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Since getting it up to a reasonable speed of 40MPH (good for a Mog) I noticed that the brakes left something to be desired (read - absolutely terrible - fear inducing, panic stations levels of badness). they needed investigation, bear in mind the rears are bang on, as I had them apart and adjusted up with new handbrake cables and greased pivot pins etc. - It must be the front brakes then..... well, I will come back to the brakes, as when I was out last in the Mog it decided to blow the temporarily fixed original 50's radiator - not a problem I thought I bought a spare genuine Mercedes Gagganau made radiator, it was left in its very nice wooden crate on the shelf, un opened for about 18 months (I knew the rad would go, so got it in ready to swap out). well no point in checking the radiator, its for a Mog right? Well the time came to swap it out, I open the crate, I'm all excited, and to my horror, the radiator is a different type, the hose connections are in completely the wrong place, and there is no expansion tank connection either. - turns out mine has a tropical radiator, which is deeper and different - but all the pictures on the internet show my radiator as the only type? The one I ordered in turns out to be some obscure military spec model, and subsequently, worthless (it was £250). nice crate the rad was stored in the no good brand new genuine Mercedes radiator My old knackered radiator my search began for a new 'proper' radiator. the only place offering them new - 550 euros !! ouch!!, time for a re-core then, well that's £300, so by my logic, find a second hand good one, A guy in Salisbury claimed to have a good one, so I travel for an hour and a bit to head to the yard, and I find what can be described as the most knackered radiator on sale in the UK right now!!, it had fins corroding off with a light breeze, three of the circuits had been removed and braised closed, and a chunk of fins had been removed to aide fitting a Perkins, I was a little disappointed to say the least. - 'I leave it thanks' especially as the seller was asking £100 - I guess one mas good is another's scrap only. - I wish I could have taken a photo - it would have been comical if I hadn't of ruined a brand new shirt climbing though the mountain of tat around the place! Anyway, feeling like I was going to have to part with £300 for a re-core - which was not something I wanted to do, as the radiator tanks were not brilliant anyway, figured I would have to sell one of my children and purchase a new worlds most expensive radiator, gulp! just before I did this, I thought I would go through my little black book of Unimog people I know (its very small book), and it just so happened that a chap kind of local to me was doing a Mitsi diesel swap, and was looking for a radiator with the hoses like my 'worthless new one' had - well, would I like to do a swap for his old original good rad for the new (worthless) one I had? err, let me think, err yeah, I will pop round tonight!! sorted then, good proper radiator, a couple of hours chatting about Mogs, a cup of tea, and a replacement windscreen as a bonus find, I fit the radiator and all is well again... So the cooling side of the Mog is back to where it should be, and hopefully the end of that. although I now plan an electric fan as the radiator he had has a thermostat in it (brilliant I release at least one BHP from the engine (and that's a lot to gain for a Mog) Back to the brakes... on driving the Mog out of the barn to get the coolant system bled, I cant help but notice that the inside of one of the front wheels seems to have some fluid over it that has removed and bubbled the paint up - must be brake fluid then! having spent the best part of 4 days sorting the rear brakes out and ruining what was left of health in the process, I figure the front cylinders have gone, I was right, both had gushed fluid all over the inside of the drum, soaking everything in fluid - great!! It turns out that the front brake shoes were not operating, which explains the lack of stopping power, the drums came off easily, but the pivot pins holding the tops of the shoe in place were stuck solid. I have ordered some new cylinders from truckpartshamberg.de, who are very good, and half the price of the Unimog specialists. As the truck is stuck inside the barn and as I hadn't received my cylinders for this weekend just gone, I decided to make some side panels for both sides the rear of the cab, the bit covering up under the door, its just a flat sheet, plug welded to the frame, a little bit of filler here and there, and a lick of paint to finish off......
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Keep up the good work this will be awesome when finished!
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no car, no garage, but the garage is coming oh yes!
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Carlosfandango.
Part of things
Now with added Suffix B Range Rover classic - another bucket list car acquired.
