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Sept 22, 2009 7:34:20 GMT
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21st sept 09 had the day off yesterday and had the whole day to potter about as I pleased. first job was to strip off the front plate off the diff to replace the pinion seal. was the the original from '66 and leaked. the day before i'd give the diff case a primer coat with synthetic coach enamel. all back together and topcated with jawel truck chassis paint which is a synthetic enamel - £32 for 5L. first coats waa brushed then second coat was gunned on, as i'd got thecompressor out to give the axle tunnel a final top coat to ensure I hadn't missed bits or the brush coat had thin spots. you can see here the fine surface rust in the prop tunnel, no seriuous corrosion, just surface rust. prop tunnel will be sorted after the MOT this is good shot of the floor pans which are in really good condition, helped by a thick coating of axle grease..... radius arms built up with poly bushes and new bolts new trunnions for the rear hub setups... i'll hopefully be fitting this lot back in this week.
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Jan 21, 2010 13:57:13 GMT
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update coming shortly
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...........and here is that update, only 3 months late since jan I haven't been able to do much work on the spitfire, mainly because i've been building a small workshop extension to my single garage and sorting out niggly things on my daily Rover BRM for its MoT in early March. Also, the swmbo gave birth to our first child in March so its all been a bit slow on the spanner front recently. Last night, with the swmbo and junior at her sisters, I took the opportunity to get some stuff done on the spit...mainly getting a rear hub unit rebuilt. Last autumn I'd stripped out all the back end to clean and repaint everything as well as derust and paint the axle tunnel. everything was back together apart from the brakes etc. as a reminder, here is what the drivers side rear hub unit looked like way before: here's where I started - a bare axle side but it was already fitted up to the car: here is a new brake cylinder in place with the handbrake lever clamped between the backplate and the cylinder housing: Brake hose on next: The shoe adjuster was already bolted on.I'd stripped and freed up those a few months ago. Both seized/solid with old grease. Got the shoes on and worked out where the shoe springs attached to, the hynes manual I've got isn;t too clear so took a while to work it out. the final thing was to put the little pin through the back plate and the shoes then press on the little springs and lock tabs. the pic doesn't show the split pin that holds the handbrake lever in place on the shoe: Original drum cleaned up and painted, along with a new securing screw. the shocker is a new one with an extra coat of black rattle can, new bushes. was a child born out of wedlock to get pushed into the chassis section where it bolts up at the top: the original shocker was still ok but the body was very rusty: the final job was to fit a new handbrake linkage to the existing cable but the end sheared off... ......luckily after a rummage in the spares box that I've been collecting for a few years, there was a new back cable!! nightmare job trying to fit it though as the cable has threaded ends which need to be pushed through some very tight bends on the chassic and with the diff and halfshalfs in the way etc... snap... cut... finally on..... all done:
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,537
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Apr 27, 2010 12:27:31 GMT
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new bushes. was a child born out of wedlock to get pushed into the chassis section where it bolts up at the top: The single worst job I have found on these kinda cars. Getting the bolt out is a right pain and I don't look forward to the day when I may have to remove the Konis on the Herald. All that looks really good though. Lots of nice new bits.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Apr 27, 2010 12:48:35 GMT
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Agree with that, I hope my AVO's last some time yet for that very reason.
Look's like good progress tho, looking forward to the next update!
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Apr 27, 2010 14:15:30 GMT
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new bushes. was a child born out of wedlock to get pushed into the chassis section where it bolts up at the top: The single worst job I have found on these kinda cars. Getting the bolt out is a right pain and I don't look forward to the day when I may have to remove the Konis on the Herald. All that looks really good though. Lots of nice new bits. yup, both werea pain to remove but i recall one was really bad. Putting the top bolt back in was easy - it was getting the shocker with new bushes to go into the chassis mounting. i ended up putting a jack underneath the hub then using a block to hammer the shock up, into the mount. replacing the back part of the handbrakle cable was worse though IMO. Hoping to get the other side done over this weekend, top the diff up, bleed the brakes and try to fire up the engine again. hope the new rad core hasn't split over winter. i did fill the cooling system up with anitfreeze... ..
