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May 21, 2021 13:08:47 GMT
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That...is incredible. I totally need to take more stuff apart instead of searching for replacements... I'll only repair something if it fits two criteria: First, if it's nice to have the original part in the car, and second if my repair costs less than a replacement. In this case a spool of wire $11, compared to the cheapest "working" one of these on eBay at $65+postage. Phil
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,840
Club RR Member Number: 40
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1966 Plymouth Fury 3jamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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May 21, 2021 13:44:29 GMT
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That...is incredible. I totally need to take more stuff apart instead of searching for replacements... yeah but on fiddly stuff like this if you are anything like me you end up with a pile of very small bits on the floor and much swearing before going to e-bay anyway in a huff ! Phil has skills.... James
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May 21, 2021 13:49:49 GMT
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It's no more complex than the clock that used to sit on your grandparents' mantelpiece. Yes, there's small bits but so long as it's not horribly broken (this wasn't, it was just jammed up with lack of oil) you can normally get it working again.
Phil
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,819
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May 21, 2021 14:57:22 GMT
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Nice one Phil
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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May 21, 2021 15:34:18 GMT
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Just got notice that the shipping label just got made for the electromagnet wire. Expected delivery date May 28-30, but it's coming from New Jersey so hopefully it'll be here sooner than that. I think they've just allowed a week and a half as their shipping time.
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May 21, 2021 16:16:50 GMT
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Bloody brilliant mate.
Just raised my coffee to you.
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May 21, 2021 16:42:56 GMT
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well i am a bit late to the party , but here now .
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While I'm waiting for the wire to arrive, I decided I would fix something I had seen that I didn't like. The rubber insulating bungy had seen better days, so I took a tap washer and cut it down to fit. Snug fit. The ground strap goes over the large step, and that is pressed in a springy fashion against the back of the case by it. Positive terminal sticks through neatly and that'll keep it all in check. Only a small thing, but necessary. Phil
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May 24, 2021 19:22:27 GMT
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UPS arrived. Abrasive wheels arrived so I can make a start on stripping more filler off. Phil
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May 24, 2021 20:16:35 GMT
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UPS arrived. Abrasive wheels arrived so I can make a start on stripping more filler off. Phil Those work well, and also can be quite aggressive
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May 24, 2021 20:51:48 GMT
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Those work well, and also can be quite aggressive I need moderately aggressive, hoping they don't hammer the metal underneath too hard. Phil
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May 24, 2021 20:55:06 GMT
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Those work well, and also can be quite aggressive I need moderately aggressive, hoping they don't hammer the metal underneath too hard. Phil DSimple, gentle modulation will do it all.
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May 24, 2021 22:52:44 GMT
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Archaeology. Started to pull more paint and filler out. The metal underneath is rusty and gouged. The average depth of the filler was between 1/16" and 1/8". So the profile before... Just wavy and untrue to the correct shape of the car. Pulled all the filler out. A couple unpleasant creases and the swage line is as straight as Iowa railroad. However, the shape of the car is mostly correct underneath. Bash bash bash bash. With a squirt of gloss paint on you can see now the swage is straight and despite the ripples- I need to get a proper dolly for that (was using a 3lb lump hammer and a piece of wood) the panel is now mostly straight. What gets me the most is that someone was proud enough of that effort to sign it with a Dremel into the metal. Phil
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Last Edit: May 25, 2021 3:16:19 GMT by PhilA
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Liked for the result, not for the apprentice signing his work.
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May 25, 2021 19:56:31 GMT
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Tick-tock, Clarice. Tick-tock. The new wire came in so I tried winding it on to the form. That proved to be impossible to make tidy, so I unwound it and stuck it in my drill and tried to clean it up with a file to flatten the burned bits down. Broke the end off doing that so made a new one from a milk bottle top. 212 turns back on. Not as tidy as I would like but it doesn't have to be pretty. Reassembled and staked down in place, soldered in. It's sitting on my bench supply, going CLUNK every couple of minutes, checking to see if it keeps time. I need to get or make a new knob for setting the time. Phil
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Last Edit: May 25, 2021 20:15:51 GMT by PhilA
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May 25, 2021 23:00:53 GMT
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Morning Phil, I'm probably telling my grandmother how to suck eggs here but I did the same thing with a clock and got it running perfectly on the bench. As soon as I put it in the car the accuracy went up the curse word The changing voltage seemed to send it all over the place. Dunno if that's helpful but it was a real pain in the for me.
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Morning Phil, I'm probably telling my grandmother how to suck eggs here but I did the same thing with a clock and got it running perfectly on the bench. As soon as I put it in the car the accuracy went up the curse word The changing voltage seemed to send it all over the place. Dunno if that's helpful but it was a real pain in the for me. A valid concern but that only really applies to constant-motion movements. This one uses a spring to provide motive power, thus regulating itself that way. The electrical system simply rewinds it when it runs out. That makes it remarkably agnostic of voltage and temperature changes. Phil
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May 26, 2021 23:14:08 GMT
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Bash bash bash. Pulled the dent out of the corner. Settled a couple more creases. Cleaning up, I looked at this. Looks a bit suspect. It isn't.... No, it is, all freaking MIG wire. What in the name of all things...?!
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,107
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That's gap filling bodgery at its finest!
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Liked for the idea that someone would do that, lock up the shop and go for a cold beer, self-satisfied in the knowledge they'd put in a good day's work!
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