant to be copper rads still, but they used OAT. Then you get into some rubbers swelling which som coolants. This is one reason why you get manufacturer specific coolants these days, and that's before you consider that different engines will have different alloys between them .
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