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Oct 25, 2022 20:30:21 GMT
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May I suggest that you add a little more rubber to that fuel line perhaps up to just below your new clip, as a diesel engine on production mounts it will move around quite a lot and the hose will need a little more flex and ideally a bend in it to avoid it being stressed. Funny you should say that, was looking at it earlier and while the two off cuts hold it I didn't think they were long enough, I'll trim the copper down and get some new hose ordered in for final fit up. Thanks for the confirmation though, I always wonder if I'm going mad with over thinking some of this stuff! |
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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Oct 25, 2022 20:36:24 GMT
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Just reminded me that I saw a similar project at a show earlier this year - only it was all Mercedes. From what i remember it was a G-Wagen chassis and a 400something hp AMG motor. Really just looked stock from the outside. Only the modern interior gave it away.  That has gangster written all over it! Would love to see that in person and see how they mixed the new and old! |
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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*USEFUL INFO/HELP PLEASE* So I've neglected this thread a bit, but currently trying to fit doors. We have an inner frame and outer skin,both fibreglass, what is the best way to bond them? Resin or are there other products that will work better?
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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rob
Part of things
Posts: 160
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*USEFUL INFO/HELP PLEASE* So I've neglected this thread a bit, but currently trying to fit doors. We have an inner frame and outer skin,both fibreglass, what is the best way to bond them? Resin or are there other products that will work better? When I worked restoring old lorries with fibreglass cabs the doors had an internal wooden structure which would rot after 50 years. We would cut the frames/skins apart, make new wood and then glue it all back together with fibreglass filler. We would also add some resin matting to internal areas that could be accessed bridging one panel/frame to another. |
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Last Edit: Dec 5, 2022 23:06:29 GMT by rob
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When I put mine together, first built a frame from some small box section inside the door, this was then used to mount the hinges off as well as the door latches and window winder frames. Then once all sorted, fibre-glassed them together.
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the ones on my elan seem to be stuck together with a fiberglass material like the stuff with resin and glass fibres you get for bridging holes.
If possible try to bond them together on the car or make some sort of fixture to support them, it's very easy to end up with a twist without some sort of fixture to hold them in the right shape.
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PU adhesive (Tiger Seal) would also work.
As said - make a steel frame inside first to link the hinges to the latches and provide strength/structure.
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If you can find any of Langy's (Steve Lang) threads on the NSRA site he covers this in some detail. They will be a few years back as he passed away some time ago.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,755
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Polyester bonding paste
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Thank you all for these suggestions! The inner fibreglass frame has metal plates bonded in for the hinges so not sure it needs an extra box frame? Just wondering although will need something to hold window runners etc. Doesn't help the inner frame is a it squiffy and the outer skin isn't perfect either!
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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It's the relationship between the hinges and the latching/locking mechanism that counts. With no steel structure connecting them you have a risk of the relationship changing. That will cause endless frustration.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Riiiight gotcha! The door pieces also don't match the body curve but we now have a couple of plans to fix all that then return to the bonding together conundrum. Thanks again all, I bloody hate fibreglass! haha!
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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Exactly as above.
The bonded in plates may be fine for wibbly wobbly race cars for super light weight (although it would still annoy me) but you really want a frame in there, should also help to sort out the imperfections in the panels, once the frame was in, I ended up bonding the inner skin to the frame, then trimmed the outer skin to match up nicely before bonding that on
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Exactly as above. The bonded in plates may be fine for wibbly wobbly race cars for super light weight (although it would still annoy me) but you really want a frame in there, should also help to sort out the imperfections in the panels, once the frame was in, I ended up bonding the inner skin to the frame, then trimmed the outer skin to match up nicely before bonding that on Yeah I think that's the way we'll go, or remake the inner frame out of steel and just bond the skin to that. |
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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Do not adjust you interweb boxes, I have actually done something!   Power steering return line, but is a template as this pipe is less than 10mm dia. so won't fit in my flaring tool! Bother! Looks the part though!  Made another bracket for the fuel feed line, and welded on the bracket for the filter to engine hose as well as made the rubber hoses longer to accommodate any harsh vibration. Small victories! Braithwaite. |
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Just because there's a rulebook doesn't mean you have to read it.
cpt.braithwaite on the Instagrams
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Looking fantastic!
Really like this build, wish I was closer so I could come and play, but then again, probably a good thing i'm not with the amount of projects I should be working on haha
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Feb 13, 2023 17:45:00 GMT
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Is'nt it the last 20% of a build takes 80% of the total build time.....
Good to see you still chipping away at it.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,755
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Feb 13, 2023 19:38:45 GMT
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Is'nt it the last 20% of a build takes 80% of the total build time..... Good to see you still chipping away at it. 100% Then you get to the last 10% and that takes 90% of the time - Two years later its for sale as a 95% completed Winter project that will just take a few good weekends to finish for Summer fun.  |
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2023 19:39:19 GMT by Darkspeed
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Yeah all you can do is keep chipping away!
I find it helps to make a big list of jobs and put it on the wall, then tick things off as you do them. You'll probably find the list keep growing longer for a while, but there'll come a point when it starts getting shorter and you're over the mid-project hump, and that's really satisfying.
Also keep posting here, no matter how small the update. Validation from strangers is another great motivator and we love to see it!
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Feb 18, 2023 19:43:51 GMT
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Yeah all you can do is keep chipping away! I find it helps to make a big list of jobs and put it on the wall, then tick things off as you do them. You'll probably find the list keep growing longer for a while, but there'll come a point when it starts getting shorter and you're over the mid-project hump, and that's really satisfying. Also keep posting here, no matter how small the update. Validation from strangers is another great motivator and we love to see it! This. Everyone I know who sold their project unfinished regretted it later. The time you have put in this project (and the other project) you will never get back and that just dissapears if you sell. It may be an idea to put it in storage somewhere until time and motivation comes back. |
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