Posts: 145
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A fabulous vehicle and great progress. Really enjoyed reading this thread. I've only ever seen one of these over here & it was pretty awesome. I can only imagine how crazy it must feel on the road. Tonka Toy is a pretty good description I guess.
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1966 Fiat 1500 fast road/race conversion 1967 Porsche 912 1968 Fiat 124 Spider 1973 Range Rover Suffix B 1993 Series one Discovery 200TDI 1997 Jaguar XJ6 3.2 sport 2001 P38 Range Rover 2.5 TD Brace of Triumph bikes
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düdo
Part of things
wide as house
Posts: 770
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Good to see you're getting on with this. That was a bit of luck with the radiator. Good to have some contacts. You can get rads cheaper than 300 quid here in Germany, especially with the pound to euro rates at the moment but maybe shipping would have stung a bit? I have found quite a few cheap parts for my 406 on the small ads, local people clearing out and there's always Unimog stuff as they're quite common around here but probably more competition for whats available? My wife's uncle runs a 1965 Unimog and he paid a bloody fortune for an original winch.
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2015 12:57:41 GMT by düdo
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Jun 21, 2016 21:00:23 GMT
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I thought I had better do an update - seeing how 11 months have gone by without one! what happened in the last 11 months? the rear hub oil seals in the portal axle leaked on test drive two (after I had rebuilt the brakes) oil leaked into the drum and messed the shoes up. so it went back into the shed. now to pull the hubs off a Unimog that haven't been removed for at least 20 years but possibly never (57 years) requires some upsizing in hub pullers...... 12 ton hydraulic pullers are a minimum requirement. - will try and get a photo of them, the size is something else, I don't wish to redo them anytime soon. the brakes have been given a make-over, and I treated myself to luxury brakes and got round to fitting the remote brake booster - it couldn't go in the factory position as I have extended the cab, so I made a bracket and fitted it mid way back on the chassis. I didn't have the thread sizes, so did a bit of guessing, and made a non return valve and fittings from stock parts.... I have mounted the second LPG tank (the red one) good job really as I have used up the LPG in the first tank just bumbling round the farm, and the odd 'high speed' run down the road. I actually got it up to 50MPH on the A27 and it felt OK - read I didn't fear for my life like I thought I would. what else has been done? the wiring has been tidied up a bit. I have added wiper motors that work in tandem rather than the single ones that it came with, the motor is mounted to the replacement windscreen frame. the lights all work, I have brakes, indicators and headlights, and a properly loud horn - just in case people don't actually hear it coming - which is unlikely. It even has a rotating flashing orange beacon on the back, for driving on the motorway. It has been re registered as a historic vehicle rather than the agricultural that it was on, being a '59 model its MOT except either way, although I find that puts more pressure on you to make sure its spot on. I have done a bit more body work to tidy up a few places, still a bit to do, but I've been concentrating getting it running and driving properly instead of making it look nice. more recently I have taken delivery of a tube bender to make the 'roll cage' actually its a seat belt mounting point and something to mount a canvas roof to, rather than a true roll cage - I would build one on the outside if I were going to do a proper roll over cage. It will still have open sides, but I hope it might prevent a mass of water coming in, or the sun if we ever get any. I've never used a tube bender like this so it was a bit of a trial and error - working out where to make the centre of the bend is tricky. I made a drawing in CAD to get the measurements, but in practice it is not so easy. you can see that my first go was using the wrong size die, even though it said 2" on it, and I am using 42mm diameter tube with a 3mm wall thickness, I figured a thicker wall might help to keep its shape a little better. The actual end result is not too bad, considering. I need to make two more of the 'hoops' with the tube bender, then it a matter of installing the cross tubes and straights between them. - I need to get it in and the seat belts mounted as the kids want to go for a drive in it, and I cant take them out without the seatbelts. I am trying to get more time down the workshop, but I took a new job a year ago, and it keeps me busier than I was before, plus the family is growing. - thankfully I have no particular date when it needs to be finished, each year I say 'maybe this year' its been at least 5 years that I can recall having it, so don't feel the need to rush. - I have been working on the Volvo drifter too, in between things on the mog, I find swapping between the two is good for motivation.
