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I'm about to tackle the chassis on my hijet. I've already made a start using knot wheels & wire wheels on an angle grinder. I have red oxide primer to slather on but I wondered if I need to use a rust cure like fertan if the metal is clean? Once I get going with the knot wheel the chassis has no rust on it but do I apply the rust cure anyway or just straight on with the red oxide?  |
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It depends on how clean it is. A knotted wire brush wheel isn't going to get into any pitting on the metal surface, for example, unless you're able to approach every piece from every possible angle.
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 282 
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When you've run the wheel over it . . . take a screwdriver and scratch the surface . . .
Does it look orange or clean metal?
In my experience, quite a lot of the time the wheel polishes the rust after removing the looser stuff - hence the metal appearing orange when scratched.
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at200
Part of things
Posts: 86
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It needs rust to act on so would be a waste on properly clean metal in my opinion. Down to bare clean metal then epoxy primer brushed on if a nice finish isn't required. 2k epoxy primer is non isocyanate so safe to use at home and it won't absorb moisture like other primers.
I do use rust converter - Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - but only on surface rust that I can't reach. Using it just on pitted rust would be fine but it's wasted on good metal.
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Get some phosphoric acid and wash it over, that will kill any 'invisible' rust.
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This: Get some phosphoric acid and wash it over, that will kill any 'invisible' rust. and also this.... It needs rust to act on so would be a waste on properly clean metal in my opinion. Down to bare clean metal then epoxy primer brushed on if a nice finish isn't required. 2k epoxy primer is non isocyanate so safe to use at home and it won't absorb moisture like other primers. I do use rust converter - Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - but only on surface rust that I can't reach. Using it just on pitted rust would be fine but it's wasted on good metal. My approach: Mechanical, abrassive, get as much as you can off. Then use a chemical to remove rust and then in case there are areas you think missed a converter is sort of belt and braces. Then prep nicely and epoxy primer And don't do it when its very damp or you risk trapping moisture which will cause rust / microblisters / etc. later. |
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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As above, don't use oxide, even with rust converter it will come back through.
My method (Armour Rustproofing) ;
Clean with wire wheel, needle gun and scrapers,
Rust converter Built Hamber hydrate 80,
Zinc primer,
Dinnitrol wax over and injected in everything,
Final Shutz coat.
Think if your painting, as said above epoxy primers over rust converter.
Or Raptor type coating in what ever colour you like 👍
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