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Apr 28, 2010 10:41:51 GMT
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also bought this type9 box and prop off kevfromwales. came out of the rickman ranger he broke: just need to keep an eye out for bargain adaptor plates and clutch components
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Apr 28, 2010 23:23:33 GMT
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Some great resto work going on here! After reading of your struggles I'm now extra nervous about doing the back end on my Equipe as it's the same set-up. Very satisfying to see it all clean, un-rusty and painted!
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i strongly recommend that you give any bolts/nuts a wire brushing about 7 days before, then give then a spray of proper penetrant like 3in1 everyday. it really makes the job much easier
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Apr 30, 2010 20:30:46 GMT
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having a long weekend so managed to get a kitchen pass this morning. got the left hand rear hub/ brakes all fitted up. basically the same as the other side pictures so didn't take any pics. the last job of the day remained fitting the heel board bracket to attach the radius arm from the hub to body. you can see the grey arm is hanging in limbo. i needed to get this bolted in first to pull the hub square, so the top of theshocker would line up with the chassis mounting: couldn't find it anywhere....was well hacked off as its simple bracket but costs £25 for a new one. after searching all afternoon i found it in a box of stuff in a bedroom wardrobe. bunged all the bits in some hot Deox-C to derust. will paint up tomorrow and fit hopefully on monday, allowing to finsih off by hammering in the shock top bolt:
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Another issue that i'll have to address for the MoT will be the sill corrosion on the passenger side which has resulted in the door gaps closing up as the body sags. Got a hold of this door gap adjuster second hand which is great for the job (made by TSSC IIRC, are about £60-70 new). fitted it the other day to keep everything in place until the sills get done: here's how she currently stands - looks the same but all the running gear is overhauled (except box and lump):
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Also yesterday, after getting over a mild does of food poisoning, got the diff refilled with EP90 GL4 oil. The manual states the diff capacity is 1 pint, so about 450ml. The usual method is to refill through the drain plug underneath and stop when it starts to spill out. Most of the oil leaked out when the diff came out to have the input shaft seal replaced. The other way of refilling is by unscrewing one of the spring clamp bolts and dribbling oil down the thread hole: Bottle of GL4 and a suitable flexi pipe (easibleed pipe): Afterwards, I found a suitable shouldered bolt and used that instead of the stud. Makes it easier for next time. the bottle was 1L so I just estimated just under half went in. Service interval is every 12k miles:
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top of the roof is just below the wing mirrors on the family people carrier:
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Nice work! Is that hardtop an aftermarket one? Never seen one like that before!
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the hardtop is made by a company called Omnibob. Although its looks like the early type bubble hardtop for mark 1-2-3 spits, its actually for mark4-1500 Michelotti redesign spits with the square door glass. its fits but need some fettling to the screen top to clamp it on and also to reprofile the hardtop around the door glass. its all fibreglass so fairly simple.
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I'm currently debating whether to sell the spit project we've got a 5 month old son (which is time consuming ) and I'm struggling to find the time to work on it as i'm doing stuff to my redtop mini and the rover brm, and thats only when i can escape from the house for a few minutes.... As the mini only has 2 seats and the brm is too new i want to get a nice 4 seater classic (currently reading up on porsche 924's). the missus is also now not going back to work, so ideally i want to move from 2 modern cars, the mini and spit to one modern, the mini and 4 seat/2+2 classic for family based classic motoring.
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Aug 24, 2010 13:23:56 GMT
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now up for sale. currently being tempted by porsche 924 turbo, citroen GS, volvo 144's or merc stacklight w114/5
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Aug 24, 2010 14:49:26 GMT
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I dunno, I run 185's on the front of mine and 205's on ther rear. the 185 are fine and i feel sit in the arch well, altho you may be going lower than me. 205's are to much for the lowered rear end and foul during reversing on the inner arches.
Good to see your still progressing this tho!
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Siert
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,105
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Aug 24, 2010 19:01:01 GMT
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now up for sale. currently being tempted by porsche 924 turbo, citroen GS, volvo 144's or merc stacklight w114/5 On Sunday evening after the RRG show a guy drove a GS break onto the Haynes parking lot. I talked to him and showed him my GS which was parked at the camp site. This guy told me he owned 24 (?!) GS's. I didn't write down his name but he mentioned GS specialist Chevronics a couple of times so I'm sure they'll be able to tell you who he is.
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