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Jun 21, 2016 21:16:29 GMT
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that came out pretty good ! an old school method was welding a cap on one end, filling tube with sand, then welding a cap on the other end, then performing the bend. stops the pipe deforming.
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Jun 24, 2016 20:32:41 GMT
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So this week I have mostly been making a 'roll cage' I have a few more bits to add to it, but the main structure is there, and I now have somewhere to mount a three point seat belt for the front seats to. took it for a drive up the road again today. I'm getting use to the way it drives, it much more sedate and unrushed than my daily - (which has 4x the power of this) Brakes are OK, but I have to remember that it needs distance, so driving it down bendy rural roads with oncoming traffic in the middle of the road is not ideal! the LPG system is great, it starts on the button once it has been primed, no complaints about that, it does have a lack of power (not just because it actually lack power) but more of a pulsing of motion when flooring it. I reckon the LPG carb might need a service. I will need to do some homework on it, as the ignition timing is spot on, so I'm guessing its the fuelling. - its the only stopping me driving it in heavy traffic. I cant get up to and maintain a decent speed, slight gradients present a gradual decline in speed that I think other road users might find a little tedious. the next step is to build up the rear bed. - I have made it able to articulate a little using land rover spring hangers mounted on one side, this allows some movement in the bed, when the chassis twists, If it didn't have this the rear bed mounts would crack under the strain. I plan to add some sides to it, and a mount for the spare wheel, which will go up at the front end of the bed 'standing up'. The floor is going to be some 6x2 I found at my brothers place, it should add some well needed weight over the back wheels. on loose surfaces the rear wheels spin! I've got a lot of enthusiasm for the truck right now, so I need to make the most of it. time is a problem as always, but it is making good progress.
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RetroMat
Posted a lot
Column Shifting!
Posts: 3,442
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Jun 26, 2016 11:13:00 GMT
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Great project! I will be watching this thread with great interest. My boss purchased this at the beginning of the year which I have been slowing recommissioning around customers work!, 1964ish 404 factory fire engine. It has spent quite a few years as a mobile advert for a restaurant in france. Before that it was the standby fire engine at a hotel. So Has only done about 20000kms. It has needed plenty of work on the brakes and engine so far to get it mobile. Water pump and hoses are all still intact and fully functional siren!
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2016 11:13:44 GMT by RetroMat
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Jun 26, 2016 11:58:15 GMT
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This is my kind of not-so trailer tent! I do hope at some point I get to own a 'Mog. Fantastic things. Really enjoying the thread, keep it up.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Jun 28, 2016 19:18:36 GMT
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So today I stole a few hours and made a start on the rear bed. I needed to add in some uprights to mount the wood to, and some angle on the bed floor pan to bolt the wood boards to there. I'm using 50x25x3mm for the width ways supports, with 50x50x3 on the ends, the angle is 50x50x3 with 10mm holes every 100mm. I use a EVO rage circular mitre saw to cut the steel, it works great, one of the best things I've bought for this project. My welder is a bit tired now, sometimes the welds are OK, I need to pause in between to allow it to cool down as I'm using it on full power to get decent penetration through the steel. The plan is to use some scaffold boards for the bed, and sides. the height of the sides is two lots of scaffold boards - around 500mm this will make the sides a little higher than the tops of the doors of the cab, and allows me enough height to mount the spare wheel in the back and bolt that to the side wood, instead of laying it down, which would take up too much room. next is more welding to the rear bed, and once I have an extra pair of hands lift it up onto the back of the truck. - It was heavy enough moving it off on my own, and there's no way I'm going to try and lift it back on without help. should be able to take it to Romsey Reclamation soon to pick up some of their scaffold boards, its a nice little drive of about 3 miles from the barn to their yard, some small roads mind you! took it for spin up the lane to test the LPG mixture setting, and it seems better, but the pulsing and surging, but it is apparent even when not accelerating and my foot is off the gas pedal. - more investigation needed on this. some pictures of todays efforts
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Jun 28, 2016 20:18:02 GMT
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Regards rough running on LPG, a strip and clean of the vapouriser(s) and possibly new diaphragms could be a big help.
