ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 28, 2010 22:44:48 GMT
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www.northcotts.clara.net/tsscdevon/technical/alternator/alternator.htmlIt seems you can use your spade connectors. As for the bracketery, I would be tempted to try and get them from a Midget/Triumph 1500 engine or Spitfire 1300, considering they both are essentially a similar engine to yours. You may need another belt but they are around £5 (maybe less from certain sources .
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Nov 28, 2010 23:10:35 GMT
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okay sweet, just gonna have a read of the link. How much do you want for it?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 29, 2010 20:05:29 GMT
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Hmmmm, A 6 pack of beer sound alright to you? Failing that, a few pints will call it even . In that price, I'll see if I can source you a new belt cheap enough for a Midget 1500 (assuming that is the belt you need considering the engines are similar etc.).
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2010 20:06:19 GMT by ChasR
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Nov 29, 2010 20:36:38 GMT
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The thermostatic ones are interesting. From what I remember one part of the coily pipe needs to be clipped to the hot (ie cabin) side of the heater matrix, to gauge how hot the air coming out of it is. On that one not sure what the other end should go, probably in the outside-air side.
Basically you set the thing not be physically opening and closing the valve yourself, but positioning the thermostatic assembly, which then opens the valve accordingly- if you have it set to midway but the intake air is frigid then it'll open the valve more to accommodate the difference, theoretically making "warm" on the dial the same temperature coming out the vents.
In theory too it would mean if there was adequate airflow, that's the temperature of the cabin, rather than having to faff about adjusting the temperature dial all the time.
That and when the car's cold setting it to warm will make the heater valve open wide to allow max heating, once it's warmed up it'll close off to keep the temperature pleasant and not roasting.
...that's the theory, at least.
I just replaced mine with a standalone valve from a Mini
--Phil
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Lacy
Part of things
Posts: 247
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Judging by the amount of swarf around the end plate I would suggest the phosphor bronze bush seized.........
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2007 Porsche 987 Boxster S 'Percy' 1994 Landrover 300tdi 90 CSW 'Connie' 2001 Buell M2 'Bertie' 1976 Kawasaki Z1000 A1 'Nobby' ....and my wife has some nondescript modern box of some sort
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Cheers Phil, that's pretty cool actually, will have to try and see what difference it really makes. Got the reconditioned dynamo fitted but not the battery won't charge whilst idling and it won't even start today. Thinking I might have the fan belt too tight and the tick over too slow?
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loosened the fan belt and increased the tick over speed and it's fine now
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Jan 24, 2011 13:29:13 GMT
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For some reason the radiator is overflowing too easily and I'm losing water which is making the car overheat. Could this just be as simple as a faulty rad cap?
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Brigsy
Part of things
Posts: 611
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Jan 24, 2011 14:45:56 GMT
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Could be the rad cap, check the thermostat/waterpump are working. If all else fails do a comp/sniff test the headgasket might be on its way, pressurising the cooling system.
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Jan 24, 2011 16:40:32 GMT
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what shouldn't it smell like? It does smell a bit burnt down there...
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Jan 24, 2011 17:16:57 GMT
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The coolant should smell of antifreeze - if it smells of exhaust fumes, and or has an oily scum floating on the surface, then the Hg is probably leaking into the rad.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:00:14 GMT
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I had this problem a long time ago on a Herald 1200. I thought it was the head gasket, got one from an Austin Rover dealer (yes, I am that old ;D) and it made no difference. In the end it turned out that the radiator was clogged solid with limescale and rust.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:05:42 GMT
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it does have a bit of an oily scum on it, and the water that came out was bright orange with rust...
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Jan 24, 2011 18:12:51 GMT
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it does have a bit of an oily scum on it, and the water that came out was bright orange with rust... Take the rad off and backflush it with a garden hose. You might get lucky.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:43:36 GMT
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If there's oily mayonnaisey stuff in the water then I reckon it's probably the head gasket. Hard to tell if the coolant is all manky and 'orrible but it doesn't sound good to me. Can't hurt to back-flush the rad though. At least the job will be straight forward on these!
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Jan 24, 2011 18:46:44 GMT
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Before you backflush it, fill it with caustic soda and hot water for a few hours.
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Koos
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Jan 24, 2011 20:00:28 GMT
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Wouldn't have said it was maynaisey, looks more like kinda soap or somethin.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,516
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Jan 24, 2011 20:34:18 GMT
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Try starting it up (from cold) with the rad cap off and see what happens. If its getting pressurised due to a head gasket problem the water will rise and get pushed out of the top very quickly. (Don't stand too close, especially as you'll probably get a shower from any of the water hitting the fan which is why I say do it when cold)
Have you seen it coming from the rad overflow pipe? Could it be leaking from the heater connections or something?
Sticky thermostat?
All the times I had head gaskets go on these engines it was very obvious, with an oil filler cap full of mayonnaise/steam out the exhaust, lack of compression etc. Don't be disheatened if it has gone though as it is a simple enough nuts and bolts job to sort out.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Jan 25, 2011 11:29:10 GMT
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If started from cold with the rad cap off it will take about 2-3 minutes to start to overflow then come out everywhere and hit the fan and spray everywhere. I did see it call coming out of the overflow pipe yeah, came out like a tap. Fitted a new rad cap today and it is still doing it, also noticed some knocking coming from the radiator which I assumed was because it had just emptied itself of water?
So does this mean it's probably the head gasket? Just it only had a new head gasket about 10 months ago.
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Jan 25, 2011 13:38:17 GMT
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It does sound a lot like the HG. Water does expand in the cooling system, so you will often get a little water out of the overflow if you over-fill the radiator, but that only happens when the water gets hot. Since it's overflowing after only 3 minutes, the water clearly isn't expanding due to heat, so it must be being pushed out by something else - and that something is probably gasses from the combustion chamber.
After having had the new HG, were the head bolts re-torqued? On older cars without stretch bolts this needs doing to compensate for the HG squashing down. I don't know about the Herald, but on the Imp it's recommended at 500 miles after a HG change.
If it hasn't been re-torqued yet, you might get away with re-torquing it now. After re-torquing the head, check to see if it's till pressurising the coolant - if not, then the gasket is ok, and you've got away with it. It may be worth re-torquing again in another 500 miles if this works, just as a precaution.
However, if it's been losing lots of water, the head might have got a little too hot and damaged the HG - in which case it'll need replacing. While the head if off check that the face of the head is properly flat - if it's warped a new HG will never seal properly.
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