I've had a couple that have been used on vehicles for a few years and are full of 'heavy ends' which stop them working entirely as they should. I'd also give the LPG carb a look at, assuming it's similar to an SU then piston damper and possibly the internal spring could be in need of attention?
Otherwise, looking good.
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Jun 28, 2016 21:21:52 GMT
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Regards rough running on LPG, a strip and clean of the vapouriser(s) and possibly new diaphragms could be a big help. I've had a couple that have been used on vehicles for a few years and are full of 'heavy ends' which stop them working entirely as they should. I'd also give the LPG carb a look at, assuming it's similar to an SU then piston damper and possibly the internal spring could be in need of attention? Otherwise, looking good. Thanks for that idea because I was just reading some LPG common problems and I read the same thing. My daily '96 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.3 12v is running a bit heasitant on lpg sometimes even after I changed the filters. Need to strip and clean the vaporiser as mine uses 4 Keihin lpg injectors. Any ideas as to clean the keihin injectors?!?
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Looking at Google images I'm not sure they're something that's user serviceable in terms of cleaning.
You used to be able to get new solenoids and other rings for the older OMVL/AEB types, but it's 6 or 7 years since I last did very much with any gas stuff.
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Jun 29, 2016 16:32:24 GMT
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think i must have been asleep when you said you were going to make a crew cab pickup, thats really neat ditto for portal axles, i now know these are standard, i guess the half shafts actually turn backwards to go forwards if its gear driven, do they get much slack after all these decades ?
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Last Edit: Jun 29, 2016 16:32:45 GMT by darrenh
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Jun 29, 2016 16:58:49 GMT
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I'd put some diagonals on the B and C pillar uprights to give structural support to the cage. Is it braced to the chassis?
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Jun 29, 2016 19:10:10 GMT
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think i must have been asleep when you said you were going to make a crew cab pickup, thats really neat ditto for portal axles, i now know these are standard, i guess the half shafts actually turn backwards to go forwards if its gear driven, do they get much slack after all these decades ? There are two gear cogs in the portal end, and even after 50+ years it's as tight as you like. No backlash at all, unlike my 1998 disco 300tdi. I think the portal arrangement allows the shafts to rotate in the normal way. The axles are used on competition trials 4x4's quite a lot.
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Jun 29, 2016 19:13:03 GMT
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I'd put some diagonals on the B and C pillar uprights to give structural support to the cage. Is it braced to the chassis? I will be adding the diagonals to the rear hoop, but can't on the mid section as it sits over the seats. It's not made as a roll over cage so is only mounted to the cab structure. It's been built to allow 3 point seat belts to be installed and a roof fabrics to be pinned to it.
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Jun 29, 2016 19:23:46 GMT
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I'd put some diagonals on the B and C pillar uprights to give structural support to the cage. Is it braced to the chassis? I will be adding the diagonals to the rear hoop, but can't on the mid section as it sits over the seats. It's not made as a roll over cage so is only mounted to the cab structure. It's been built to allow 3 point seat belts to be installed and a roof fabrics to be pinned to it. Only noticed the seat position after I'd posted, a rear roof diagonal would work just as well to prevent the cage from buckling. Even in a tip on its side you would be surprised at how much a cage can move about when mounted to the shell, good sized foot plates bolted through the body to spreader plates should stop it ripping through the floor.
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Jun 30, 2016 11:50:41 GMT
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not putting words into SC's mouth but maybe using the word "roll" was misleading? i.e if its just frame for bodywork then its adequate to bolt seat belts to that "body", as long as the fame is solid mounted to the body, and that body is solidly mounted to the chassis
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